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Post by sw on Jan 24, 2009 10:48:18 GMT -5
I shot traditional MLers for 20+ years at Rendevous competitions. I practiced incessantly - often 20-25 cans of powder a summer. The people at Dixie Gun Works knew me well. I own an exact replica of the 1857 Gremler Hawkin, except it has progressive twist, a Douglas barrel, and is all modern steel/L&R locks, etc. Last gun made by Ozark Mountain Arms. 35 5/8" barrel, 50 cal - HEAVY, but not enough. I installed 2 Edward's recoil reducers - what a difference. Recoil reduced >50%, groups reduced about 25%. I became a believer. I am installing 2 Benelli recoil reducers in the stock of my 40 cal and placing a Weaver T-36 to see what the 40 can do. This fall, after the range work is all complete, I will likely leave 1 recoil reducer in the stock. They are heavy but help balance out the heavier 40 cal barrel(and the heavy 45 cal barrel). For anyone who wants to reduce the recoil of their ML-2, regardless of caliber, 1 or 2 of these for range work will reduce the recoil significantly which will help you and your scope. Just a thought. Placement: take off the recoil pad, insert an old wash cloth into the opening and then insert a thick plastic bag(freezer bag is what I use) into the stock, place the recoil reducer(s) in the bag and fill with expanding foam(from Wal-Mart, of course). I can just pull on the wash cloth and it's strong enough to pull everything out. Allow the foam to set up over night, then trim off the part that has expanded out and replace recoil pad.
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Post by craigf on Jan 24, 2009 11:32:33 GMT -5
SW, I completely agree, I just have one, but it makes a big difference. Between an 1.5" recoil pad and a 16 ounce Hg recoil reducer in the stock, a 300 grain bullet feels like a 250 grain bullet. I am very happy with the results.
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Post by mshm99 on Jan 24, 2009 12:00:22 GMT -5
SW
I learn some thing new every day on this board. I was wondering about the best way to do this.
Thank You. mshm
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Post by youp50 on Jan 25, 2009 6:27:09 GMT -5
If you are using the expanding insulating foam, like Great Stuff, have your spray water bottle ready. When it has expanded to the point of coming out of the stock spray with water. It is of the same poly something or other as Gorilla Glue and they can be cured with water. The cans are usually one time use, I can find some place around this house to empty the can and maybe use a dimes' less energy.
Water is really only a surface cure, it will stop the outward expansion. Let the whole thing set overnight as stated.
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Post by rangeball on Jan 26, 2009 9:28:37 GMT -5
Is HG a brand or type of recoil reducer?
I'm familiar with the edwards, had even thought about ordering one or two, but could never find feedback about how well they worked.
They work?
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Post by Harley on Jan 26, 2009 10:11:03 GMT -5
Rangeball, Hg is the chemical symbol for mercury. It has high inertia, so resists the recoil. Brownell's sells the one I use.
Harley
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Post by ricksalisbury01 on Jan 26, 2009 10:14:55 GMT -5
RangeBall.....Hg is the nomenclature for elemental mercury from the Periodic Table of Elements. This just a mercury recoil “reducer.” In fact, the “reducer” only changes the pulse time of energy as it relates to the felt shot. As the shock wave (or kick), is spread out over time, perceived “kick” is less.
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Post by rangeball on Jan 26, 2009 10:26:20 GMT -5
Thanks. Never took chemistry... Which works better, the mercury or the edwards mechanical? From what I've read, many seem to think the weight of the mercury is where the "reduction" is coming from, and adding similar weight gets the same result. If I remember right, the edwards uses a weight suspended between two different strength pistons that oscillate back and forth to get the reduction, and only weighs about 4 ounces. Anyone ever done a head to head comparison?
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Post by hunter on Feb 15, 2009 18:37:56 GMT -5
I have an edwards mechanical and a mercury reducer (Flinck-x) that I want to install in a synthetic stock. I am also wundering which will work better. Another question when installing in a synthetic stock, If I press the reducer into the existing foam, will that work or does it have to be resting against something solid inside the stock?
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Post by jims on Feb 15, 2009 19:17:30 GMT -5
I do not have a Savage syn. stock but I do have a Brown Precision graphite/glass stock on a 375 H&H Imp. Mag. When I put the recoil reducer in I put it in a thin metal cylinder tube and then put that in the stock. I had a rubber washer on each end of it and taped the reducer so it would not rattle or move. I am not saying that is the way to do it but it kept it quiet and in place. I have a recoil reducer in my trap shotgun (wood stock) in a similar manner except for the metal tube. Other trap shooters sometimes have the reducers loose and rattling about, I would think that would "hog" out the foam over time in the synthetic.
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Post by sw on Feb 15, 2009 20:19:51 GMT -5
Is HG a brand or type of recoil reducer? Rangeball, Sorry, I was a chemist in my past life.
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Post by rangeball on Feb 17, 2009 9:31:38 GMT -5
No problem
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lc
Forkhorn
Posts: 72
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Post by lc on Feb 17, 2009 11:57:46 GMT -5
When I installed mine (dead Mule) I dug the foam out along the top of the buttstock same line as the barrel ,wrapped it in aluminum foil (so I could salvage it easily) put it so it was tight against the recoil pad and re spray foamed it. My grandson thinks he's ready to move-up to a full load with it!
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Post by dougedwards on Feb 17, 2009 12:28:56 GMT -5
Is there an advantage to installing two smaller (in weight) reducers instead of one large one? Just wondering.
Doug
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