Powder funnel's/ module's

[smokeless77]

I had some time to kill today, so I made a couple brass powder funnel's / Rod guide and a few more module's for the two different 45.cal.barrel's.

[jims]

Nice work.

[smokeless77]

Thank's Jims, I think I'm going to try to make a different breech plug maybe something like the one Edge designed,that they use with the remington 700 conversion. The modules are good but if you loose them while in the field they are a pain in the butt make. The head space has to be perfect. With the two differen barrels It is even worse.

[Jon]

Arn't cnc great.
Jon

[ET]

Smokeless77

Got to quote Jim, Nice work.
Working with brass is nice but pricey I found. But hey this is a necessity for the application.

Ed

[smokeless77]

Jon, I wish I could of used a CNC. I used a South Bend "Heavy 10" lathe that is probably older then me. It is slow going but you appreciate it when your finished.

Et I think it was $20.00 for 4 feet of half inch,That was 3 years ago


Thank,s John

[ET]

Jan 10, 2010 20:37:50 GMT -5 smokeless77 said:

Et I think it was $20.00 for 4 feet of half inch,That was 3 years ago


Thank,s John

I have no doubt about the price going up on brass in the last 3-years.
I'm intrigued with your approach on a funnel for the bore. Going to have to make one of those to try. Hard nylon or aluminum is the way I plan to go.

Thanks for sharing.

Ed

[smokeless77]

Et I was going to use the plastic, but the brass I had laying around. When you make the funnel try to taper it to your barrel so it has a nice snug fit. The hole for the loading rod is 3/8", I was thinking of opening that up some and taking a little of the spin-jag so the jag fit's through the funnel while still on the rod. The way it is now the jag has to come off, pour your powder in and put your rod through then you can screw the jag back on. Just something to think about while making it. That is why i made two.

Et keep me posted with new ideas.

John





John

[ET]

Smokeless77

Actually the funnel I hope to build will closely match my chamfer on the muzzle. With the chamfer the sabots get a nice compression start with no shaving of petals. Also no starter is needed.



Tapering to the barrel I have had some practice with building Rexxer’s bullet alignment guide.
This might be a project you would also enjoy.
.

I too look for new ideas and love to share.

Ed

[smokeless77]

ET

That looks very nice. Is it made from aluminum, and did you have to take any off the jag or was there enough meat on the edge of the barrel. This project might be over my limitations. my barrel is crowned so the top of it is completely flat. Very nice job iI like it.

John

[ET]

Smokeless77

The one in the picture is a starter only (Aluminum) and the jag will not come out the back side. But I have another style I use most often with no side port. The bullet/sabot slides in from the top. I also use a ramrod guide that fits into the bore and will also fit into the alignment tool. Will try to provide a picture tomorrow.

Ed

[ET]

Smokeless77

Below is a picture of my bullet alignment tool I use the most at the range.



I just slide my bullet/sabot combo into the top of the tool and use my bore ramrod guide to keep everything as straight as possible for the bullets transition into the bore. I use alignment marks to keep my sabots indexed also.


Below are 2-simple tools that I take to the range and into the field. My choice for a ramrod guide is one that fits into the bore, compliments from an idea that DaveD shared. The other one is a T handle that slips onto the ramrod that makes loading overall easy instead of driving a 3/8” diameter into your palm. There not fancy in anyway and really work well together. My 10ML-II never goes anywhere without these 2-tools.



Ed

[smokeless77]

Ed

That is a nice setup, From looking at the picture now I know what you were talking about. Did you drill the the hole for the rod or was it machined out to fit. I'm thinking the set screw holds the rod to the handle.

Very nice Ed Il have to make one when I get time.

John

[ET]

The T-Handle consists of 4-components as seen below.



The core for the handle is just a 3/8” aluminum rod threaded at one end to secure into the main handle body. It does bottom out against the inside. Next is the core jacket with a filed contour that basically matches the diameter of the main handle body. This jacket happens to be SS tubing. The jacket is slid up on the core and held firmly together in a vise. Next I just drill and tapped a 10/32 hole for the setscrew. The setscrew can’t go below the wall of the SS jacket because this is what locks it all together. The Jacket with its matching contour to the handle won’t allow any rotation.

The only thing I haven’t done or tried yet is putting say a rubber jacket from a hose over the handle portion to reduce the feel of cold say in late fall temps.
This is just a basic approach I played with and works well for me. There are other ways to make a T-Handle and IMO is an asset to have one with muzzle-loading. It saves wear and tear on the hands providing a nice leverage for consistent loading pressure.



Ed

[smokeless77]

Ed

The Handle is a must for the m/ls I shot a doe couple years back, took of running. I reloaded the gun with a rod that had a folding (plastic) handle with a roll pin that it hinged on. It was pretty nippy and the bullet/sabot combo went down hard. The plastic handle broke from the pin and ripped into my hand leaving a good size gash. when I went to look for the deer I think I was tracking my own blood. lol . Ed when I cut tubing, I use a hole saw without the pilot, clamp the tubing on its side in the drill press and use the leading edge of the saw makes for a nice contour. I know you knew that already!

Nice Job Ed
John

[ET]

Jan 13, 2010 1:55:08 GMT -5 smokeless77 said:

Ed

Ed when I cut tubing, I use a hole saw without the pilot, clamp the tubing on its side in the drill press and use the leading edge of the saw makes for a nice contour. I know you knew that already!

Nice Job Ed
John

Actually I didn't know that and have to give it a try.
The handles were made originally without a drill press, just basic hand tools. Today a drill press and mini lathe (7"x12") sit in my little shop area that makes life easier on small projects.

Thanks for the kind words and a tip to look into.


Ed

[smokeless77]

Ed

www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Speedy-Notcher-Tubing-Notcher,3482.html?


Here is one of many to give you an idea.

John

[ET]

Jan 13, 2010 10:02:16 GMT -5 smokeless77 said:

Ed

www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Speedy-Notcher-Tubing-Notcher,3482.html?


Here is one of many to give you an idea.

John

Now I like that tubing notcher and could rig up something like that in my drill press. Thanks for expanding my line of thought with the additional info.

Ed

[ET]

Smokeless77


Well I am now a member of the metal powder funnel club. ;D





Sorry about the picture quality and if I used a flash on the aluminum you wouldn’t see much of anything. It just needs a little cleanup cutting and it’s done. Then into the range box she goes.

Thanks for sharing that idea.

Ed

[smokeless77]

ET

You the man! You did a heck of a job on them. When do we put them on the market. (LOL) Ed what size stock size stock did you use.
Great job

John

[ET]

Jan 18, 2010 21:17:23 GMT -5 smokeless77 said:

ET

You the man! You did a heck of a job on them. When do we put them on the market. (LOL) Ed what size stock size stock did you use.
Great job

John

Thanks for the kind compliment.

I happen to have some 1-1/2" aluminum bar stock as the donner.
Turned it down to about 1.200" because I wanted to keep a decent size funnel.

No one could afford one from me with the time it took to make. ;D ;D

Ed

[smokeless77]

ET

While it is on my mind. In November I took my solid ramrod and put it under the knife. Cut it into four sections on the lathe, drilled and taped each section, locktite 10/32 studs in one end of each rod and top section has folding aluminum handle. Works beautiful.

[ET]

Jan 18, 2010 22:32:29 GMT -5 smokeless77 said:

ET

While it is on my mind. In November I took my solid ramrod and put it under the knife. Cut it into four sections on the lathe, drilled and taped each section, locktite 10/32 studs in one end of each rod and top section has folding aluminum handle. Works beautiful.

Have never tried to build a take-down ramrod. Sounds like a nice carry sectional ramrod. Oh yeah a handle for a ramrod is a must for me. To incorporate a good solid folding handle takes some skill in my books.

Actually I just got into basic machining about 2-years ago by first buying a 7x12 mini lathe and have had a ball with it building stuff. When I can build something useful for my hunting equipment the more joy I get out of it.

Ed