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Post by sagittarius on Feb 23, 2009 12:03:45 GMT -5
Tried to remove my old barrel last night with the wrench I got from Midway, to have my action ready when my Pac-Nor arrives. Clamped the barrel into a bench vice supported by wood blocks and rubber liners. It turned no matter how much pressure I applied and blows struck with the dead blow hammer. What barrel vise do you guys recommend to remove barrels ? Are there any bench vise inserts you recommend that would work ? Don't recommend me making my own vise, ain't going to happen !
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Post by Harley on Feb 23, 2009 12:15:23 GMT -5
Sag, make your own vise. LOL.
1. Try clamping the action in your vise. Figure a way to use blocks to tighten across the action flats (with the bolt removed).
2. Hit the wrench in the right direction (when looking from the muzzle to the action, the wrench should be hit downwards on the left side of the barrel.)
Harley
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Post by rexxer on Feb 23, 2009 13:08:00 GMT -5
Sag -I did mine the same as Harley! Worked great! Rightie tightie--lefty looseee!
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Post by edge on Feb 23, 2009 13:27:51 GMT -5
Make sure you remove your front scope base as the screw may be on the threads. If you used loctite on the base screws you might needs a bit of heat ( not too much ), to break the bond.
edge.
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Post by nitro1947 on Feb 23, 2009 13:44:28 GMT -5
i used oak blocks and did as Harley ...
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Post by rbinar on Feb 23, 2009 13:47:24 GMT -5
Tried to remove my old barrel last night with the wrench I got from Midway, to have my action ready when my Pac-Nor arrives. Clamped the barrel into a bench vice supported by wood blocks and rubber liners. It turned no matter how much pressure I applied and blows struck with the dead blow hammer. What barrel vise do you guys recommend to remove barrels ? Are there any bench vise inserts you recommend that would work ? Don't recommend me making my own vise, ain't going to happen ! I prefer the receiver wrench to a barrel vise it's easier and quicker than a vise. If you don't have or want a wrench it can be done in a big vise and the barrel nut wrench. It's easier if you are able to take the trigger assembly off the receiver. If that's a bit scary then remove all the scope parts mounts and the bolt. Don't be tempted to use the scope mounts as a stop they'll rip right off the receiver. With all the non essentials removed place blocks in the receiver cut out. With a big enough vise you should be able to lock the receiver in the vise against the blocks. It may take some planning to have the barrel nut where the wrench will reach it after the receiver is locked. Better duct tape if you don't want noticable scratches.
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Post by craigf on Feb 23, 2009 13:47:36 GMT -5
Try a bigger hammer?
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Post by sagittarius on Feb 23, 2009 22:15:28 GMT -5
Thanks for the information, Guys. It is much appreciated !
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Post by chuck41 on Feb 24, 2009 11:02:16 GMT -5
Yep. That is what worked for me. Even tried using a hammer and dinged up the wrench a bit trying it with the barrel vice to no avail. Changed to a action vice approach like guys here suggested and it came lose with first blow of the plastic mallet.
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Post by Richard on Feb 24, 2009 20:01:54 GMT -5
Paul..........I know what Edge is saying, but that part of the operation pretains more to unscrewing the barrel from the action. This may or may not be a problem. Right now, you need to loosen the barrel nut. I know its scarey, but you have to give that wrench a good sharp blow! To protect the wrench, I use a piece of wood (cross grain) and a hand sledge. Richard
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Post by sagittarius on Feb 24, 2009 22:17:46 GMT -5
Thanks, Rich. My cousin is making me several pairs of blocks and is going to drill them for me on his drill press and cut them out with his band saw. When they're done, I hope to finally take the barrel off. I will swing that hammer hard. I do have the front base removed as I read about that from other posts in the past.
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Post by minst7877 on Feb 25, 2009 0:09:43 GMT -5
Now that we know how to get the barrel off. How much torque do you put it back on with? There are a couple of 1/2 drive holes in the wrenches that a torque wrench can be installed in. Do you use the one closest to the nut or the one farthest away?
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Post by rbinar on Feb 25, 2009 2:30:58 GMT -5
8-)I don't understand (you can all say in unison "that's a first") I have never had to hit the wrench with a hammer and I get them off. What seems to be the problem? The first image is the tools the second image is barrel nut being loosened. The third image is not a part of the discussion but I provide it to show how I tighten the barrel nut without the barrel turning with the nut.
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Post by rbinar on Feb 25, 2009 2:36:07 GMT -5
Now that we know how to get the barrel off. How much torque do you put it back on with? There are a couple of 1/2 drive holes in the wrenches that a torque wrench can be installed in. Do you use the one closest to the nut or the one farthest away? Use either one but keep in mind if you are using a torque wrench when you tighten the reading isn't correct and the longer you make the wrench handle the more it's off. Proper torque is between 45 and 50 ft/lb I use the longest position when I'm taking it off for more leverage.
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Post by mike.dawson on Feb 25, 2009 16:21:57 GMT -5
You sure you don't use the golf clubs? Is that your secret? ;D
Mike
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Post by redpep on Feb 25, 2009 20:02:39 GMT -5
Yes he does use the clubs, one stroke at a time
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Post by rbinar on Feb 26, 2009 4:36:11 GMT -5
8-)You'd be surprised what can be done with a little effort and a handy three wood.
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Post by redpep on Feb 26, 2009 16:18:18 GMT -5
My son used a 3 wood to put a deer out of it's misery that was lying along side the road
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