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Post by ET on Jul 1, 2010 21:03:46 GMT -5
Well I’m still off to a slow start because of waiting for my order of vanes and getting close to finishing up my homemade target butt to start tuning my bow. In the meantime I took on another project. Wanting to start with aluminum arrows I know eventually I will have a few bent ones too straighten and some to check for straightness periodically. With that thought I looked at a commercial arrow straightener and whoa not cheap. So I thought what the heck I would try and build one myself. Here are my initial results.     It did help pass some time. Should find out how good she works in the near future. ;D Ed |
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Post by DBinNY on Jul 1, 2010 21:27:31 GMT -5
Ed, you must have used up 1/2 the aluminum in the world with your projects. If you used carbon arrows you wouldn't need that rig so I guess using aluminum arrows gives you another excuse to invent stuff. I always enjoy following your projects. Good luck with it and let us know how it works out.
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Post by ET on Jul 2, 2010 2:38:52 GMT -5
DBinNY
Yeah my stockpile of scrap is diminishing a little but this project also used stainless. The ½” rod and square tubing are SS.
For $20 to build this sure beats $169 for a commercial model.
Been an aluminum arrow man from way back so I figured to start here before trying any other type. The arrows I currently have on hand have a .001” straightness tolerance as compared to say carbons that are more. For some reason that sticks in my mind as a bonus for accuracy at the moment.
Now this homemade rig will also be used to check how true my broad heads are when installed. Just spin the arrow on the roller bearing supports and if there is any wobble at the end of the broad head I have a correction to make.
The only thing missing on this rig is a cut-off saw where some extension of the ½” SS might be employed. Yeah the wheels between my ears are still turning. Now that would make this a complete tool for any arrow preparation.
It’s been a fun project so far especially cutting that small slot for the dial indicator through ½” aluminum with no mill machine. As they say “Where there’s a will there’s a way”. ;D
Ed
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Post by dougedwards on Jul 2, 2010 7:29:31 GMT -5
Wow!!!! That is incredible. I think that maybe ED is the obsessive type ;D ;D ;D
Sure wish I had him as a neighbor as I would have lots of favors to ask.
Doug
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Post by ET on Jul 2, 2010 11:18:06 GMT -5
Dougedwards Obsessive or in-depth extreme type?  Incredible or penny pinching at it’s finest? ;D Actually Doug this was not an overly difficult project if you break down the components and structure. I started with 2-pieces of 27” SS rod I had laying around and a 3”x 3”x 3/8”- 6” long aluminum angle that I cut in half. Then did a layout for drilling holes in angle for SS rod. Next drilled and tapped holes for set screws to secure SS rod in aluminum angle. Here’s my base and enjoyed a Diet Pepsi. Next had to make 2-sliding brackets with roller bearing for arrows with locking screws to secure brackets in position. That took 2-Diet Pepsi’s. Next was a central bracket where I would use some SS square tubing I had on hand and J-bolts to secure it to the SS rods. That took another Diet Pepsi. What I’m trying to express here other than I like Diet Pepsi that was my stop point for reviewing my next step is when people view a completed project and see what they deem complexity they become intimidated and discouraged of tackling such a project. But break such a project down into pieces/steps and it now isn’t as complex or special tooling required. Anyway this is a fun project for a useful addition for my archery endeavor and the only extra cost was 9-Diet Pepsi’s so far. ;D Ed |
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Post by lastofthebreed on Jul 2, 2010 12:23:24 GMT -5
nice.......i like the way you think!
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Post by Harley on Jul 2, 2010 18:16:11 GMT -5
Ed, I had to scroll back and forth a half dozen times before I could fully appreciate all the features. It's a work of art.
Harley
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Post by dougedwards on Jul 2, 2010 18:34:21 GMT -5
Ed.....I am just amazed that you could put your hands on all of that stuff. I know that if I had a garage sale I would become a millionaire. But as it is I don't know where to find anything when I need it. Bows, crossbows, cases, rifles, chronograph (oops scratch that just shot a hole through it), tree stands, saws, drills, press, fletching tool.......geeesh I just know I have two stainless rods in there somewhere.
Doug
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Post by ET on Jul 2, 2010 22:08:32 GMT -5
Harley
Thanks for the compliment and it did turn out decent so far.
I’m kind of pumped up now for adding that saw attachment. We’ll see how this works out.
In the meantime I enjoy following your threads and others that’s really providing a learning experience for me in the archery area. Hope to catch up a little with you guys one day.
Doug
Point well taken but all my materials don’t always come from my stash. Once and a while I visit metal scrap yards that haul commercial and industrial alloy scrap to find a specific piece/s I need when tinkering. Here I usually work cash (cheaper) and never ask for a receipt. Once it was no charge and I made sure I bought a round of coffee for the boys off the coffee truck. After that there was always an open invitation to visit anytime and usually get some great deals.
Yeah I read about the chronograph incident. I enjoyed seeing you have a real sense of humor from the ribbing you exposed yourself to and took. Yeah I would enjoy having you as a neighbor but I bet we would get into trouble with our women folk with our joint ventures. ;D
Lastofthebreed
Thanks for the encouraging words.
Ed
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Post by ET on Jul 5, 2010 20:31:54 GMT -5
Well it’s about to happen. Lightning struck today and I now have a plan that materialized to go forward with my Saw Attachment. It’s not overly complicated but actually some careful work tolerances required. Basically I need a roller assembly where I can attach a plate to the roller for pivoting up-down action and then attach the motor-saw to the plate. BINGO, love it when a plan comes together. Got it started today and here is where I am at with the roller assembly almost complete on the web of a 6” I-Beam.  At this point even my mini-lathe doesn’t feel left out, as there is now some lathe work. ;D The big thing left is there is a fair bit of detailing to do. But it is a done deal as far as I’m concerned. Hey Dougedwards This time I hade to buy some material. A whole $14.00 for a few pieces of aluminum bar stock and flat bar. But the payoff will be worth it in the end. Ed |
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Post by ET on Jul 7, 2010 11:28:09 GMT -5
Project Summation: Thought I would just do a quick summation of my project because people are probably getting tired of seeing this one. The cutoff saw attachment is basically assembled and fitted to the arrow straightness check portion of the project. There is still a little detailing to do with this attachment like installing a guard for the blade and I have just enough room for that. So no more boring comments and here are some final pictures, as to how it turned out.    Ed |
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Post by Harley on Jul 7, 2010 17:32:40 GMT -5
Ed, your creativity and attention to detail are exceeded only by your modesty.  Harley P.S.: Okay, I'm ready for you to begin the next project. |
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Post by Harley on Jul 7, 2010 17:36:31 GMT -5
Ed, I'm just wondering how you operationalize the cutting. Do you plan to lower the saw through the stationary arrow or lower the saw enough to cut through one wall, then rotate the arrow? I'd worry that lowering the saw all the way through would result in a rougher cut, but I don't know.
Harley
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Post by ET on Jul 7, 2010 20:00:04 GMT -5
Ed, I'm just wondering how you operationalize the cutting. Do you plan to lower the saw through the stationary arrow or lower the saw enough to cut through one wall, then rotate the arrow? I'd worry that lowering the saw all the way through would result in a rougher cut, but I don't know. Harley That is an excellent question that I can't answer just yet. In the 1st recent picture you"ll notice an adjustable stop for controlling the depth of the cut. I was thinking of cutting 1/3 the way through then rotate 1-revolution that the rollers will easily allow me to do. This will ensure the cut is square. As for any burrs on the aluminum arrows I will remove them with the shell reloading tool (proper name eludes me at the moment) for case mouth preparation. My next project is on the mental drawing board. String and cable building jig. ;D Ed |
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Post by Harley on Jul 8, 2010 7:10:18 GMT -5
Ed, you are talking about the VLD (very low drag) inner chamfering tool. I use one on my arrows, also. There's also an outside de-burring tool that you may or may not need.
I think you are right to set the saw depth stop, then lower the saw AS you rotate the arrow.
Harley
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Post by ET on Jul 8, 2010 16:37:09 GMT -5
Harley Thanks for providing the correct name for the tool that eluded my memory. Today I built a guard for my saw attachment and it didn’t turn out to bad. Should the blade ever shatter for any reason at least I won’t be wearing any pieces. Also had to relocate my spring for lifting the saw into the upright position. This works much better now.    This completes the saw attachment mechanically wise. Will be adding a power switch on the side of the main base later. Now for the length adjustment plate at the other end. Ed |
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Post by Harley on Jul 9, 2010 8:44:28 GMT -5
Ed, I'm looking forward to the adjusting arrow length plate. I don't know if you need this suggestion, but think about a "tapering countersink" (I don't really know how to name it) that will have a large enough diameter to contain any nock you may use. For example, the Q.A.D. nock I use has unusually wide "ears" that just barely fit my own retainer.
Harley
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Post by ET on Jul 9, 2010 10:45:29 GMT -5
Ed, I'm looking forward to the adjusting arrow length plate. I don't know if you need this suggestion, but think about a "tapering countersink" (I don't really know how to name it) that will have a large enough diameter to contain any nock you may use. For example, the Q.A.D. nock I use has unusually wide "ears" that just barely fit my own retainer. Harley Harley that’s an excellent idea of using a deep chamfer to accommodate knocks. Thanks for that helpful suggestion. I think you are going to enjoy seeing the adjustable arrow length bracket that I have in mind. Just have a few measurements to account for and should be able to cut arrows from 31” down to almost any size needed. In case you are wondering how I plan to do that just keep in mind that the end bracket where the adjustment for cutting length bracket will attach can also be slid down on the 1/2” SS bars. In the future crossbow shafts no problem. Looks like Monday is going to be another fun day, as I have company from Florida this weekend and can’t start till then. Well maybe Sunday evening I can come out of the starting gate. ;D Ed |
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Post by russkull on Jul 9, 2010 21:04:50 GMT -5
Ed, I am very impressed! I am envious of you machinist skills. I wish I had the equipment and tools to do that kind of thing. Your arrow multi-tool looks very elegant.
Russell
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Post by ET on Jul 10, 2010 21:14:51 GMT -5
Russell Russell thank you for that compliment. Yes it’s really turning out as a decent project. But I have discovered a little glitch and need to modify or remake the center post for the Dial indicator as I have some minor flex occurring. The ¼” aluminum plate is too weak and needs to be dealt with. That’s next on my list. Well a change in plans has occurred for company visiting and I got out of the starting gate this morning. The adjustable length bracket is now complete. Here are a few pictures of the end result.    And one correction needs to be added. My max cutting length is 30.5” and not 31” as previously mentioned. I should have some shafts coming next week and am looking forward to seeing how everything works out for cutting at least. Ed |
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Post by Harley on Jul 11, 2010 14:58:16 GMT -5
Well, I guess that's it, eh, Ed? A one of a kind by any measure, and something to be proud of.
I'd like to hear how well it cuts; don't expect any problems, but look forward to the report.
Harley
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Post by ET on Jul 11, 2010 20:07:08 GMT -5
Harley
She’s one of kind so far and content to how it’s turning out. I do like the all in one station (except fletching) it does provide.
Still that column with minor flexing to correct and then she’s done. Then it’s time for full testing trials.
I also appreciated your suggestion of coning the rear arrow holder/support at the tailstock. The coning affect is from .410” down .250” over 3/8” length. What I like is it shouldn’t matter what type of nock is on the arrow or no nock at all. Again thanks for that tip.
Will report back once I do some cutting to length.
My stock of scrap metal took a little hit but the replenishing process will begin again once I get back to work. ;D
Ed
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Post by Harley on Jul 11, 2010 21:12:36 GMT -5
Ed, just remember to put the reference-length nock (if any) on the new shaft before cutting. Harley |
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Post by ET on Jul 11, 2010 22:26:37 GMT -5
Ed, just remember to put the reference-length nock (if any) on the new shaft before cutting. Harley Good point to remember, thanks. Also I have incorporated a small scale with 1/8" incriments on my adjustable bracket to help with any fine after adjustments to length. Hopefully with your advice I won't need it. Ed |
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Post by dougedwards on Jul 12, 2010 0:43:30 GMT -5
Orrrrr.......you could just do what I do and cut them crooked ;D
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Post by ET on Jul 12, 2010 17:17:28 GMT -5
Orrrrr.......you could just do what I do and cut them crooked ;D ;D ;D Well this morning I got up Hot to Trot with a purpose and got her done. My dial indicator doesn’t even twitch when operating the straightening lever until it makes contact with the arrow. Other than putting Loctite to certain screws this project is Finito. Here are some final pictures.   Ed |
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Post by Harley on Jul 13, 2010 7:13:52 GMT -5
Ed, you should file a patent application, then show this to some manufacturers.
Harley
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Post by ET on Jul 13, 2010 9:11:41 GMT -5
Harley
I find it kind of ironic that you should mention about considering a patent, as this crossed my mind also. But when I started to weigh some factors I don’t see this as being a future product in demand. 15-20 years ago that may have been a different story.
Also most archers are into carbon arrows today and a cutoff saw is commercially available. Heck if the Aramid-kv arrow wasn’t so expensive I’d be trying that one. But for now aluminum arrows can be picked up reasonably cheap and is a good starting point for me. With the straightening attachment I can even salvage a few if they get slightly bent.
On a lighter note this project now has a name and I’ve christened 40/40. ;D
It took roughly 40-hrs to complete and an additional $40 of materials that I didn’t have on hand in my stash ( poor stockpile inventory).
This is one investment time and money wise I don’t believe I’ll regret.
Ed
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Post by dougedwards on Jul 16, 2010 16:49:08 GMT -5
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Post by Harley on Jul 16, 2010 19:04:02 GMT -5
Doug, if nothing else, that's a pretty cool idea for obtaining a correctly sized insert. Thanks.
Harley
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