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Post by miketodd58 on Dec 10, 2015 13:06:08 GMT -5
Ive addressed this issue with one of the moderators. We will see if this goes anywhere. It appears to me that if you say something positive about certain vendors threads get deleted or edited.
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Post by miketodd58 on Dec 8, 2015 15:29:33 GMT -5
I for one like having choices and I personally don't see anything wrong with people showcasing their products here.. It's been going on for as long as I've been a member here.. The problem is that some people think that they should be the only one to ADVERTISE on the board because they were here first. Product choices are good, everyone has the right to choose what product they want, weather it's because it's the cheapest option or maybe the most convient option. I've notice that some members can advertise and showcase their stuff while others can't. If everyone had the same right to show their stuff on this board without a lot of others crying about it the this board would be a better place to be and is readers on the side line would have to take in all the drama. Advertising and choices are good, just give everyone the same opportunity as anyone else.. If you don't like it or have nothing good to say don't say nothing at all.. We all want the same thing, and that's an accurate rifle.. Can't like this post enough.
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Post by miketodd58 on Nov 30, 2015 20:12:59 GMT -5
Try brownells then they have 10% off orders over $150
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Post by miketodd58 on Nov 30, 2015 20:08:18 GMT -5
There is a $100.00 rebate on VX3s until the end of the year. Yeah, I was trying to see if I could couple that with anything else today. Don't think vendors will offer much else except maybe free shipping with the $100 rebate. That's still a good deal though. See above you can buy that scope for about $260 if you act now ! Brownells has it a bit higher !
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Post by miketodd58 on Nov 30, 2015 20:07:36 GMT -5
Glad you found one Bill, looks like it should make a light weight build for your present hunting needs. Thanks Tim. I'm shopping around for a scope now, pretty sure I want to top it with a VX-3 2.5-8 X 36. Trying to find a "Cyber Monday" deal on one today. Still contemplating which conversion to go with, but leaning towards Jeff Hankins "HIS" system at the moment. I really like the idea of using the primer modules, and the fact that they work with Extractor's / Ejector's. YB I think the HIS takes a lot of the guess work out and you don't have to resort to using powders you are not happy , hammering a load home or duplexing .
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Post by miketodd58 on Nov 30, 2015 20:04:59 GMT -5
You can get 11 % off that scope at Optics planet . It's $399 and with the 11% off and the $100 rebate brings in around $270 it's a steal !
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Post by miketodd58 on Nov 30, 2015 18:17:42 GMT -5
I have used Flitz when JB is unavailable. Flitz may be a tad bit more abrasive so go easy and work your way up.
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Post by miketodd58 on Nov 27, 2015 14:52:38 GMT -5
Good choice mike, that system will work notta on his action. I did not read all the way down to see where he was using a 700 ML. In his original post he said Rem 700. Yeah I would say he is limited on the plug system then. Did I read somewhere where Jeff Hankins was coming out with a new 209 System that would work with the 700 ML? Or was it going to be limited to the 700 Centerfire only???
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Post by miketodd58 on Nov 27, 2015 14:30:34 GMT -5
Brux Barrel and Get the HIS Hankins Plug system. Both winners IMHO.
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Post by miketodd58 on Nov 26, 2015 23:08:23 GMT -5
Great job and nice story. Jeff is truly a gunsmith and master builder. Nice job!
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Post by miketodd58 on Nov 25, 2015 14:17:11 GMT -5
My guess is those guys won't know two craps about what they have and will have to come to some place like this to gain knowledge. That or they wind up blowing themselves up with it. So sorry man.
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Post by miketodd58 on Nov 24, 2015 19:06:29 GMT -5
Thanks guys for the response to my last post about suggested loads for 45 apex conversion. I have a Slufoot converted 45-70 Bergera barrel. Went to the range today and tried 56 grains H4198 with Barnes 195 and light blue harvester sabot. Sabot and bullet went down the barrel without much difficulty. Federal primer used and could not get the load to fire. Primer went off and pushed the load 1/3 of the way down the barrel. Tried 4 times without success. Temp was 32 degrees. I suspect I'm not getting enough compression due to the easy fit of the bullet/sabot down the barrel. Is knurling the only option in this situation? Would another powder work with less compression? Thicker walled sabot? Thanks! Seems like to me I remember Mr Hankins addressing this issue once before. That its not the fit of the bullet its the ignition system. If I recall his HIS igition system pretty much works in any temperature and with basically a slip fit on the bullet. No need to have a hammer down on the load.
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Post by miketodd58 on Nov 13, 2015 14:52:06 GMT -5
Definitely has to be a Ti action, carbon barrel, mcmillan stock and scope choice will be important. It will cost a lot but if it's what you need you would likely be happy with the results. Yeah when you start looking at those numbers the NULA starts looking really attractive at $1800.
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Post by miketodd58 on Nov 13, 2015 10:55:56 GMT -5
The challenge is to build a lightweight 45 caliber stainless barreled smokeless muzzleloader with a finished weight scoped of 7 to 7.5 pounds. Barrel length can be as short as 16 inches. I have a NULA 50 caliber but want a similar weight rifle in 45 caliber with a stainless barrel. What say you builders out there? Is this possible or only a pipe dream? I would love to have one on the Rem ML platform but I just don't see it. Action is around 3 LBs before relief work. Might get it down to 2.5 Lbs. A carbon Fiber Stock. McMillian 1.6 lbs $600 bucks OUCH! That's 4.1 lbs right there. Then your looking at barrels. Even the lightest taper is going to come in around 3lbs. And most builders won't touch a light taper.
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Post by miketodd58 on Nov 11, 2015 13:55:50 GMT -5
That's impressive Carlos. Great shooting.
The VXR scopes are amazing. Ive got that same scope and DNZ Mount but in 3x9x40. Love the Firedot! You should put to rest the whole aluminium VS steel debate on Scope bases with that report.
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Post by miketodd58 on Sept 23, 2015 17:06:35 GMT -5
Falcons Fan, "...I recently sold the firearm on Gunbroker and it was returned to me because the gentleman that purchased it said the end of the barrel looks like someone used a drill and ground out the riflings." Yes, you describe exactly what it looks like. I have an old Flat top rear receiver ML10 with a serial number in the 9000's IIRC (Don't feel like digging it out of the safe to verify that) Muzzle end looks ugly and I swore that was why I couldn't get it to shoot. But...that was in the old days where we were using the wrong powders in way too much charge weights and using extra wads to contain the pressure and protect the sabot. Now, using .458 bullets and BCR sabots and straight loads of H4198, this gun will shoot 325 FTX bullets at 2,500 fps and group very well....most of all, consistently. With very light loads of 4759 and heavy flat nose bullets...same thing. The "QLA" is a huge treat in terms of field loading under presuure when you are freezing cold along with your components and gun. Still appreciate that today when we go after does hard in late season. Too bad Savage was infringing on a patent of another maker or they probably would have kept that feature. You described it perfectly. Looks like they drilled it out while still leaving a smidgeon of rifling and leaving all the tooling marks. Having this "condition" does not mean that this gun won't shoot and if you want to sell it, someone would gladly take it off your hands I'm sure. For your average deer hunter, there is no better set up than this. It's a killing machine with enough power to kill big bears. Want a tack driving custom build to poke holes at 600 yds? Go see Hank or someone else that builds .40 or .45's and shoot sabotless Want to kill everything you shoot at in the woods under 200 yds? You probably are already there with some load experimenting......and very little investment. Its great to hear some positive things being said about the Factory Production Savage. I was pretty shocked when I first came to this board looking for load advice and saw the words Tomato Stakes and Crappy Barrels being thrown around when describing the Savage MLII. I had practically zero to little load development to get to min of deer and with a bit of tweaking with sabots and bullets got it down to MOA with very little bit of frustration. Your right. I cannot think of a better set up for your average deer hunter. Its a great system.
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Post by miketodd58 on Aug 9, 2015 3:43:52 GMT -5
I googled one of Mr Hankins old posts about duplexing and he had this to say.
SNIP.
Richard is mainly a Duplex shooter so that comment by a Singles shooter is off topic...thanks, edge.
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Post by miketodd58 on Jul 28, 2015 20:30:05 GMT -5
I am not a target shooter.I would like a scope with some kind horizontal hash marks for out to 300 yards.I was thinking of a Leupold with the Boone and Crockett reticle,but have never used one.Once i am on paper out to 300 yards,I will only practice off hand or with my bogpod.i don`t care about 1/2" groups,but minute of Moose to 300.Thanks for your comments.norseman1 Not a big fan of BDC scopes. the two that stick out in my mind that worked the best was the Nikon BDC. Those circles just work. The Redfield mentioned above was also a good one. Pretty fool proof. I rarely say say this but the Leupold BC reticle was a bit fine and hard to see in almost all conditions except perfect light. i like the recommendation of the VXR with Firedot and Turret system myself, great scope and it's way under priced for what all you get.
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Post by miketodd58 on Jul 23, 2015 12:03:11 GMT -5
I have a Savage MLII Pre Accutrigger with the flat base that I need a EWG one piece scope base for.
Does anyone have a part number for that?
Please and Thank you.
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Post by miketodd58 on Jul 20, 2015 14:47:23 GMT -5
I tend to agree Size to a fouled bore. I suspect the majority here tend to hunt with a foul bore.
There is a point where tight is right and tight is too much.
Find a happy medium between tight and tight.
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Post by miketodd58 on May 27, 2015 13:24:41 GMT -5
Has anyone had a scope company reject their replacement/repair claim because they couldn't produce a sales receipt or other paperwork? Has anyone received service despite having no proof of purchase? Not yet. Got to watch out on refurbished scopes. Refurbished scopes from several of the companies do not carry the lifetime warranties that the NIB scopes carry. Nikon just announced that they are going back to the lifetime warranty on their Binoculars effective 01-01 2015. Retroactive with purchases made prior. So all Nikon Binoculars now carry a lifetime warranty regardless of purchase date. I have read online that Leica has some really strict warranty policies in place on their optics. Leupold Nikon and Swarovski are the three companies I have dealt with that continue to amaze me with their high level of CS. It rare that I have had to send a scope back to them. Usually to fault of my own. NOT the great optics they make but they always make it right and in a fast period of time. Always free of charge.
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Post by miketodd58 on May 21, 2015 20:14:24 GMT -5
I put Redfield scopes on my 10ML-ll and my Stevens 45 McGowan. On my 10ML-ll I had a Leupold UltimateSlam 3-9x40 that died. I had bought one of the Redfield Accurange scope 3-9x50 and I liked it. When the Leupold died I bought the Redfield Revenge 3-9x50 both are made by Leupold and lifetime warranty. They are nice and clear in low light in the morning when hunting. The heaviest load is 70gr of IMR4198 and a 300gr bullet. So far these scopes are holding up knock on wood. Two black Fridays ago I wound up buying 6 Redfield Revenge 3x9 for $79 bucks each. Could not pass them up for that kind of money. Have yet to mount them on anything. Don't have a clue what that will be but they sure seem like a nice scope for the money spent. I think I could do a lot worse.
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Post by miketodd58 on May 20, 2015 17:14:23 GMT -5
Good stuff for sure.
Sometimes when you see scope failure. Especially multiple scope failure. Its the scopes way of telling you that you are pushing the upper limits of your load.
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Post by miketodd58 on May 19, 2015 23:26:04 GMT -5
Every Nikon Monarch I've owned was sent in for repairs, which Nikon covered.
I shoot a Leupold VX-6 which is on another heavy kicker too, a braked Ultimate BP Xpress 50. So far its holding perfect after 800 rounds - 180grs T7 and 300gr bullet. I was so impressed with the Leopold VXR that I went out and bought another one, problem is I don't have a thing to mount it on, I hate to dismount a perfectly good scope that is allready zeroed. Guess it's time to buy another muzzleloader.
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Post by miketodd58 on May 19, 2015 23:17:24 GMT -5
Over tightening might just be the problem.. With some of the new 6 bolt rings that are using 8-40 screws I can see it very possible to crush tubes., not only Vortex scopes but any other scopes as well.. The best thing to do is mount your scope correctly, understand torque ratings and torque sequence. Make sure you know the difference between an inch pound and a foot pound. Don't crank down one screw all the way and then do another. Tighten up the screws in a criss cross pattern a little at a time, keeping the gap between the ring top half and the bottom equally spaced, until you have all screws tightened to 20-25 inch pounds.. Jeff Hankins. Thanks Jeff. I knew I was not dreaming the over tightening the tube situation, ,my point being is/ was that if the specs on the tube are so critical that you have to use a inch pound torx wrench to calibrate the torx spec..it's not a scope I feel comfortable owning. back before I understood everything you just mention I cranked the freak out of some tunes from various brands and I gotta say I never had to worry about crushing a tube from over torx ing a ring. Usually the cheap little wrenches would strip out way before that or the Allen head would wallow out. Now days I suspect the screws are made of better heat treatment, they are torx not Allen. People are using gunsmith drivers not wrenches.. So yeah I could see someone getting carried away not knowing what they are doing and over cranking,
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Post by miketodd58 on May 19, 2015 16:47:40 GMT -5
I tend to buy Leupold and Nikon because of the lifetime warranty. I read about Vortex having a lifetime warranty but then I read where you have to have a specific inch pound crank on the rings for the tube. If the tubes are that fragile I do not think I want to have any part of Vortex. Mike.. The rating vortex gives is not to prevent crushing the tubes, it is to prevent people from braking or stripping the screw threads in the scope rings.. Vortex is a top notch scope when you buy their higher end stuff, but like most everything, you get what you pay for.. I have mounted more Vortex Viper PST scopes on these SML's than any other scope and I have not had one to fail yet. I've never needed to return a scope to Vortex and I've sold several hundred of them over the years.. All I know is every time I call them a real person answers the phone and my sales rep is spot on every time I order from them.. Their products can't be beat for the dollars spent... Several of the best groups shot this weekend at the challenge was shot using a Vortex Viper PST.. So I wouldn't be scared of their heads up advice about over tightening the mounting screws... Thanks. Jeff Hankins.. You would be the man to know that information Jeff. I would have swore I read on here and elsewhere where members have had to return tubes due to over torxing ring specs . Anyone else recall that? Or did I dream that?
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Post by miketodd58 on May 19, 2015 16:28:26 GMT -5
Miketidd58: That is good information on BH209. So the trick is to run dry patch first. YES! Unlike smokeless powder... If you try and run a wet patch first with BH209. You are going to have a gummy mess on your hands. The trick is to run a dry patch first to get the soot out. Maybe two if its really heavy fouled. Then follow up with your wet patches of your choice of conventional bore powder solvents. I like Hoppes #9. Ive used others that are far more expensive that are good but Hoppes does a decent job with BH209.
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Post by miketodd58 on May 19, 2015 13:12:37 GMT -5
I tend to buy Leupold and Nikon because of the lifetime warranty.
I read about Vortex having a lifetime warranty but then I read where you have to have a specific inch pound crank on the rings for the tube. If the tubes are that fragile I do not think I want to have any part of Vortex.
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Post by miketodd58 on May 19, 2015 8:37:16 GMT -5
Its a 5x25 conquest HD, the second one in a year. time for an ATACR I think. yes these guns are very hard on scopes.. I certainly like Ziess scopes for certain applications but not for Muzzleloaders or hard recoiling rifles.
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Post by miketodd58 on May 18, 2015 16:34:18 GMT -5
Question?? How do you warp a break??? Im curious. How many shots did it take to get for BH209 to get to the tar or Gum in the few hours you speak of? Do you think this had something to do with the amount of heat generated by the sustained firing and then humidity coupled with down poring rain? ? Or was this a maintenance issue and would a simple swabbing of a dry patch taken care of this? I know from my own experience with BH209 that if you try and wet swab before you dry swab the barrel you will get that tar or gummy feeling with BH209. BH209 leaves a soot type of residue behind. A dry patch will remove the excess "soot" and then you can follow up with wet patches. If you start out with wet patches you are going to find yourself with a gummy bear feeling of sticky mess. I can recall shooting up to 50 rounds in a single range session with BH209 without swabbing. At home I ran a two dry patches down the tube to flush out the soot. Followed by wet patches of Hoppes #9. All was clean. During normal hunting seasons I usually will fire 1 or several rounds during the course of a hunt and bring it home and swab with a dry patch followed by a wet patch of Hoppes. Ive never had a issue like you describe so I am sort of curious as to Deadeyes condition Sat. Thanks in Advance for any information you can provide. Ive never experienced this gummy tar issue with blackhorn but have never shot in conditions like Saturday either seems issue came from shooting then gun setting in 100%humidity for hours then firing again then setting. I typically shoot50 shots repeatedly at inline matchs. Always learning i typically don't patch at all between shoots but in these conditions remendy was to shoot a fouler down range and all was good. Im very pleased with2.4" group at 300 yds under conditions. So did the gummy tar issue happen on its own? From just sustained firing? Or did the gummy effect happen when trying to clean it?
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