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Post by shootsitall on Oct 2, 2011 2:04:56 GMT -5
I am just gettin started reloading shot shells,and need some advice on steel shot. I don't know much about the diff kinds(reclaimed,magnum,nickel plated..ect.) if anyone can give me a quick newbie lesson on them that would be great.
Will be shootin at ducks and geese, and wondering about anyones has a favorite type of shot or recipe? I am reloading 3 and 3.5" 12ga.
Also can't find anyone local to purchase steel shot from. Where can I find some good shot online that won't kill me with shipping? Wouldn't mind getting 500 or so pounds, but haven't been able to find enough info to know what would be best for me.
HELP PLEASE and THANK YOU
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Post by slugger on Oct 2, 2011 18:27:01 GMT -5
You'll never use up 500 pounds of steel shot hunting. Each type of shot needs different loads. Steel is the cheapest to do. use this link and you will find every thing you need to buy. www.ballisticproducts.com/ As far as pet loads that depends on what you shoot. A 12 gauge is the beat for steel 20 works but not well !0 gauge is the beat, gust the way steel works. BPI Has a flat rate shipping right now, If you order something from them Get there "Statues of steel " loading info. 2 3/4" 12 1 oz steel Fio / Multi metal /- / 8 point fold 34 gr steel 2 3/4" 12 1 oz steel Fio / MG-42 / -/ 8 point fold 26 gr 800X 2 3/4" 12 7/8 oz steel Rio / multi metal /-/ 8 point fold 40.5 steel 3" 12 1 1/4 oz steel Fio / VP-70 / - / 8 point fold 32 gr steel 3" 12 1 1/4 oz steel Fio / TPS / - / 8 point fold 32 gr blue dot 3" 12 1 1/8 oz steel Fio/ turkey ranger/1/8/ 8 point fold 39.5 oz steel 3" 12 1 1/8 oz steel Fio / VP-70 / 1/8 / 8 point fold 40 gr steel 3" 12 1 oz steel Fio / MG-42 / 1/2 / 8 point fold 37 gr blue dot 3" 1/2" 12 1 1/2 oz Steel Fio/Multi metal 3 1/2/-/ 6 point fold 37 gr Steel Steel works if you load exact, you need to weigh every item... Good luck .
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Post by shootsitall on Oct 6, 2011 4:39:54 GMT -5
Slugger thank you for the info and the link both were very helpful. First thing you are right, even with 4 buddies, we could never use 500lbs of steel shot hunting. I am still very new to shotshell reloading, and please tell me if I am wrong about anything I say .... Should I find a recipe I like to try then buy the componets for it? Or should I pick my powder and find a load for it and go from there? I have seen a lot of info using 1 1/8oz loads. So was gonna start there.maybe? With that weight 500lbs of shot should be appx 7000 rounds. This wasn't in my OP but, at least once a month(usually more) some friends get together at the backyard range. All five of us will shoot a couple hundred (if not more) rounds each. I wanted to hopefuly bring a couple boxes of mine for everyone to enjoy. Or more if I can reload them that fast. Was thinking if I bought 1 big batch of shot it would be cheaper than several small batches. (Or would BPIs flat rate shipping be a better deal?) I don't mind using the same #2 steel shot for hunting and fun rounds. Unless there is a cheaper shot for fun shootin. Every company makes their powder sound the best but what are the downsides to bluedot and alliant steel(only 2 local shop has in stock)? Are some powders more newbie friendly than others? What powder would you recommend if I was going to start with 3" 12ga with#2 steel shot?
Since posting this I have done a lot of reading and learned a lot, but still don't think I am ready to begin reloading.I got my MEC Steelmasterin the mail today and I am just itchin to use it. Just want to be safe and know as much about what I am doing as I can before I start. Thank you for any help and all your patience with a new guy.
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Post by slugger on Oct 6, 2011 17:04:27 GMT -5
First!!! Get a scale, Thats a MUST For steel! You won't be using your drop bushings. Evey thing HAS to be weighed, shot and powder. Some type of scooper's will help, I just use a spoon and Eye ball it then adjust. It's not fast but it's about the only way. Blue dot will meeter and smaller shot you can Drop. Get the states of steel pamphlet and the lightening steel. SPEED is the KILLER with steel, not so much as shot size and load. If you have some king of loading book find the fastest load you can and get the components to do it on that order you can tack on the pamphlets . BPI has some "Kits" www.ballisticproducts.com/HITS-STEEL-DUCK-GOOSE-PACK/productinfo/SSPP01/www.ballisticproducts.com/Tungsten-Iron-Shot-Package-12ga-3/productinfo/TSP1230/for steel with every thing but powder most are for 100 shells there very good to start with. Don't over load with more than 100 shells till you can try them in your guns steel is very touchy as for choke/gun. It may pattern good in one gun and not in another. You will have to keep trying loads till you find one that works well for you. A 1 1'8 oz load is a good starter and a 1 1/4 is about max in most 3" shells. But don't be afraid to try a 1 oz, I have some that push near 1700 fps. Long story short try a kit first then just go for it >>> just my $.02
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Post by shootsitall on Oct 8, 2011 1:33:44 GMT -5
Thank you again Slugger.
I am still looking at scales,but was gonna put one on my first order. The kits on that link look like a really good place for me to start. I picked up Lymans 5th edition shotshell reloading book when I got my press, but will grab those phamplets also.
I have seen people who say overshot cards are a waste of time. How do you feel about them?
If every gun/choke acts a little bit diffrent with steel... then I will most likley spend a lot of time finding a favorite load for each gun. That sounds like a great reason to spend a lot of time at the range.
In my travels I have seen a good bit of info on slugs and buck loads. In your opinion are they harded to load? Looks like the slug/buck shot has to be hand loaded. Wasn't planning on trying any yet. But have seen enough to become curious.
Thanks for the help and in my humble opinion I think yours is worth more than $0.02.
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Post by slugger on Oct 8, 2011 14:25:54 GMT -5
Maybe $.03Over shot cards make a nice crimp that's all, needed probable not. You can cut your own with a 16 gauge shot shell brass or buy them 500 for $4 ish. I like to use them on all my loads. I use a battery powered scale it's fast and they only cost $40. Slugs and buck shot ?? If your looking for cheaper there not you can buy them cheaper than you can roll them. Better Humm, not so much. The buck shot you can customize them a bit more like smaller buck of smaller charge. The slugs... I have not been able to match the speed or accessory of factory Any way good luck .
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Post by esshup on Oct 8, 2011 23:01:02 GMT -5
shootsitall, do you have to use steel shot at your range, or can you use lead? If you can use lead, that's more cost effective to use than steel for target shooting.
Steel shot needs wads that are made for use with steel shot. They are tougher than regular wads. Steel shot will poke thru the regular wads, score the barrel and it's time for a new barrel.
Get a good electronic scale. The more $$ that they cost will be more than offset in the time saved weighing out all the components. I have a dillon electronic scale and it has worked flawlessly for about 16 years now.
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Post by shootsitall on Oct 12, 2011 3:04:16 GMT -5
Slugger... I wish I could have sat down with you a few months ago. One afternoon talking to you could have saved me a bunch of headaches in front of this little screen. Thank you again. Since I am doing steel shot and will need to weigh everything,and as a beginner I will probally be pretty slow(just to be extra careful). I have looked at a lot of scales,and battery life a concern of mine. How often do you usually replace them? As the batterys get weaker can that effect their accuracy? (As you have noticed I have a habit of over thinking every thing.)
Sounds like the buck and slugs are something I should forget about(for now).
Essup,first let me also thank you for your help. Our local "range" is my buddys back yard. We are very lucky to have that much space out in the middle of nowhere! SAFETY and common sense are our only rules. I have always had an intrest in reloading. At an out of town shop recently I saw a demo of a progressive shotshell press. When I got home I kept thinkin about it. Talked to and watched 2 buddies reload brass,and decided it was something that I want to do. I know I won't see the savings they do. After a lot of reaserch I am thinking at worst I will be shooting higher quality loads for the same price. But in these lean times, I am ALWAYS looking for a way to save a few bucks.
As a beginner I was going to keep things simple and just do steel shot. As I have learned from those wiser than I am, steel loads act a little diffrent in every gun/choke. So it might take me a little time to find a good load for bird seasons.
As I get comfortable with the process I was gonna do more diffrent loads for fun shooting. Do you know a good cheap source for lead shot? Or steel shot?
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Post by slugger on Oct 12, 2011 12:27:31 GMT -5
The battery's won't last very long an any of them. I load in the un heated shop and in the winter I have to use a propane heater and a spot light to keep the scale warm . The temp seems to cause some accuracy problem and the battery's get cold and stop working. I keep a replacement pair in my pocket when they get cold I change them around after they warm for a bit they work again. The scale has a "check weight I'll pit on every sop often to make sure it's still OK. Kind of a pain but way faster than a balance scale.You will find a 1/2 gr difference in powder or a grain on the shot is unnoticeable and with in norms.
Try them! But you need different stuff and load info,not the same as load loads the same weight.
Lead you need to get locally the freight will kill you... BPI is where I get my steel.
You will find you can buy steel cheaper BUT you are right you will be reloading TOP end shells and you can customize to your need and they will ALL shot the same. I can load 3" for about $15 a box, counting the box, and lead for about $6.
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Post by esshup on Oct 12, 2011 14:57:46 GMT -5
If you don't have any reason to load steel for target shooting, don't. Load lead instead. The components are a lot cheaper.
Find a trap, skeet or sporting clays range near you. They usually sell shot and components cheaper than the big box stores (Cabelas) or check with your local Mom & Pop gun shop.
Tapered hulls (Win AA, Remington) are cheaper to reload than straight walled hulls like Federal.
Write or call the different powder mfg's. and ask them to send you their reloading manuals. They should do that free of charge. You can look up the info on the internet, but it sure is handy to have the information in paper form.
I use a Dillon electronic scale. It runs on a 9v battery, or I plug it into the wall. It's at least 15 years old and still working fine.
A cheap load for shooting clay birds is to use claybuster wads that are for 7/8 to 1 oz, use 7/8 or 1 oz of shot, use Red Dot or Alliant Promo powder, Winchester 209 Primers and Winchester AA hulls.
Loading 1 oz of shot, a 25# bag gives you 400 loads. One pound of powder should load around 400 shells, a bag of 500 wads should be around $8.00, 1,000 primers should run around $25 - $30.
I think Winchester might still have their $2/box rebate going on, buy a flat or 2 (250 rounds in a flat) and save the hulls and boxes. You can reload them 8-10 times.
I started reloading for shotguns ass backwards. I started out on a Ponsness-Warren 800C reloader....... Once it's set up, I can load an average of 600 shells an hour. ;D
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Post by shootsitall on Oct 19, 2011 1:04:38 GMT -5
Thank you for the help again. Haven't been able to find better info anywhere. I finally got my reloading bench/space tonight! Just waiting on my BPI order. Feel like a kid on christmas eve again. Also found a skeet and trap club nearby. About once a month, they take a trip to pick up their club order. I will be able to get almost any componets I need from them. All of the powder and primers were cheaper than I could find anywhere online. And no haz-mat fees!! Was even invited to shoot a couple rounds when I go pick up my powder and shot. I am thinking about overshot cards for my steel loads.Will adding an overshot card to a load that dosent call for one change the speed or pressure? Or should I look for for loads that use them? And buffer...I only read a little about it but.. Is it worth it? Do you mix it with the shot? Or put it under the shot? Don't worry Slugger,this should be my last stupid beginner questions about componets. Untill I get my powder and start rolling em up. But I am sure I will have a diffrent set of stupid questions about adjusting my press. Those will be for a new thread. thank you for your time and patience. Its been a HUGE help.
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Post by slugger on Oct 19, 2011 10:41:29 GMT -5
I am thinking about overshot cards for my steel loads.Will adding an overshot card to a load that doesn't call for one change the speed or pressure? Or should I look for for loads that use them? And buffer...I only read a little about it but.. Is it worth it? Do you mix it with the shot? Or put it under the shot? Don't worry Slugger,this should be my last stupid beginner questions about componets. Untill I get my powder and start rolling em up. But I am sure I will have a different set of stupid questions about adjusting my press. Those will be for a new thread. thank you for your time and patience. Its been a HUGE help. The only question that is stupid is the one unasked... I use a O/c card on all my loads just seam to crimp nicer, No they do not change the speed or PSI. The way I understand it is; You can leave out the buffer if it is called for in the mix but you shouldn't add it if it is not,. With that said I would not leave it out, steel will" ricochet" around in the shell when fired. Have you ever seen the Ball thing on a desk? When you drop one on one side all the rest stay still and the other end one swings out, they say it happens in side your shell. The bottom ones get hit with the power of the powder and the top ones start to move first. You don't want that to happen or it may send part of the shot out of the wad before the rest are moving and will dink up your pattern and barrel. The buffer is used to stop that. I have used it in loads that don't call for it when I'm using "Big" shot like #1's+ but cut the shot down a bit like one shot to account for the extra mass. I load the shell then before the shot card and crimp I'll ad the buffer then put my thumb over the top and put the shell on a vibrator, I use an electric sander turned up side down in my vice to hold it and with out any sand paper on the pad. As you hold it you will see the buffer get sucked down, don't over do it they say you can "float" the shot on top of it, Just as it's all out of sight I stop. BPI has a dipper for buffer, I use a powder dipper that will hold around 6/8 gr of buffer. On my big 3 1/2" Shell with BBB and bigger I'll use two scops. It sound like you have a great sports club there I wish I did here, Good luck and I'll be around if you need more help.
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Post by esshup on Oct 21, 2011 23:06:20 GMT -5
Slugger said it all, not much to add. If a particular recipe calls for type "X" buffer, don't substitute. It WILL change the pressure of the shell, and could put it above SAMMI specs. I had some pressure tested and just by changing the buffer it changed the pressure by over 3,000 psi. I loaded so many buffered shells that I rigged up a Hornady powder measure and an electric pencil on my Pons 800C. It automatically dropped the buffer on top of the shot, and when I seated the primer, the electric pencil vibrated the buffer down between the pellets. I could load around 450 buffered shells an hour that way.
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Post by shootsitall on Nov 5, 2011 1:52:28 GMT -5
Thank you again for all the patience and great info. I have been away for a while, the ole lady decided to give me the spare bedroom. Now I have a nice quiet place indoors for reloading and all my kitchen table smith work. Took a lot of time and work to make it into a propper"redneck room", but after I busted a few clays with my first hand loads, it was worth it. I am still waiting for my steel powders to come in, but can't wait to drop my first duck. Thanks again Slugger I wouldn't have had the confidence to try reloads without the the archives here and the friendly guys here.
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