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Post by moto357 on May 10, 2011 23:09:08 GMT -5
was thinking with these rings any slippage would be the least of my worries. turns out i haven't had a range session yet where the scope hadn't moved in these rings. not sure if its proper or not but i've used clear fingernail polish in the past on scopes/rings that slipped, and it solved the problem. with these rings i've tried torquing past what i feel is needed and also tried the clear fingernail polish.
another other tricks would be appreciated
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Post by rossman40 on May 11, 2011 16:41:14 GMT -5
The old stand by, rosin. Normally if I told someone this secret I would kill them afterwords but since we are close to family,,,, Find someone that plays a fiddle or other string instrument and borrow their block they use for their bow, they may have a piece too small to use on their bow or just go to the music store and a block is only a couple of bucks (or at least it was). The block works a whole lot better then the powder from a pitchers bag. Rub it on the inside of the ring just till it looks like a thin coat of wax. Something about the darker the wax the softer and the softer the better grip strings but for rings you do not want it too soft. I think the block I have is light amber. Boarhog should be able to give some tips on which to buy.
The best old trick I seen was to lap the rings and then paint the inside of the rings with a dielectric paint, a paint that doesn't dry hard like enamel and was kinda rubbery. The smiths brother got it for him from Hobart. Can't put it on thick.
A recent trick I heard was to use teflon pipe tape. Just one layer and supposedly it "smooshes" into the microscopic grooves in the finish and while none-stick, it will resist shear to some extent. Haven't tried it myself.
With the grip area of the XTRs I too would think slippage would be the last thing. Does it look like your getting full contact? Another nifty tool is a torque wrench from Warne. It only works on T-15 and is preset at 25 inch pounds and if you shop around can be had for less then $20.
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Post by foxgrape on May 12, 2011 8:38:14 GMT -5
Ken,
Is 25 in pounds a good "generic" torque for rings (unless otherwise directed)?
...and a related question...what would be the "generic" torque for mounting bases...
Foxgrape
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Post by rossman40 on May 12, 2011 11:37:00 GMT -5
IIRC Warne says 25in/lb on everything, or at least the T-15 screws. I think Burris says 20in/lb on the cap and the base screw with the 1/2" hex 65in/lbs. On quality rings you could go 25 easily but no more then 30in/lbs for the cap screws, past that you could deform the scope tube. For the base/crossbolt it depends on the size, for the heavy duty picatinny tactical style with a 1/2" or 7/16" hex I think is like 65 but I would not go over 100in/lbs even with steel rings and bases.
I have seen several guys using the two-piece XTR bases with the XTR rings that had to lap the rings. Heavy scopes make the problem worse. Look and see how much contact your getting between the scope and lower part of the ring.
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Post by moto357 on May 12, 2011 17:46:04 GMT -5
the contact being made is certainly less than desired, so that is what im looking at for my first line of defense against the slipping. second, i'll grab some rosin and we'll give it another go. the scope is what i consider on the heavy side so im sure that hadn't helped, but im pretty confident getting more surface area/contact alone will be a huge improvement. thanks
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Post by cdw338 on Jul 5, 2011 20:28:06 GMT -5
For a long time, I have cut 600 grit emery paper to fit the bottom and top of each ring, turn the grit away from scope. This will not show and I have never had a scope to slip. Been doing this many a years. Tighten as usual.
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