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Post by jims on Sept 23, 2014 9:20:55 GMT -5
Well done.
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Post by jims on Sept 23, 2014 9:22:01 GMT -5
Rambler: You can hunt after dark, it just may not be legal.
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Post by rambler on Sept 23, 2014 9:26:50 GMT -5
it's all legal till you get caught.... I tend to stay legal these days
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Post by mtj555 on Sept 23, 2014 12:26:19 GMT -5
Keith Looks good, I can't wait to see it in person. Maybe you need to drop a big buck in TN this year with it.
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Post by 7mmfreak on Sept 23, 2014 12:33:34 GMT -5
Sweet Gum tree of Death?
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Post by Deleted on Sept 23, 2014 12:48:42 GMT -5
The Green Beanie is finished. Bullets sized in the dual bushing smooth/full form die: 7mm, I shot the new large flame channel and .040 bushing yesterday with the 250 SST and all I can say is "YES!" They were sized loose enough I could almost let the ramrod push the bullet down and straight 73 grains 4198 ignited every time pushing them at 2735 f/s (average) out of a 25" McRem 45 cal. @ 200 yards I pulled a shot but if I wouldn't have I would have had all three touching but I still ended up with just under an inch group. Reason I copied your bullet photo is because I believe the full form sized SST might shoot better and create just a touch more f/s. Along with for sure ignition at cold temps but won't know for sure until I get 0° temps. I'm looking forward to your range reports.
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Post by mtj555 on Sept 23, 2014 12:53:33 GMT -5
You are on my extremely small list of friends who I would let hunt in the Sweet Gum Tree of Death. That location is highly classified.
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Post by 7mmfreak on Sept 23, 2014 13:26:24 GMT -5
You deserve that tree this fall. I'll take another spot.
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Post by kash913 on Sept 23, 2014 19:30:10 GMT -5
7mm absolutely beautiful gun well done
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Post by 7mmfreak on Sept 23, 2014 19:45:44 GMT -5
Thanks, kash. It isn't a Swinglock but it was a fun project. I nearly pulled the trigger on buying one of Tom's guns a few years ago in Iraq. Probably good thing I didn't since I can't leave anything the way I get it. Tom would likely puke if he saw me re-shaping and painting one of his fine stocks. I might even feel bad about it.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 23, 2014 19:59:35 GMT -5
7mmfreak, thanks so much for sharing that tutorial with us. That's cool as heck! Looks great!
(can I vote 2 times for this to be a sticky?)
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Post by kash913 on Sept 23, 2014 20:16:08 GMT -5
I love that stock with the swivels and cheekpiece. Where did you get the stock. I start to gather parts around for .458 build I have a 30 inch Krieger barrel and Pierce Precision action haven't decided who I'm gonna have to do the work but I'm sure it'll be someone on the board. How did you decide on barrel length.
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Post by 7mmfreak on Sept 23, 2014 20:16:59 GMT -5
Thanks, Josh. I got to learn some new things. I hope we all got to see something new.
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Post by 7mmfreak on Sept 23, 2014 20:59:30 GMT -5
Kash,
The stock is a Boyd's Tacticool that started out as textured black. It is cheaper to get them standard length of pull (14" at Boyd's but a bit long for me at 5'9) and painted than it is to get them at your LOP and unfinished. It is just a little tough for me to pay more for less finished when I know for a fact I can buy from McMillan and pay for the level of finish I desire. I also wasn't sure how into the SML I was going to be when I planned this build (all I had when I started ordering parts last year was a NULA and had played with a stock ML-II that a friend owns) so I kept a pretty strict budget so I could put money into building center-fire match and long range hunting rifles exactly how I wanted them since I know I love those.
Turns out I like the SML and will do another one with the center-fire action and build it like the rest of my guns. I might even spring for one of Tom's and force myself to just play with making bullets instead of compulsively reworking a Swinglock (I know that is presumptuous). This one needed worked over though to make that Tacticool feel like I am used to in a vertical gripped stock. I had to make the Kydex cheekpiece to get the height I needed; never made one before since I normally order them integral to the stock. The push-button inserts were a new task for me:I usually order them pre-installed by McMillan. I just decided that since I had the stock (bought it because I like the one my wife got me for my rimfire trainer) I was going to make it work.
All the metal work was done for me and it is well executed. I had to send the barrel back to McGowen because there was a tight spot I needed lapped out. As long as the barrel shakes out I think this rig will do well.
The barrel length was an educated guess based on how much I thought I needed to achieve the ballistics I wanted and experience with building guns in the past and how they handle. I forget who I explained it to on here but I have a barrel wall thickness rule I follow: no thinner than .158" at the muzzle and no thicker than .183". That is for a gun with a sporter type barrel that you want to handle well. While it is not scientific I came up with it over a number of years trying to do everything from a bantam 700Ti 7mm-08 Improved to a normal sporter in .350 Rem Mag to a Beanfield (90's retro) .280 Improved 40°. Normally somewhere between 23" and 25" will balance out properly if you keep in mind where you are adding weight elsewhere. In this case I chose a sporter contour typical (but lengthened the shank) for a .458 instead of the normal Sendero type contour most guys here use. If you go long, heavy, or both building a gun that balances goes out the window. I tend to hunt foot mobile, other guys hunt from stands. Right tool for the job.
Sounds like you are off to a good start on your next build. I almost bought a Pierce tube-gun action about a month back for a prone match rifle in an Eliseo chassis. I expect that action and barrel will make a top notch build. Put it in a well bedded, quality stock and I'm sure you will have one that rivals your Swinglock.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 23, 2014 21:11:56 GMT -5
Very well Done...sticky qualified post IMO also....
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Post by Typical171 on Sept 23, 2014 21:19:36 GMT -5
Great post and fine work you did there. Does your powder/bullet funnel grip the FF bullet so it can be indexed to the lands through the muzzle brake?
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Post by 7mmfreak on Sept 23, 2014 21:26:19 GMT -5
....haven't decided who I'm gonna have to do the work but I'm sure it'll be someone on the board. I'm not certain of who all has FFLs on this board but Hankins is likely your only real choice if you build on a CF. This is based on my conversations with some of the better knowns on here when I first came on board and wanted a build done; they were in the same boat as me, no lathe and no FFL. I know there are some guys out there like Shurley Bros, etc. but I don't dig those ignition systems and I refuse to pay that kind of money for a Remington based build because when it is all said and done it is a used Remington. I do like their version of a laminate but Alex at Masterclass and Joel at Russo both turn out awesome hardwood laminates in stocks with good ergonomics. Good luck, I'll look forward to seeing that one.
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Post by 7mmfreak on Sept 23, 2014 21:28:28 GMT -5
Great post and fine work you did there. Does your powder/bullet funnel grip the FF bullet so it can be indexed to the lands through the muzzle brake? Thanks and yes, it does.
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Post by lwh723 on Sept 23, 2014 22:25:01 GMT -5
Great post... What did you use for bedding compound? Sorry if I missed it in there somewhere.
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Post by 7mmfreak on Sept 24, 2014 6:33:07 GMT -5
Luke,
I bedded this one with Pro Bed 2000 because I had quite a lot left over from a lever gun project and where I repaired a walnut veneered desk for my wife. I knew I was going to full length bed it to fill the barrel channel (I normally use light weight Bondo but I was trying to stiffen this one up and add a little forward weight) and Devcon is too expensive and heavy for that. I used Devcon once on a Savage 210F slug gun build in a McMillan stock and while it worked I decided I would never use Devcon for that again.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2014 10:10:06 GMT -5
Very nice work and post. You have made a tacticool, cool!!
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Post by 7mmfreak on Sept 24, 2014 11:20:25 GMT -5
Thanks OG. I think the Tacticool has a lot of potential for guys looking for a stock.
After Kash's question about how I chose barrel length/weight and my reply about balance I went back to my gun room this morning and threaded on the muzzlebrake just to see how much change in balance it made. We aren't talking about a perception as there is none with that kind of change; a suppressor yes, a brake no. That said that brake is heavy compared to a contoured radial brake. I just needed to satisfy curiosity. I originally posted this thing balances 1/3" behind the front action screw; which it does with scope and thread protector. By removing the thread protector and adding the brake it shifted the balance point to 1/4" ahead of the front action screw so I guess this thing came out just about perfect in that regard. Either way, off hand it feels really good; especially for a 12# gun.
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Post by airborneike on Sept 24, 2014 21:45:56 GMT -5
Very well done 7mmfreak, can only imagine the amount of work that went into the stock as well as making the post.
This is good reference material that will certainly help others who want to give it a try.
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Post by 7mmfreak on Sept 25, 2014 8:06:01 GMT -5
Thanks Ike, I don't know how much time went into the metal and I didn't keep track of time on the stock as I drug it out over several weeks due to my school break. Maybe I will do this again with my rimfire trainer and time it. Unfortunately, that trainer no longer feels as good as it did before I re-worked this one. Besides, I have been challenged to paint a Kryptek pattern by one of my guys. He says nobody does Multi-Cam anymore, it's so 2012. I have a piece of black Kydex with the POW/MIA logo on it so I may paint that stock in Kryptek TyphonMy guess is actual work time on the stock was in the neighborhood of 6-8 hours but wait time (heating kydex, epoxy curing, paint drying, etc.) probably would have made this a three day job if I did this work full time. Lots of it can be done concurrently; I worked on the cheekpiece, drew stencils, etc. while other things dried and cured. I'm not telling you anything you don't know. All I know is it was a lot less work than carving maple into a full stock flinter.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 3, 2014 8:17:16 GMT -5
On a laminate stock with multiple colors, can a guy remove the matte or gloss finish to expose the wood, and put a "stain" on it to make the exposed laminated wood darker?
Will the exposed laminated wood soak up a stain to make it darker?
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Post by 7mmfreak on Oct 3, 2014 8:50:40 GMT -5
On a laminate stock with multiple colors, can a guy remove the matte or gloss finish to expose the wood, and put a "stain" on it to make the exposed laminated wood darker? Will the exposed laminated wood soak up a stain to make it darker? I don't know but I am about to do the same conversion on my rimfire trainer Tacticool. I am staining my new reloading bench this weekend so I'll strip part of that stock and see if it takes the stain.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 3, 2014 14:36:02 GMT -5
What's the best way to remove the matte finish sealant on a multicolored laminate stock?
A light sanding?
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Post by 7mmfreak on Oct 3, 2014 14:39:15 GMT -5
Sand it or use a stripper. I've done both. Either requires sanding at some point.
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Post by deadeye on Oct 3, 2014 22:21:05 GMT -5
7mm- very fine work & the camaraderie of friends around you!
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Post by hankinsrfls on Oct 3, 2014 23:16:24 GMT -5
On a laminate stock with multiple colors, can a guy remove the matte or gloss finish to expose the wood, and put a "stain" on it to make the exposed laminated wood darker? Will the exposed laminated wood soak up a stain to make it darker? I don't know but I am about to do the same conversion on my rimfire trainer Tacticool. I am staining my new reloading bench this weekend so I'll strip part of that stock and see if it takes the stain. It will take the stain.. Jeff.
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