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Post by edge on Mar 9, 2015 21:56:17 GMT -5
Actually the snout should do most of the sealing! Look at a steam turbine, there is a gap all of the way from front to rear. It is about making the gasses change direction and they work against themselves. edge. PS all of the air in the straw is pressurized...that's the law ( modified answer by edge at Reply #158 )
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Post by hankinsrfls on Mar 9, 2015 22:03:42 GMT -5
Actually the snout should do most of the sealing!
Look at a steam turbine, there is a gap all of the way from front to rear. It is about making the gasses change direction and they work against themselves. edge. PS all of the air in the straw is pressurized...that's the law Most is the key word. If it don't do 100% of the sealing, then it leaks...
And I know nothing about steam turbines.
Jeff....
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Post by rambler on Mar 9, 2015 22:13:48 GMT -5
Jeff I'm disappointed. I figured a rail road guy like you would know all about steam and such
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Post by edge on Mar 9, 2015 22:18:55 GMT -5
I guess we will just have to disagree, no hard feelings.
edge.
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Post by hankinsrfls on Mar 9, 2015 22:29:35 GMT -5
Jeff I'm disappointed. I figured a rail road guy like you would know all about steam and such They quit using steam way before I was hired... along with babbit wheel bearing, cabooses, firemen. oilers, spring return cushion units and a lot of other things that I can't even think of... They have went from a 5 man train to a 2 man train and they are wanting to run them now with one man, but the union hasn't gave in yet and allowed them to do it, but it will happen sooner or later.....They are even talking about running them remotely over hundreds of miles..... all the trains on our system will be controlled from Atlanta from behind a computer.... Corporate America,,, what do we do... ??
Jeff Hankins.
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Post by hankinsrfls on Mar 9, 2015 22:31:26 GMT -5
I guess we will just have to disagree, no hard feelings. edge. I agree to disagree,,,.... we all have our own ideas..
Jeff Hankins.
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Post by rambler on Mar 9, 2015 22:31:44 GMT -5
Jeff I'm disappointed. I figured a rail road guy like you would know all about steam and such They quit using steam way before I was hired... along with babbit wheel bearing, cabooses, firemen. oilers, spring return cushion units and a lot of other things that I can't even think of... They have went from a 5 man train to a 2 man train and they are wanting to run them now with one man, but the union hasn't gave in yet and allowed them to do it, but it will happen sooner or later.....They are even talking about running them remotely over hundreds of miles..... all the trains on our system will be controlled from Atlanta from behind a computer.... Corporate America,,, what do we do... ??
Jeff Hankins.
Change with the times or get left behind.
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Post by airborneike on Mar 9, 2015 22:45:35 GMT -5
Jeff,
The straw example is a good representation...sure pressure increases but the FLOW is mostly stopped.
Mike
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Post by 7mmfreak on Mar 10, 2015 4:09:05 GMT -5
Just for the record , wasn't complaining at all was just pointing out it looked similar to HIS , funny thing when somethin works well everyone is always tryin to make it work better for there purpose . its a good lookin plu , good luck with your project . It also looks like a long NULA plug which is what I told Ike I thought would work when he first told me Luke was trying to design a new plug a year or so back. I think this type of plug works very well. My NULA is locked up tight when in battery. I've got one of Jeff's HIS coming too. I'll use Luke's plug next. All similar to one another and better than the Savage plug.
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Post by rangeball on Mar 10, 2015 8:57:39 GMT -5
Rangeball Yes you can have it retro-fitted to your barrel. I did. You just take the barrel off and send it to a "qualified" machinist . He can then thread the muzzle end to fit the new plug... And you just swap ends with it and shoot it in the other direction...no... Wait! That idea seems somewhat flawed!!! Don't try that... In reality . I posted here Bout 6weeks ago several questions about shorter barrels.... And what one would loose by going to one. Since I was already in to this barrel for close to $550 . It was a 25" pacnor #7 taper with a 5" lug of 1.250. My machinist removed about 1.85" and fit it for the new plug. At that time I also had a muzzle brake installed.. I still have enough lug to shoot safely. And I couldn't be more happy with the out come of the whole ordeal. I mad several phone call's to the "Guru's" and was told not to worry about that barrel length (23 1/4"). Even out to 500yds as far as accuracy would go. Just use a fast burning powder. But you have to ask yourself the question......is the cash better spent towards a new barrel...or on the existing one?...until I had this don't to the gun ...I never really "fell in love" with it. But thanks to Luke...AirborneIke...Earnhardt...HillBill It's all good now Drop Thanks Drop, but I have the sendero profile and am not sure there would be enough shank left after the chop job to make me comfortable.
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Post by 12ptdroptine on Mar 10, 2015 9:11:20 GMT -5
Your right . To light of a profile to crop it off Drop
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Post by onebentarrow on Mar 10, 2015 9:21:29 GMT -5
If I read this correct this plug is smaller than the savage plug so could a larger version of this plug be made and used in the savage? If not why
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Post by Deleted on Mar 10, 2015 9:23:01 GMT -5
You don't have any meat left in a savage plug barrel to rear seal/headspace with the bolt raceway measuring .700 and the savage plug threads being 11/16
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Post by rangeball on Mar 10, 2015 10:03:51 GMT -5
On the savage plug, it's the face of the snout that's doing the sealing, right?
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Post by onebentarrow on Mar 10, 2015 10:22:28 GMT -5
Ok on the savage plug remake being a no go
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Post by 12ptdroptine on Mar 10, 2015 12:25:31 GMT -5
Rangeball yes the snout on the Savage plug is the initial seal. Then the threads secondary. Luke has some plugs that have a larger snout sealing surface. That should help.. I had pretty food gas cutting on my plug....But at that time I disnt use teflon tape. Richard and many others use it very successfully.
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Post by rangeball on Mar 10, 2015 13:01:33 GMT -5
Thanks. I've always used enough wraps of white teflon to make it a good tight fit and crank the plug in pretty good. Never noticed any flame cutting, but I'm only shooting H4198 at 70gr with the 310 apb, not as fast or high a pressure as some. I do now have the .040 bushing and the 7/32 PFC. If I ever get a different barrel I'd go with one of these new plugs but don't feel like I'm missing anything at the moment. Of course Luke's failure was with this same load and bullet, but with a fluted barrel and a possible double load, so who knows.
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Post by rambler on Mar 10, 2015 13:07:34 GMT -5
Thanks. I've always used enough wraps of white teflon to make it a good tight fit and crank the plug in pretty good. Never noticed any flame cutting, but I'm only shooting H4198 at 70gr with the 310 apb, not as fast or high a pressure as some. I do now have the .040 bushing and the 7/32 PFC. If I ever get a different barrel I'd go with one of these new plugs but don't feel like I'm missing anything at the moment. Of course Luke's failure was with this same load and bullet, but with a fluted barrel and a possible double load, so who knows. Try the yellow variety of Teflon tape.
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Post by rangeball on Mar 10, 2015 13:41:25 GMT -5
I've been keeping an eye out for it but haven't found it locally and always seem to forget when in a big box hardware store out of town.
Is there an advantage to the yellow over a couple wraps of white to get to the same thickness?
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Post by rambler on Mar 10, 2015 13:51:09 GMT -5
I've been keeping an eye out for it but haven't found it locally and always seem to forget when in a big box hardware store out of town. Is there an advantage to the yellow over a couple wraps of white to get to the same thickness? What I do know about the yellow variety is that besides it being the recommended type here it is for natural gas applications.
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Post by rangeball on Mar 10, 2015 14:04:51 GMT -5
That's all I know about it too I figured it was mostly related to it being the right thickness so not needing as many wraps, and since I couldn't find it just used more of the white. Seems to work just fine, but if I'm missing another reason why I should be using yellow I'm all ears.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 10, 2015 14:27:27 GMT -5
Yellow tape (speaking from experience with a Pacnor) is good for the first couple range trips but once everything gets a little dirty inside the white works fine IMO.
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Post by hankinsrfls on Mar 10, 2015 14:45:09 GMT -5
Rangeball yes the snout on the Savage plug is the initial seal. Then the threads secondary. Luke has some plugs that have a larger snout sealing surface. That should help.. I had pretty food gas cutting on my plug....But at that time I disnt use teflon tape. Richard and many others use it very successfully. The snout on the savage plug is the only seal,,,, the threads have absolutely no sealing ability.. Non. Notta nary teeny tiny bit... Zilch, zero. The shoulder on the rear sealing plugs is the only seal on that design. The threads only force the snout/shoulder against the adjacent surface.. You can apply much more pressure using fine threads than you can using corse threads with the same amount of torque. Plus you will have a stronger bolt/plug because the threads are not cut as deep on a fine thread vrs a corse thread.. Plus a fine thread will not come loose as easy as a corse thread will... Jeff Hankins...
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Post by hankinsrfls on Mar 10, 2015 14:52:20 GMT -5
That's all I know about it too I figured it was mostly related to it being the right thickness so not needing as many wraps, and since I couldn't find it just used more of the white. Seems to work just fine, but if I'm missing another reason why I should be using yellow I'm all ears. The white tape has been around and use for years and years.. I know I remember putting it on some pipes 25 years ago and it worked fine then and will still work fine today.. If white tape is what you got then I'd say use it without worry. If yellow is what you got use it.. Just make sure you don't get so much on that you can't tighten your plug to the bottom.. P.S. I have never used tape of any kind to seal my breech plugs.. On a rear sealing shouldered plug I don't feel it necessary to apply any tape.. Jeff Hankins...
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Post by rangeball on Mar 10, 2015 15:12:01 GMT -5
Jeff, I apply the tape more for anti-seizing than sealing. Do you use anti-seal on your plugs at all?
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Post by edge on Mar 10, 2015 15:19:11 GMT -5
The threads are an effective seal except in someones mind and to say they do nothing is ridiculous!
edge.
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Post by hankinsrfls on Mar 10, 2015 15:21:13 GMT -5
Jeff, I apply the tape more for anti-seizing than sealing. Do you use anti-seal on your plugs at all? I do use white lithium grease.. Jeff Hankins
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Post by hankinsrfls on Mar 10, 2015 15:30:35 GMT -5
The threads are an effective seal except in someones mind and to say they do nothing is ridiculous! edge. The threads have NO sealing ability at all.. I am surprised that you would even think that they do.. Totally amazing.. You can continue to believe in your theory but it is incorrect. We can go on and on about this like we do over what primer is best, I know for a fact you can not make a seal of any kind with a machine thread... With out the snout or shoulder on these plugs they will leak.. Period... But what do I know,, Jeff Hankins..
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Post by edge on Mar 10, 2015 16:53:58 GMT -5
... But what do I know,, Jeff Hankins.. Not much apparently!
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Post by Deleted on Mar 10, 2015 17:00:33 GMT -5
Agree to disagree didn't last long!! The new plug definitely seals and I would bet my dollars that Luke's plug seals much easier and better at high pressure than the front seal/headspacing design.
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