ordered my pacnor today but have ???s

[dennis31]

Ordered my 45 Pacnor today but a little concerned. what i ordered
DD SuperMatch SS Matte 26"
.458 8L/G 1:22 11DEG TAR CROWN save drop
Modified Varmit contour 4.1lbs
A 1.117
B .950
C .875
D 3
E 5.5
G 26
was told there was 2 shanks a small {1.057"} and large {1.117} when i measured the OD of my savage barrel at the nut i get 1.118. I was told they havent made a barrel for the large shank yet. DO I HAVE THE ONLY ONE. serial #M038XXX

[Richard]

You just answered your own question! The small is 1.059. You are only off by .001" so it appears you have the large one. I have not personally run across ofy of these in the MLII.
Richard

[fishhawk]

Wasn't the Cabelas non-smokeless version large shank?

[dennis31]

Dont know, i picked up mine from natches a few months ago, i just havent heard of the 2 different sizes before.

[pposey]

I would send the barrel nut to pacnor,,,,,,,,,, just to be on the safe side

[dans]

+1 pposey that's a great idea!

[dennis31]

Did a little research and from different forums it seems they came out with the large shank sometime around 2007. Savage considered their large shank their "Target Action". The 2 sizes are
STD shank 1.060 savage
LRG shank 1.120 savage
One of the guys on a benchrest forum claimed they were interchangeable.
Std vs. Large shank
Savage current makes two size.

Standard Shanks - 1.060 x 20tpi
Large Shanks - 1.120 x 20tpi

They are completely interchangeable between actions with that shank size. You just set the headspace you need, tighten the barrel nut, and start shooting. I have 7 barrels and two actions (both std shank) and switch barrels routinely in less than 15 minutes without pulling the scope (No I don't use the screw driver trick someone posted, but I see no problem with it as long as the headspace is correct). I am not a gunsmith and as long as your know how to use a go-gauge correct it is a snap. I don't think it is necessary to torque the barrel nut back down with more than 50 ftlbs. When I first started doing this I routine would keeping re-checking the headspace with gauges, but it never changed even after 1000s of rounds. I even put a small alignment mark on the action and barrel to visually verify headspace within a turn of the barrel.

The ability to buy a premium pre-fit barrel, like a Shilen, for less than $300 ready to screw on was just too appealing for me. I own a couple of blue-printed M700 actions that shoot really good. The Savages will hold their own with them. I am afraid to try a custom action because then I might think everything else feels like junk..... I know they sure feel smooth. Bolt lift is my only compliant about my Savages. Which is a killer in the BR world..... so they tell me.

Luck, tiny
Last edited by tiny68; 06-24-2008 at 11:05 AM.
benchrest.com/showthread.php?53473-Savage

PPosey, I will call Pacnor and ask if they want me to send the barrel nut. Thanks

[Richard]

Dennis...........After having shot nothing but factory rifles for years (Rem's, Savages, Marlins etc.) My friend Bill bought a used custom benchrest rifle built by Jim Borden. It had a Stolle Teddy action with a Shilen barrel, Jewel trigger McMillan Edge stock........Full custom. Now he is spoiled ;D He wants another custom. He says it just works so smooth...............! And its all my fault I got him and Herman into the 600/1000 yd. benchrest game and they are both hooked! ;D
Richard

[Jon]

There is a bolt lift kit. That may help? But nothing beats a custom wish I could aford one.

[dennis31]

Richard, sometimes you just need someone to show you the way. If it wasnt for this board and all the work yourself and other guys do i probably would have just stuck with the stock savage as it is plenty accurate for the hunting i do. But after all the reading about the 45s and the sub MOA groups , i just had to try one for myself. So i guess i can blame you too.

Dennis

[rossman40]

I have a SS thumbhole laminate 10ML-II on the bench right now with a M038XXX SN and it is large shank barrel along with the 4.40" action screw spacing and a jeweled bolt.

When the 10ML-I came out they used the same barrel thread as the 210 shotgun, 1.120 x 20tpi. The barrel nut was already in inventory and the tooling was on hand. Savages thinking was that the only barrel that was available was a shotgun barrel so therefore it was not convertible to shoot centerfire and therefore qualified as a non-4473 firearm and the ATF bought it. Then somebody (rumors say it was Tony Knight) ran to the ATF saying all you had to do was thread a barrel blank and you could shoot centerfire. Then the ATF reversed it's decision but Savage was granted a temporary exception. That is why they came up with the 10ML-II.

A few years later (2002) Savage started chambering the 110 for the Remington Ultra Mag (RUM) and the Winchester Short Mag (WSM). Because of the large case they started cracking barrel nuts. So for the next production run (2003) those chamberings plus Remingtons Short Action Ultra Mag (SAUM) used the what is now called the large shank barrel. The same 1.120 x 20tpi they used for the 10ML-I and 210, again the barrel nut was already in inventory and the tooling was on hand. A few years later the target action was also available with the large shank.

Now the Cabelas edition came out and I think to show Cabelas it just wasn't a relabeled 10ML-II they made several changes. They used the 4.40" centerfeed mag action screw spacing (which Savage switched the CFs to in 2006), they used the new design centerfire stock with their new PAD recoil pad and used a large shank barrel. The first two of these mods were more inline with CF production and the last was a attempt I think to put more meat on the barrel. So the 2010 production run of 10ML-IIs got the same mods.

Now Pacnor may not have done any MLs with the large shank but I'm sure they have done CFs.

As far as bolt lift Fred at SSS can work over the bolt and actually change the timing to reduce the amount of effort to open the bolt. You still have to remember that the Savage, like most modern bolt actions, is a "cock on opening" set-up.

[dennis31]

Thanks Jon and Rossman, Ill look into that bolt kit. I also found out the easiest way to identify which shank you have is by the length of the barrel nut.

5/8" = LARGE Shank
7/8" = STD Shank

[Jon]

Dennis. You will see a step in the barrel right in front of the barrel nut.

Rossman. Just a question does the new ml2 that Randy is selling have the large or small shank? I'm thinking large but just checking I thought all the new ml2's that had the large shank were made for b/p only?
Jon
Jon

[dennis31]

Jon,

i havent bought the wrench yet, so im assuming the step is under the barrel nut, because it is not stepped when coming out of the barrel nut.

gmb,

I dont think its a big deal, STD or large shank you just want to get the right thread on the barrel for your action. By knowing what shank you have will also have a different size blank diameter which will change the weight of the barrel using the contour and weight calculator. I guess i thought there were more of the conversions out there and was taken by surprise when told they havent made one for the large shank yet.
Dennis

[rossman40]

The original CF large shank barrels had a step just in front of the barrel nut and from there the barrel contour was the same as a small shank. The newer large shank 10ML barrels you do not see the step. The best way is just to measure right in front of the barrel nut, for a large shank it should be real close to 1.120".

As far as switching to a .45 the only difference is the barrel shank thread and there should be a slight bump in barrel contour. I even thought that if I converted to .45 I would convert my action to large shank threads just to get some more meat on the barrel in the critical area (I know it is only a 1/16").

Yes the large shank barrel nuts that are longer but I have also seen shorter then regular nuts on newer large shank CFs so I wonder if all the new barrel nuts are longer. Savage was doing the "cosmetic thing", the Cabelas model 10ML and some models of CFs even have smooth barrel nuts that take a special wrench to remove. I do not know if on the Cabelas model if it was to deter changing barrels or just cosmetics.

[bob64]

I am also thinking about a 45 Pacnor. So, I measured my 50 cal SS infront of the barrel nut and I get 1.045" with a 7/8" long barrel nut. Is there another size shank out there or do I need to take the nut off to get a true measurement?
(used Brown and Sharpe Tri Cal)