Richard's tinkering also..................
Feb 7, 2010 22:20:57 GMT -5
Post by Richard on Feb 7, 2010 22:20:57 GMT -5
In trying to keep things consistent, I made a modification to my lead sled along with the ML. The sled has been working very well for me along with the base I made to keep it on track and return to the same location after each shot. What bothered me was the fact the the forend had to get settled down into the front bag each time the rifle was removed, reloaded and placed back on the sled. So, in keeping with the benchrest fore mat, I built a three inch wide addition to the stock which allows the rifle to lay flat on the rest. Along with this, I installed a 3" wide benchrest bag on the sled. The oak block was attached to the forend via the sling swivel insert. When I built the rifle I made the insert fairly stout and put a 14x28 thread in it. The wood block was was then bedded to the forend so the single bolt holds it firmly in place and cannot shift. This allows the rifle to be put back in the sled and be level and right on my target. It is about as close to a "return to battery" set up as is possible with a rifle that has to be removed to be loaded.
The next little project involved a "mini" bullet starter for use with sabot less bullets. Here was was problem: to get a good tight fit in the bore of my .45, I would size the .451/.452 bullets down to .448" and then knurl up to .451" While this allowed the rifling to somewhat grab the bullet, it was not as tight as I would like. So, I more heavily knurled the bullets up to .452+". At this size, even with my short starter, getting the bullet to engrave the rifling was a chore. So, I came up the the idea to make a mini starter which would be hammered on to start the bullet into the rifling, then continue with my regular short starter and finally the ram rod. I already had the bore guide.....................the one I shot down to the 100 yard berm last week . So all I did was machine an aluminum piece that fit inside the guide and was hollowed out to fit the nose of my favorite bullet, the 200 gr. FTX. Not wanting to smash this aluminum piece, I needed a non-marring hammer. Just so happens I had a piece of nylon that I was able to cut a rectangle, thread and put a little handle on it. The insert is made so it cannot contact the bore/crown when the bullet seats. Now heavily knurled bullets can be engraved into the rifling with little effort. Gonna try it out tomorrow
The next little project involved a "mini" bullet starter for use with sabot less bullets. Here was was problem: to get a good tight fit in the bore of my .45, I would size the .451/.452 bullets down to .448" and then knurl up to .451" While this allowed the rifling to somewhat grab the bullet, it was not as tight as I would like. So, I more heavily knurled the bullets up to .452+". At this size, even with my short starter, getting the bullet to engrave the rifling was a chore. So, I came up the the idea to make a mini starter which would be hammered on to start the bullet into the rifling, then continue with my regular short starter and finally the ram rod. I already had the bore guide.....................the one I shot down to the 100 yard berm last week . So all I did was machine an aluminum piece that fit inside the guide and was hollowed out to fit the nose of my favorite bullet, the 200 gr. FTX. Not wanting to smash this aluminum piece, I needed a non-marring hammer. Just so happens I had a piece of nylon that I was able to cut a rectangle, thread and put a little handle on it. The insert is made so it cannot contact the bore/crown when the bullet seats. Now heavily knurled bullets can be engraved into the rifling with little effort. Gonna try it out tomorrow