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Arrows?
Jun 7, 2010 21:27:04 GMT -5
Post by lunchbox on Jun 7, 2010 21:27:04 GMT -5
I was wondering what everyone thought about what kind of arrows seem to be the strongest and or best to use on deer size game? Right now I use GT5575's and just kinda wanted a change.
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Arrows?
Jun 7, 2010 21:45:57 GMT -5
Post by Harley on Jun 7, 2010 21:45:57 GMT -5
Lunchbox, I used the Gold Tips for several seasons; no complaint. (My Mathews dealer recently told me that they have declined in quality, but I don't know if that's true.)
5575 refers to the spine weight; if I remember correctly, in increasing quality, there are Expedition Hunter, Hunter XT and Pro. I'd pass on the Expedition Hunter; the Pro is expensive, so my choice in this brand would be the Hunter XT.
However, I've stopped using them in favor of the Redhead Carbon Maxx that are sold at BassPro; these are straight to .0025" and vary no more than 1 grain per dozen. The arrow weight is minimal compared to most other brands, so you can probably get more speed out of them. I say probably because I don't know what draw weight or spine you'll need. If you are shooting the 5575, then you are probably looking at the Carbon Maxx 3000.
These are not the strongest or most durable arrows, however. I don't remember exactly, but Russkull has just recently posted about the new tough Easton arrows he bought for his 70# bow. Look over his posts or PM him.
Harley
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Post by dougedwards on Jun 8, 2010 9:49:17 GMT -5
Lots of good arrows out there. One key factor of any lot of arrows is spine consistency. Every arrow has a point in it's circumference where it is just a tad bit stronger than the rest of the arrow. It has to do with the way the arrows are put together and constructed. I have read that Victory arrows actually mades a mark on their arrows of this point so that you might be able to position the arrow the same way on the rest each time you shoot.
There has been some testing done concerning the straightness of arrows which found that 90% of archers could find no difference between arrows of .001 and .006 relating to shooting accuracy. The testing also confirmed that a range of 5 grains per dozen arrows had no noticeable affect shooting out to 50 yards. But what did have an affect was spine consistency as some arrows per dozen per manufacturer would not shoot the same POI as the rest in the dozen. There was no correlation of straightness or weight deviances between these errant arrows and the rest. The conclusion was that the spine of the errant arrows was not consistent with the rest of the group.
I always pick out the arrows that shoot the very best with my chosen broadheads to put in my quiver (if I had one). Even when I pay big bucks for Carbon Express Maximas there is usually one or two per dozen that shoot differently from the rest. Sometimes the problem is in the nock or the ends of the arrow have not been adequately squared off.
I would suggest that anyone who is ultimately interested in shooting accuracy get an arrow squaring device if only to check your existing arrows. I cut and square my own arrows. G5 and also Lumenok makes an arrow squaring device that is relatively inexpensive. But this is like anything else. Where does the expense finally end?? I often have to ask myself if I am going just a little too far in my attempt at ultimate shooting accuracy with bows and rifles.
Doug
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Arrows?
Jun 8, 2010 10:44:24 GMT -5
Post by russkull on Jun 8, 2010 10:44:24 GMT -5
I have been staying out of the brush for several days due to a chigger run-in. I am itching to get back to shooting and testing my new arrows. I am going to get out and shoot some more today. Going to compare my heavier spined Eastons to my light Carbon Fury. I have compared at 20 yrds with no diff. in POI. As expected the penetration is much greater with the Easton arrows. Curious to see when I reach a point of demminishing returns.
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Post by Harley on Jun 9, 2010 7:02:37 GMT -5
See Reply #2, above, from Doug:
I'd never considered an arrow squaring device before reading this post; I'd always thought that the insert being pushed down the shaft would ensure that all was well even if the cut-off was out of square.
So, I did a Google search, and found a home made device:
Using a drill press, select a bit very close to the diameter of your arrow shaft; drill through a 2x4 block. Sandwich a strip of coarse sandpaper between this block and a backing block by use of screws. Insert the shaft and rotate.
I made one in a few minutes and will test it when next I cut arrows.
Cost: $0.00
Harley
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Arrows?
Jun 9, 2010 19:00:37 GMT -5
Post by dougedwards on Jun 9, 2010 19:00:37 GMT -5
See Reply #2, above, from Doug: I'd never considered an arrow squaring device before reading this post; I'd always thought that the insert being pushed down the shaft would ensure that all was well even if the cut-off was out of square. So, I did a Google search, and found a home made device: Using a drill press, select a bit very close to the diameter of your arrow shaft; drill through a 2x4 block. Sandwich a strip of coarse sandpaper between this block and a backing block by use of screws. Insert the shaft and rotate. I made one in a few minutes and will test it when next I cut arrows. Cost: $0.00 Harley Wow.....you mean that you can get drill presses, bits, lumber, sand paper and screws for free?!!! Harley you are one lucky guy ;D ;D
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Arrows?
Jun 9, 2010 19:20:10 GMT -5
Post by Harley on Jun 9, 2010 19:20:10 GMT -5
Doug, I probably detect a bit of sarcasm there, but if you were ever touring my basement you'd understand. I think I still have the box from my first BB rifle; I certainly have odds and ends of lumber, screws, etc.
BTW, what do you think of the home made square? That WAS the point of the post.
Harley
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Arrows?
Jun 9, 2010 21:59:45 GMT -5
Post by dougedwards on Jun 9, 2010 21:59:45 GMT -5
Hey Harley......the comment was my poor attempt to be a smart butt. I think that your idea is a good one as long as you are able to keep a long arrow straight up and down with only 1 3/4" two by four at the bottom of the arrow. I think that would depend on how tightly the arrow would fit into the drilled hole in the wood. My Lumenok arrow square also uses sand paper and they sell the little replacement circles of sand paper with a sticky backing at a premium price after the current one wears out. I happen to be all for anything that will save me money on my archery addiction. I would like to develop a home-made arrow detector so I could find some of my errant arrows among the pines in my back yard. There are probably $200 of arrows back there somewhere.
Doug
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Arrows?
Jun 9, 2010 22:07:34 GMT -5
Post by Harley on Jun 9, 2010 22:07:34 GMT -5
Doug, my arrow is so tight in the drilled hole I can barely turn it; I had originally planned to drill through two 2x4 blocks in order to answer the good point you raised about protecting the shaft from wobble, but I didn't need it.
You might remember I lost an arrow and a new G5 pre-season practice point the other day; I got so obsessive looking for it that I used an axe to cut roots, a swingblade for marsh grass, a shovel and a rake. I ended up finding four old arrows I had lost over the years, none usable, but never did find the newly lost arrow.
When you develop it, put me in line for your arrow detector.
Harley
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