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Post by artjr338wm on Feb 23, 2009 20:23:54 GMT -5
I just finished re-mounting scopes on three of my rifles and was wondering if anyone knows of a better way of securely holding the rifle in place once you get the scope base perfectly level to the bore besides how I do it.
In order to hold my rifles once I get the scope bases as near perfectly level as I can, I clamp them in my quite large bench vise with the rubber covered wood blocks that came with the vice. The vice insures the scope bases/rifle will not move out of level during the scope mounting process. The rest of the rifle sits in my cleaning cradle as it holds the rifle so as to be near perfectly level with the vice.
I use my own system involving bubble levels to insure that the cross hairs and receiver are level to one another.
I learned the vice trick years ago from a article I read in one of the hunting mags.
The vise works great and I know I should not try to fix what ain't broke, but one never knows if there is a better way to do something unless one asks.
Thank,
Arthur.
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Post by Richard on Feb 23, 2009 20:35:59 GMT -5
Art: That is an excellent way. I do the same thing with the series of bubble levels to get both the action and scope in unison. If one does not have a large bench vise, I might suggest a very inexpensive (Chinese) wood working vise which mounts on the side of your bench. They can be had for under $15 and you put your own wood "Jaw inserts" in them. If I have a stock with a nice wood finish, I wrap a rag or towel around the area I am going to squeeze in the vise.
Richard
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Post by Harley on Feb 23, 2009 20:42:54 GMT -5
There probably isn't anything better than a couple of bubble levels, but if you have just one, try attaching it to a flat bar, then laying the bar across the flats of your receiver (bolt out of the way). Hang a weighted string at a distance your scope can focus when set on lowest power. Now, with the bubble confirming your rifle is level, twist the scope in the rings until the vertical crosshair aligns with your plumb string. You don't have to have a vise; you can set your rifle in sandbags, etc.
Harley
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Post by ozark on Feb 23, 2009 21:12:38 GMT -5
Starting level using level bubbles is great. But as you tighting one side of he rings it sometimes causes the scope to twist and become canted. I have to use a level reciever and then work with the ring screw or screws until the vertical line in the scope is parallal to or on a plumbbob string. With my vision I need to be careful not to cant the rifle when sighting on a side hill location. It is amazing how far off I can be from correct when I get that optional illusion.
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Post by youp50 on Feb 24, 2009 6:35:07 GMT -5
The trouble with a couple of bubble levels is they probably are not really level. That doesn't mean they are unusable. Most levels do not read true.
For your own information take your level to a more of less level spot on your bench. Wipe the bench and the bottom of your level. Set the level down and observe where the bubble sits. Turn the level 180 degrees, end for end. Now look at the relationship of the bubble to the line. Now match both of your levels and see what you have got.
If your levels are like most there is going to be a difference. Lay them side by side and figure out which gives you the best match, you should have four ways to do it. You do not have to have both bubbles on the line. Just make sure you know which way they should be orientated and which one needs to be a 'quarter bubble off'. For mounting a scope you do not need to be true level, the scope and the rifle need to have the horizontal planes parallel. So an 'unlevel' level is usable.
The next time you go to a hardware store to buy a level find a level and plumb spot, two different places. Then swap your levels end for end and side for side. You will probably need to try several to find a good one. When you find it buy it, don't beat it up and put your name on it.
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Post by rossman40 on Feb 24, 2009 12:10:40 GMT -5
Youp, in the artillery we would call that the end-for-end test.
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Post by lwh723 on Feb 24, 2009 16:47:39 GMT -5
I haven't tried it yet, but somebody on another board used shims (spark plug gappers?) to level the scope. The shims were inserted between the scope & the mount. The amount of shim was adjusted until it perfectly fit the gap. Of course, this would take some adaptation to do on a two piece base. I keep on telling myself I'm going to give it a try next time I mount a scope, but I never have shims handy.
In theory, I think this would work better than bubble levels because the shims would impede the scope twisting when the rings are tightened.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 24, 2009 17:05:27 GMT -5
as for the rings pulling the scope I simply use two wrenches at the same time turning equally as I tighten...Bill
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Post by joe21a on Feb 24, 2009 17:09:59 GMT -5
Iwh723 You would use shims if you needed to raise the front or back of the scope to gain enough adjustment. Atrjr338is talking about setting the cross hairs plumb and level to the barrel so when you look thought the scope the vertical line is in the center of the bore.
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Post by lwh723 on Feb 25, 2009 9:28:43 GMT -5
Iwh723 You would use shims if you needed to raise the front or back of the scope to gain enough adjustment. Atrjr338is talking about setting the cross hairs plumb and level to the barrel so when you look thought the scope the vertical line is in the center of the bore. That's what I'm talking about too. You shim the scope level to the gun using the flat part of the on the bottom side of the middle of ths scope and the one piece base. You pull the shims out after the scope is locked down. The article I read a full pictoral "how to," but I can find it. |
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Post by edge on Feb 25, 2009 9:47:58 GMT -5
IMO, since this is the smokeless ML forum we are talking short range hunting, not long range targets. With that being the case, a canted scope will make very little difference. Even if it were off by 10 degrees it would only be about 1/2 inch at 300 yards...I think  edge. PS it might be uncomfortable to shoot assuming that you straighten the crosshairs while firing. PPS While I am anal about leveling the scope, I think that I would probably prefer to: pick up the rifle and shoulder it with my eyes closed, Then open my eyes and level the crosshairs to a known level target. To me that would probably work fastest for all short range shooting. |
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Post by lwh723 on Feb 25, 2009 9:54:55 GMT -5
IMO, since this is the smokeless ML forum we are talking short range hunting, not long range targets. With that being the case, a canted scope will make very little difference. Even if it were off by 10 degrees it would only be about 1/2 inch at 300 yards...I think edge. I never did the calculations, but I figured it couldn't be much. It's more of an annoyance thing for me. |
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