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Post by alphaburnt on Feb 3, 2011 23:25:58 GMT -5
Can you use JB Weld, MarineTex or other epoxies designed for other uses to bed your action to your stock? Anyone have any favorites if this is the case?
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Post by killitgrillit on Feb 4, 2011 0:20:00 GMT -5
I use Devcon liquid steel and johnson's paste wax as a release agent
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Post by rossman40 on Feb 4, 2011 0:33:29 GMT -5
Myself I use Devcon aluminum putty (10610) but the smallest package is 1lb which can easily do 4 rifles. Some guys like the steel putty and there are some tricks when using Devcon. Plus the Devcon is milspec with a data sheet you can take to the bank.
Maybe my second choice would be Marine-tex (grey) which you can get in a 2oz package but 2oz is cutting in close on a Savage.
Some guys have used JB Weld with good results but when I have used it in other applications and was not impressed, it seems a bit rubbery.
There are a bunch of other bedding compounds but when you get to 10ML recoil levels you have to watch for cracking.
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Post by alphaburnt on Feb 4, 2011 1:30:28 GMT -5
Re Devcon, what are the tricks, if you dont mind me asking?
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Post by pposey on Feb 4, 2011 6:04:05 GMT -5
My ml2 has been full lenght JB weld bedded for years with no problems
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Post by pposey on Feb 4, 2011 6:04:47 GMT -5
I may have mixed it a little strong but it is for sure not rubbery
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Post by Deleted on Feb 4, 2011 10:01:18 GMT -5
I've used Accraglass,Devcon, Miles Gilbert, and the last two have been with JB Weld.....The JB is working as good as the rest.
Zen
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Post by Chris Champion on Feb 4, 2011 15:27:38 GMT -5
JB Weld is what RB used on mine.
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Post by rossman40 on Feb 4, 2011 16:56:48 GMT -5
I like to weigh out the mix, 9:1 ratio so I usually mix 90 grams of resin and 10 grams of hardener on a waxed paper plate. With Devcon it likes heat and hates the cold. If it is a bit stiff when mixing and during application you can heat it up a bit with a hair dryer to get it up to around 90-100°. Do not get it too hot or it will set up in about 5 minutes. If your stock/action is cool it will stiffen so you want to keep the pieces warm if your working in a unheated shop. If the temp is below 55° it will take forever to set up. If you read the directions it reaches max hardness by being 'baked" at 200° after giving it a hour or two to set up. 200° is a bit too much for the stock but after I put the pieces together I'll try to keep it at around 80-90° for two hours and then pump the heat up to around 140°, my "oven" is just a cardboard box with a small ceramic heater or just placed on a furnace duct.
Another trick to "avoid the voids" (air bubbles), is to "paint" some Devcon onto the action. Also look for "spooge", if you drop the action in the stock and nothing spooges out, you didn't have enough bedding material. Also remember that blue tape and kiwi neutral is your friends. If you do not want Devcon to stick to it you better have tape or kiwi on it, I even put kiwi on the tape. On the action you want a thin coat of kiwi, if you can see it then it is probly too thick. You want to clean-up before it sets up, scrape off as much spooge as you can before it hardens. Avoid using chemicals to clean up with till it sets.
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Post by killitgrillit on Feb 4, 2011 17:28:00 GMT -5
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Post by alphaburnt on Feb 4, 2011 20:04:03 GMT -5
Great post w pics! Thanks guys, I am getting closer to doing it. That Devcon looks great.
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Post by cuda on Feb 5, 2011 19:57:44 GMT -5
What is the best to fill the mag hole with? Wood, plastic or bedding or fiberboard or what?
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Post by rick59 on Feb 5, 2011 20:01:44 GMT -5
What is the best to fill the mag hole with? Wood, plastic or bedding or fiberboard or what? |
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Post by fishhawk on Feb 5, 2011 20:05:48 GMT -5
I use a piece of 1x1 poplar epoxied in the magwell.
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Post by jims on Feb 5, 2011 20:16:01 GMT -5
I used a piece of hardwood surrounded by Accugel as I recall.
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Post by alphaburnt on Feb 5, 2011 20:47:09 GMT -5
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Post by dannoboone on Feb 5, 2011 21:08:04 GMT -5
Richard Franklin became my stock bedding mentor a long time
ago. ;D
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Post by rick59 on Feb 5, 2011 21:11:59 GMT -5
What is the best to fill the mag hole with? Wood, plastic or bedding or fiberboard or what? Sorry about that, I guess I didn't read the question right. Like the others say just glue a piece of wood in there to take up the space. The plumbers putty works for filling holes in the action and such that you don't want your bedding compound to get into. |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 5, 2011 22:03:03 GMT -5
Not planning on adding a third pillar I filled my blind mag with styrofoam....Kept it down to allow for 1/4" bedding material.
Zen
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Post by moto357 on Feb 6, 2011 1:52:04 GMT -5
epoxied in a piece of purpleheart wood.. lot harder than the avg hardwood. doubt its needed but i thought it was a cool piece of scrap wood to throw in the hole  |
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Post by youp50 on Feb 6, 2011 8:43:17 GMT -5
I had some aluminum plate laying around. Cut it to fit and drilled a few holes for the compound to ooze through and lock the laminate together. It kept open the third pillar option.
I liked it so much that I cut the 'tupperware' stock apart to recycle it into the magazine well in the Boyds.
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Post by pposey on Feb 7, 2011 13:36:09 GMT -5
I used a piece of stanless tubing full of JB,,, really stiffined up the stock
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Post by Chris Champion on Feb 8, 2011 18:57:20 GMT -5
I cut an oak block so it would be a snug fit in the corners of the mag well but left room along the sides then used Acraglass to lock it in. The Acraglass is nice because it poors into the mag well around the block. I went with a snug fit in the corners so the block wouldn't "float" up with the acraglass. I left it about 1/8" below the level of the factory stock inletting so RB had room to bed over it.
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Post by cuda on Feb 8, 2011 23:52:48 GMT -5
Thanks for the ideas on what to use. Now I just need to get down to doing it and bed action too. So by filling the mag well it stiffens up the stock. That should help a lot on group size nice winter projected. Thanks!
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Post by rossman40 on Feb 9, 2011 2:22:41 GMT -5
I bought a blank of stock laminate and can sell you a chunk to fit the magwell for a few bucks. I use it because it is the same as the stock and pretty tough. Using it is a bit better then other regular woods, lighter then most hardwoods and it should expand and contract the same as the factory laminate stock.
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