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Post by easttnhunter on Oct 26, 2010 19:48:16 GMT -5
I have shot my new ML-II for a while now and was going to replace the vent liner. From the beginning I followed all instructions about firing a few times and breaking the vent liner and breech plug loose and retightening, but now the plug will come out just fine, but the vent liner is stuck and stripping out my allen wrench, slightly rounding the screw flats. This is even after letting it soak in penetrating oil overnight. Any suggestions?
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Post by tdillinger on Oct 26, 2010 19:53:52 GMT -5
Same thing happened to me. buy a new breech plug from Savage with 3/8 hex head. use anti goop on the vent liver to include the haed and threads.
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Post by gunny on Oct 26, 2010 20:20:25 GMT -5
Maybe try freezing overnight in your freezer may or may not work,apply heat with heat gun may or may not work .Dremel tool a slot in vent ,clamp between 2 pieces of wood in vice and try flat blade driver, drill a hole in vent and use a screw extractor, thats what i would do before buying a new plug. gunny
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Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Oct 26, 2010 20:27:39 GMT -5
drill and use an ezout
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Post by smokeless77 on Oct 26, 2010 21:01:47 GMT -5
Torx bit with a impact driver
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Post by deadon on Oct 26, 2010 21:29:08 GMT -5
Torx bit with a impact driver I soaked mine overnight in shooters choice,do not know it that was necessary. Took a hammer and grove an oversize torx bit in, Attached the ratchet and Bingo she came loose, Rusty
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Post by Richard on Oct 26, 2010 22:24:17 GMT -5
Use the torx bit as was mentioned but first apply some heat to the plug in the area of the vent threads. A Benz-O-Matic torch. You can heat it pretty hot. Obviously you do not want to get it red! Although I don't think that torch can do it, especially when being held in a vise. Just put the torch on it for a good 30 sec. or so. This will expand the plug away from the vents threads. Works just about every time. Richard
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Post by youp50 on Oct 27, 2010 5:06:06 GMT -5
Hard to beat heat and shock for any stuck metal. Sometimes it helps to heat more than once. Driving in a torx bit gives the shock.
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Post by screwbolts on Oct 27, 2010 6:46:23 GMT -5
Heat is truly a great thing for helping in the removal of stuck stubborn items. The problem with just heat is the item you are heating to enlarge will actually shrink in the natural unassisted cooling process. After applying your heat instantly cool the object with water, even an old handy dish soap bottle will work well to apply the cooling water. This will shock cool the item and also lock it into the larger size that the heat expanded it to. This is a common practice from the Old Rail Road employees.
Those that weld will be able to testify that after you run a bead of weld the cooling process of the weld joint will actually draw the metal so that some items will actually curve.
Food for thought,
Ken
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Post by pposey on Oct 27, 2010 7:34:54 GMT -5
torx bit and heat, has worked every time for me,
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Post by mike3132 on Oct 28, 2010 8:57:36 GMT -5
Ive taken many stuck ventliners out using a hand held propane torch and two pieces of wood in a vise. Put the breech plug threads in the wood and clamp them in the vise. The wood protects the threads.
Use the propane torch to heat up the breech plug until you see a little smoke come off but be careful and don't heat it up too much or red hot.
Use the allen wrench or torq X bit if the ventliner hole is stripped and the ventliner turns right out. Mike
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Post by fishhawk on Oct 28, 2010 9:13:50 GMT -5
Last resort to save a breech plug is to tig or mig weld a nut to the vent liner. It gives something to put a wrench on and the heat from welding helps. Those with a recessed vent like me make welding nearly impossible. A local pawn shop brings me muzzle loaders that they take in with frozen/stripped breech plugs and the welder is usually the answer for them.
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Post by smokepole50 on Oct 28, 2010 22:00:42 GMT -5
I have never had to remove a stuck vent liner but I do work with allen wrenches every day. Some allen wrenchs have a radius on the bottom. If you cut, grind or file this off you can get a better bite on the screw and stand less of a chance of rounding the flats off. SS parts have a bad habit of gauling when they get heated or if they are tightened to tight, I see this all the time. I use molylube spray for the vacuum systems I work on but you can by it in a oil based paste as well or just use anti-sieze found at your auto parts store. I also like Kroil oil as a penetrating oil, it works wonders on cleaning rifles and loosening screws, even very rusted ones.
Smokepole50
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Post by rbinar on Oct 29, 2010 14:01:04 GMT -5
Last resort to save a breech plug is to tig or mig weld a nut to the vent liner. It gives something to put a wrench on and the heat from welding helps. Those with a recessed vent like me make welding nearly impossible. A local pawn shop brings me muzzle loaders that they take in with frozen/stripped breech plugs and the welder is usually the answer for them. Well that might work but it is far from a last resort. I would never remove a liner in this manner. After all you need only take a 5/32 drill bit and come from the primer end of the plug. Most likely you will rotate it out since coming from the primer end turning force will try to loosen the screw. In the event you drill all the way through the threads are easily cleaned out with a 10-32 tap. Since Savage ended production today I'm no longer bound by an agreement to be silent. So send it to me if you like and I'll extract it the right way. That in no way implies I want to do a bunch of gun work. It simply means I can do a few things without regard to previous obligations.
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Post by rangeball on Oct 29, 2010 14:09:33 GMT -5
Since Savage ended production today I'm no longer bound by an agreement to be silent... It simply means I can do a few things without regard to previous obligations. Like tell us a story? I understand if you'd rather not, but I'm sure like me many here are very interested in hearing it if you can share.
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Post by rbinar on Oct 30, 2010 5:41:23 GMT -5
Since Savage ended production today I'm no longer bound by an agreement to be silent... It simply means I can do a few things without regard to previous obligations. Like tell us a story? I understand if you'd rather not, but I'm sure like me many here are very interested in hearing it if you can share. Tell you a story? Dang straight I'll tell you a story. It began about 4 years ago, and like every story about the 10ML it had to do with the propellant, or as we like to say the powder. Many realized that the main advantage the 10ML was offering (from a factory point of view) was ease of use. That is, no nasty clean up. They advertised but only slightly highlighted the extra energy possible. So sources started to market what I call clean black powder. Today there are at least 4 competitors who are selling a so called clean "substitute" for BP. It is one of these folks that I'm familiar with closely. The exact details are still something I would not want to be complete public knowledge. However I think you can see enough to get a picture. As for current events the stop in Savage production was also predictable. That's because some of these new propellants not only cleaned much like smokeless that shot like it as well. That's where economics takes over. The top of the line Savage is now priced at nearly $800. You have to go to the runt of the litter to get down below $700. While others have fairly pricey guns the top liner seldom reaches the $600 level. Add the price list to the technology and you can see why the average hunter says "why should I go out $700 to $800 on a rifle when I can give $199 to $350 for another that seems (least on paper) to be it's equal or darn well near it? So some time back it seemed time to cut the losses and take the best deal available. Not that I think smokeless shooting will end or even diminish. What is likely to happen is bargain hunters will always move toward the low cost export, no matter how counter intuitive that sounds to me. It's like wanting the lowest paid doctor to do your open heart surgery. Under these circumstance smokeless shooting will be more custom design upper end weapons. That's the way they started and the way of their likely legacy. Did I type dang and darn in the same post?
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Post by whyohe on Oct 30, 2010 13:08:48 GMT -5
Rb and range ball, i think this would be good in another thread. I'm sure it will generate alot of responces.
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Post by bigmoose on Oct 30, 2010 14:32:18 GMT -5
Rick, My Ball rifle was 700.00, The only true bargain, was when you were building rifles, my RB Special remain super accurate, bet it could out shot any center fire .45 caliber rifle. Its a deadly dime killer.
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