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Post by orionsoracle on Mar 18, 2011 5:59:01 GMT -5
Hey Guys, I am entertaining the idea of reloading for my center fire and pistols. I have a line on a Hornady Locknload reloader,new in the box for $250.00 Seems like a good deal being that they run $350.00+ at Midway. So being TOTALLY ignorant on this subject,what do I all need for equipment,and what advice would you all have to make this process go easier for me? One thing I know for sure,I will need a reloading manual. I will be reloading calibers in 300WSM,.223/5.56,45 ACP,,,,,, I have a digital scale that I purchased for my 10ML powder. Any help would be great. And I thank many of you like Tar12,Rossman40,Wilmsmeyer and many more for all the previous info. You guys are great!!!!!!!!!! ;D
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Post by mike3132 on Mar 18, 2011 8:50:01 GMT -5
Buy a Sierra reloading manual and read it first. The manual will explain how and what you need to reload. Mike
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Post by ricksalisbury01 on Mar 18, 2011 9:19:38 GMT -5
If that press is a single stage, and not a progressive, I would say go for it. And as mike3132 stated....READ READ READ. RCBS makes a cheap dvd about how to reload, and YouTube is your friend. I think one needs to start, and master a single stage, before moving on to a progressive. Reloading is cheaper....in the long run. But once you start, there are many more "must-haves," and the cost will continue to add up. I love reloading, and most of mine is done on a single stage. That said, all the ammunition I have made for self-loading firearms are run on a progressive (40, 45, 9mm, 223 Rem), without hand-weighing each powder throw. In addition to the press you will want to buy a: Flash hole deburring tool, primer pocket uniformer (large and small), inside and outside champher tool, a funnel to pour the powder into the case, a case trimmer with the correct shell holders and pilots, if you shoot a lot of "5.56," a decrimping die, a good caliper, a brass tumbler, a brass separator, case lube, and you will have to steal a few cookie pans from the wife to use when you are lubing your case brass.
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Post by wilmsmeyer on Mar 18, 2011 9:56:51 GMT -5
Good advise so far. I would also highly recommend reading a standard issue reloading manual before you start...take you a few hours at most.
For your lower volume ammo like the 300 WSM, you may want to invest in a "neck sizing only" die which will potentially enhance your accuracy by keeping your cases exactly matched to your individual chamber.
Good luck. It is fun. If you shoot a lot, this will pay for itself eventually. For instance, I can load a box of .243 ammo that mirrors a particular "high end" loading with a premium bullet for under $15 a box instead of $40
Example: $0.50 per head (or less) $0.03 per primer per round $0.15 for powder per round
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Post by mdgroundhogger on Mar 18, 2011 16:07:06 GMT -5
I second everything already said. See about getting a RCBS case prep center (around $100) it will save you alot of time prepping your brass as well as your fingers.
I love my Nosler manuals because they show the most accurate load of each powder used plus the most accurate overall powder for every given bullet/powder combo. The Hodgdon manual will give you pressure readings and it runs around $10 (there have been a few inconsistency issues with these manuals in the past, but thats why you look up data in more than one anyway. I use them for the pressure data mainly).
The RCBS Uniflow powder measure is really nice too. I've tried the electronic measures in the past but always have gone back to the Uniflow. They also make a micro adjust meter for it which allows you to return to your settings later. This is really helpful once you start reloading different calibers.
Alot of my stuff is RCBS but my dies are Redding,Forster & RCBS. And my personal preference is in that order. If your guns are bolt actions than you may want to consider neck dies along with your full length dies. Neck dies will help you make a load for "your" gun because the body of the round is not sized and it will be the size of your chamber. This theoretically will help make it more accurate.
The worst part about reloading is the initial investment after that its all reward!!! ;D
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Post by youp50 on Mar 18, 2011 18:54:57 GMT -5
Lock and Load is a progressive press. 250 is a good price. It may be slightly more complicated than you want to be starting out. Most writers etc recommend starting with a single stage press.
An alternative could be a single stage set up. List prices for Lee kit around 150 and 250 for an RCBS set up. Just add your dies.
Or else buy the L&L and find a buddy to walk you through the set up and operation of a progressive press. Then buy a new shooting glove, cause your are going to have to use up all that ammo.
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Post by mountainam on Mar 18, 2011 19:00:11 GMT -5
I'm partial to the Lyman Reloading Manuals because they show the pressures that a lot of the high end manuals do not like Hornady and Sierra,but I have those too. It helps when I choose a powder. It's just my thing , but I usually choose a powder that produces the highest velocity while showing the lowest pressures. As for your .223, if you are using it in a weapon other than a bolt rifle you may want to consider a SMALL BASE sizing die. I'm glad to see your choice of the .300WSM as opposed to a .300Win Mag. Belted mags are a pain to load and the WSM's make that all go away. The belted case has long outlived it's usefulness. Good Luck on your ammocrafting!
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Post by rossman40 on Mar 18, 2011 21:28:30 GMT -5
I use to run two single stages for the target ammo. a cheap Lee and the big boy was a RCBS rock crusher which I still have. Plinking .223 rifle and pistol I would run on a buddies Dillion RL 550B. With the single stage you get more of a "feel" so you can tell quickly when something isn't right.
Tough to beat the advice already given. Have Midsouth send you a catalog, they have some package deals that are tough to beat. Yo will have a reference library in no time. Find someone you know to show you the basics, youtube videos or look around and see if there is a NRA reloading course being put on close by. Plinking ammo isn't hard but when you get to the finer points of target ammo it gets a bit tougher with case prep being the big thing.
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Post by whyohe on Mar 19, 2011 3:45:13 GMT -5
If i recall right with the hornady Lock-n-Load you have to use hornady's dies cause it is how they "lock" into the press. I do beleave you can get a single stage in the lock-n-load. do some research on the press befor you buy it. you may not want to be stuck using just hornady's dies.
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Post by orionsoracle on Mar 19, 2011 15:29:24 GMT -5
I used to reload shot shells for my dad for trap shooting. It had a multiple station and i found it pretty simple. The Hornady Locknload that I mentioned was sold. Day late,dollar short. So i am in need of another press. The single stages seem much cheaper than a progressive press. On a single stage,do you load the powder in manually? Thanks for all the helpful info.
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Post by toosensitive on Mar 19, 2011 18:31:52 GMT -5
RCBS Rock Chucker is a very simple single stage press. Powder delivery comes from a separate unit. If you don't have a friend that is knowledgeable in metallic reloading then you must read (and re-read) as much as possible on the subject. By the time I had all powder, bullets, primers, scale, calipers, dies, trimmers, lubes, shell holders, storage boxes, polishing equipment, books, etc.. I was approaching $1,000. RCBS and others manufacture starter kits that may be the way to go. I find that shotshell reloading is a pretty simple, straight forward process, however, there are many more dangers in metallic cartridge reloading. I was fortunate to have someone show me the ropes before I took on the process myself.
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Post by youp50 on Mar 20, 2011 7:45:40 GMT -5
This is how I reload on a single stage press.
I run the cases through a tumbler to shine them up.
I lube the cases.
Resize and decap, one operation.
Clean the primer pockets.
Reprime.
Set the powder measure.
Put the cases in a loading block and charge all the cases. Visually check all cases for similar levels of powder. I check the weight of the powder in every third case. (If I am working up a load where I expect to only charge 5 cases and change the charge, I will charge and trickle powder up to the desired weight.)
Set the seating die and load the chosen bullet to the desired depth.
I usually use a Lee die to crimp the case.
I count 9 times I handle the product from start to finish.
Finding the proper charge weight and brand, bullet weight and brand, and cartridge OAL are some of the important variables to consider.
Lead dust is a health hazard. Lead is found in the brass, most bullets, primers and spent primers, and primer pockets. The decapping, primer pocket cleaning, and tumbling release the most lead dust.
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Post by youp50 on Mar 20, 2011 13:16:04 GMT -5
Forgot to include trimming to length and chamfering
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