Gatco diamond VS reg which better?

[artjr338wm]

After hearing raved reviews of the Gatco knife sharpening system I am considering buying one, but would like to know if the diamond stone one is actually any better than the standard stone model. I can buy the diamond model for $65.

Bottom line will the diamond stones give me a sharper blade and longer lasting edge.

Thanks,
Arthur.

[rossman40]

The diamond stones do not wear so if your going to use it a lot that is a advantage. The finish stone is still a ceramic stone. It still boils down to the final finish. The Gatco final ceramic is like 1200 grit. I think with the Lansky the ultra fine is 1000 and the polish stone is like 2000. Usually getting that fine doesn't mean a longer lasting edge because it is so fine and is damaged easily. It is made worse with cheaper steels, getting a $5 made in China blade super sharp will not last long compared to a quality blade. Then again I ran into the guy that used to work for Wilkinson then did a stint at MIT and was heading to Gillete. He said the biggest problem on fine finished razor blades was actually oxidation. The use of the razor strap in older times basicly takes the oxidation off the edge.

I have a Lansky set which I like more then the Gatco. The guide rods are too short on the Gatco if your doing blades longer then say 5".

Neat photo, you might think it is a rough edge but it is actually a razor blade at high mag.

[cuda]

The Gatco rods pull out to make them longer and you can get them in diamond too. I still like doing it by hand on a flat stone. I have diamond stones too. I have worn out some cheap diamond stones. I have a lot of different stones even bench stones. When I sharpen a knife for someone I tell them to count thier fingers before and after they use it.

[rossman40]

The Gatco I used was pretty well used (maybe abused) and it seemed the farther you brought the rod out the more wobble. With the Lansky you got "spring" in the rod if you put too much pressure. I do like the wider stones of the Gatco.

With diamond stones it is easy to scrape the diamond compound off if you do not pay attention or they use a cheap bonding agent. Probly the mack-daddy of diamond hones are these plates that come out of Japan, over $100 for a 3"X8". Maybe it comes from learning how to sharpen samurai swords but the Japanese know their stuff. Japanese waterstones are awesome but soft and even the Arkansas stones do not hold up well with some of the newer steels like BG-42 and S90V. So your left with diamond or the fancy ceramic stones. Then if you use those stones on tool steel or lesser SS they will flat eat the knife up.

[cuda]

I know what you are saying! I think the harder steel is what got my cheap diamond stones. I was trying to do it on my Arkansas stone and getting no where. My diamond stone did a lot of knives but just that one more or less did it in. But I have more and boy was it sharp. I like to rough them on the diamond then the Arkansas to fine tune them. I just can not see spending $100 for just one stone. I can buy a lot of cheap stone for that or thing for my Savage. Sharpening gives me some thing to do on the days I can not get out like rainy days. When I am not working on my guns or reloading.

[rossman40]

I like to get a good angle with the sharpener then it is easy to touch up most knives with a stone like a hard black Arkansas. Then when the angle goes to crap I go back over it with the sharpener.

If you want to find a guy that is a super sharpener find a wood carver. They keep those chisels super sharp and can give most knife guys a lesson or two.

[artjr338wm]

Thanks guys for the replies. I am lagit knife sharpening junkie and own several types of sharpeners. My present favorite is the Spyerco Tri Angle Sharp maker. I can put a hair popping edge on my knives with it, but have always been intriqued by the gatco/lansky type sharpeners and after reading about the gatco here i seriuosly considered buying one.

based on what I have read in this post, i will stay with what I have.

Ken you are 1000% correct concerning old fassioned stones. The most favorite knife I own is a original Black Jack Knives of Effingham IL Trail Guide made of high carbon A2 tool steel.
It is buy far the knife that not only is the sharpest blade I own, it will hold a edge far longer than any knife I have ever personaly seen. I once let it get dull and had to start out with my Arkansas stones from corse to fine and finished up with a extra fine cerramic, but it once again returned to scarry scarry sharp.

I do know how to sharpen the old fassioned free-hand way, but like most others prefer a way that is not nessasarly quicker, just easior to maintain the correct degree of angle.

I can strongly recommend the the Spyderco sharpening system. It is quick and extreamly easy to use and does work well.

Thanks again to all for responding,
Arthur

[rossman40]

Getting that base angle right is the key and with a system like the Gatco, Lansky or others it is pretty easy.

[boarhog]

I have two knives I use for general deer and hog skinning. One is an old Buck 120, and the other is a Gerber Gator w/gut hook. I like them both, but would like to have a skinning knife that will hold an edge some better. I have a Lansky outfit, and several different models of Diamond sharpeners, but mostly, I end up using 3 Arkansas Stones Soft, Med, and Hard.
A recommendation as to what knife to buy would be appreciated. I probably need to stay under $100.00, unless there is a very good reason to pay more.
Boarhog

[rossman40]

I use 2 knives for skinning, one big and one small. The big one is called a buffalo skinner, been in the family forever and the blade is stamped 1865. It has been sharpened so much that the curve is about perfect. Doesn't hold a edge real long, once you sharpen it for the season your alright but will need sharpening for the next season. Looks a lot like this one,



For the smaller knife I have used a Old Timer Sharpfinger or just my gutting knife (much like your Gator). Another one I use when cutting the hide like along the legs is just a dirt cheap box cutter/utility knife with the hooked carpet blades. it seems to cut the hide from the back so less hair floating around. Do not need to sharpen, just put in a new blade.

If I was to buy a skinner now for a small one I would be leaning towards a CRKT Onion Skinner,



I like CRKT knives, good steel at a good price. For a big one I do not know but while on the CRKT webpage I seen this and has me thinking. It is called the Onion Shakaulu.



I like something heavy enough to use as a hatchet. Up in Alaska the natives use this curved hand blade called a ulu. They will use that for everything from skinning a polar bear or seals to dicing veggies.

[Deleted]

Rossman,
I have a few ulu from alaska and they don't look like that one. The ones I have have a small trapazoidial piece of wood as a handle right above where the hole in the blade is in your photo. I use them all the time cookingThe hatchet type design with the gut hook right where you can apply the most pressure doesn't jive with what a ulu is all about. If you want a hatchet /ulu I guess that one will do just watch out for the gut hook pinch'n your finger. My two cents and I wish I had the means of uploading a photo. By the way, I think the government outlawed leaving alaska with a ulu. I heard that anyway.
Tight groups guys,
Greenhorn

[rossman40]

True, the ulus look more like these,



The curve of the cutting edge reminded me of a ulu. A guy I served with up at Ft. Lewis his wife's grandmother was native alaskan and lived with them. That was her number one tool in the kitchen, she could give those japanese guys a run for the money dicing veggies.

[boarhog]

I used to have one of those "Crooked" skinning knives I got from Dixie Gun Works. Somehow, I didn't get custody of it in a divorce. It was the cat's meow for skinning and fleshing out Beaver or Otter. I also have several Wyoming Knives, that work pretty well, but they make my old paw cramp up.
BH