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Post by dxt20 on Aug 20, 2009 16:32:34 GMT -5
i have a block it s not a 4by4 or anything its just a block. great target but it will not take very many broadheads like they say it will. does anyone have any recommendations for good broadhead only target. i would get a new block 4 by 4 or fusion but i really do not like the new "game face," at all. thank you
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Post by wilmsmeyer on Aug 20, 2009 17:01:09 GMT -5
I will start an argument here by saying that there are no good broadhead targets. Broadheads cut and separate material. When you shoot targets you also want to be able to pull your arrows out. Nothing I know of heals itself.
Another thing. Do you want to shoot at "dots" or behind the shoulder of a life size deer target? If you want "dots" get a "block". That will give you the most shots.
If you want life-like targets, I recommend the mechenzie full size deer and plan on 1-2 replacement midsections a year....a cost of being very proficient. Everything has a cost. I can't focus on bullseyes when I shoot my bow, but aiming behind the shoulder seems more natural to me.
Since the mid 90's I have shot only deer targets and only broadheads. I bust them up in the sweet spot quick on broadside shots and then turn them around. When a hole is about through it I start shooting them at various quartering angles...more life. Then I replace the mid-section.
There is no magic in any of these targets. You cut stuff and it gets detached. Then you replace them....or part of them.
Get your wallet out...venison is expensive
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Post by sw on Aug 20, 2009 19:47:08 GMT -5
I agree with Wilmsmeyer. If you shoot an expandible broadhead, things can be simplier.
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Post by dougedwards on Aug 20, 2009 20:01:44 GMT -5
Don't the broadhead targets strip the fletchings from your arrows because of shooting so deeply into them?
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Post by wilmsmeyer on Aug 21, 2009 5:05:05 GMT -5
The only way you would shoot that deeply into a broadhead target is if you have a target that's all shot up....with a weak spot developing from dozens of hits. At that point your arrows may actuallt wizz through the target
Although you may not strip the fletching off your arrows, it's doesn't do them any good. Fletchings worst enemy is a good 3 shot group with broadheads....if you know what I mean. Makes me grimmace and smile at the same time.
I have started a routine a few years ago that has improved my arrow life, my target life and my accuracy. Instead of shooting 3-5 arrows at one time, I only shoot 1. Then I walk up and get it and walk back. I seem to be more steady with every shot....never hit my fletching....and shoot less into the target.
If you just get into a routine of shooting say 10 arrows a day, every day for 2 months before the season, that should be plenty for getting your muscles and mind ready for the real thing.
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Post by dougedwards on Aug 21, 2009 5:45:51 GMT -5
I have never tried THE BLOCK but have tried about every other type of broadhead target and even when they are brand new I only have about 4-5" of fletched arrow sticking out to pull the arrow from the target. I even spray my arrows with silicon lubricant before each shot to make them easier to pull out. It doesn't take very long at all to weaken spots on the target enough to have most of my arrow sticking out of the back of the target and then I have to pull from the broadhead end. I am fortunate that I have never been sliced from the broadhead.
I would never shoot more than one arrow at a time and it's not like I shoot from 20 yards either. My zero range is 30 yards and all of my shooting is from 30-60 yards and I still have to re-fletch all of my arrows frequently. This problem along with the summer heat in humid Virginia has discouraged me from shooting my crossbow.
I have been to all of the sporting good stores with this problem and they all suggest that I only shoot field points until right before season but for some reason I hate shooting anything that is not preparing me for the field. Shooting fixed broadheads from a 225 lb Exomax just destroys targets in short fashion but my next purchase will be THE BLOCK and I will report on how that works out.
Doug
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Post by Dave W on Aug 21, 2009 6:01:29 GMT -5
Doug, you can go to Cabelas site, click on a product and usually there are quite a few reviews of the products. Made picking out new bow gear easier for me.
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Post by dougedwards on Aug 22, 2009 18:29:18 GMT -5
Hey......I found where I can get a 6'x6' BLOCK target for $300. Not too bad when you think about it! I wonder how many arrows with broadheads it would take to wear that thing out?
Doug
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Post by wilmsmeyer on Aug 23, 2009 5:52:55 GMT -5
6 foot by 6 foot? How do you move it without a fork truck? And if your arrows start disappearing....how do you get 'em out?
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Post by dougedwards on Aug 23, 2009 6:22:08 GMT -5
6 foot by 6 foot? How do you move it without a fork truck? And if your arrows start disappearing....how do you get 'em out? ;D ;D ;D the local archery shop had one that they use to demonstrae their products indoors. I have no clue as to how they got it there but they did say that they could get me one. It's dimensions are 6 feet wide x 6' tall and although I couldn't see the depth I am assuming probably about only 2 feet deep. Even so I bet it is still heavy. Doug |
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Post by dougedwards on Aug 23, 2009 19:14:28 GMT -5
I thought I might post some pictures of a Bitzenburger fletching jig while we are on the subject of damaged fletchings.  This unit is sturdy enough to stand alone or you can secure it to a surface with bolts. Before you begin to replace a damaged fletching you must remove all fletchings and glue from the arrow. Even though you may have fletchings in good shape on the arrow it will be virtually impossible for you to measure the exact spacing that will be needed between each particular vane. (Three are shown on this arrow). This device will do that for you simply by turning the arrow holder.  You would simply turn this arrow holder until it clicks and then you are ready to install your next fletching at exactly the right spot on the arrow. However, before you can use this device to fletch arrows with flat or half moon nocks you will be required to purchase a very inexpensive adapter.  This rubber adapter fits very tightly on the end of the arrow and allows the typical nock to engage with the Bitzenburger arrow holder. So before you can start you must strip all fletching material from the arrow including any glue with a sharp knife. I also use some sand paper to further clean the surface and then wipe clean with acetone and then wipe good with a rag. There are many types of glue on the market to attach the vanes but recently there has been introduced a very fast drying glue that allows the arrow to be ready to shoot in just seconds after you apply. It is offered by Pine Archery Products as well as other manufacturers and although a little more expensive than the typical glue used to fletch arrows it is well worth it in my opinion.  The Bitzenburger Jig utilizes a metal clamp with a strong spring which attaches to the unit by two magnets.  After applying the glue very uniformly onto the side of the vane place the vane in the clamp at a place that has been pre-marked by setting a fletched arrow in the unit and marking a spot on the clamp where the bottom of the vane would need to be.   Leaving the arrow in the holder you attach the clamp to the place that the arrow holder adapter fits into the indention at the bottom of the clamp and the magnets hold everything in place. With the new faster drying glue you can fletch an arrow in about 10 minutes and then take it outside and shoot it. The whole procedure is pretty much idiot proof and the toughest part is applying the glue in small amounts but uniformly to the vane. If glue spills over onto the sides of the vane it will make the removal of the clamp from the attached vane very difficult.This clamp is for straight or 1% slanted vanes but right and left helical clamps are also available. |
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Post by huntingmike on Aug 24, 2009 18:35:28 GMT -5
I have 2 of those jigs like Doug is showing I would part with very easily if anyone is interested. I also have an arrow straightener to go with it.
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Post by bloodtrailer on Aug 27, 2009 10:08:01 GMT -5
Use 3-D targets doesn't matter the maker  as you cut a hole w/board heads take spray in foam insulation (5-6$ a can) and repair the hole, use light brown spray paint after the foam drys, you can trim the foam with a bread knife makes one 3-D core/ midsection ;D last for years!!!!!!!! watch out this foam is very tacky will stick to anything but plastic trash bags(use them as molding liners or drop cloth) use rubber gloves or you will be stuck with it on your hands  |
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Post by dougedwards on Aug 27, 2009 12:43:45 GMT -5
Use 3-D targets doesn't matter the maker as you cut a hole w/board heads take spray in foam insulation (5-6$ a can) and repair the hole, use light brown spray paint after the foam drys, you can trim the foam with a bread knife makes one 3-D core/ midsection ;D last for years!!!!!!!! watch out this foam is very tacky will stick to anything but plastic trash bags(use them as molding liners or drop cloth) use rubber gloves or you will be stuck with it on your hands WOW!!! That really works? How long will the foam hold up after installation? |
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Post by mike3132 on Aug 27, 2009 20:22:46 GMT -5
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Post by bloodtrailer on Aug 27, 2009 21:46:44 GMT -5
YES IT WORKS!when you arrows start passing through to the fletching take a new can of foam and fill in the holes it will cure over night and be ready minus the paint . if you don't care how it looks skip the trimming w/bread knife. I usually re-due a target 2-3 times a season ( $5x3=15, 1 new core $55 and up.) The tighter you group the more you need to fill in , try to spread (pick a spot,as long as it's in the vitals) out saving your target life and arrows from hitting each other. I have an old delta deer, legs long gone, filled in with foam for 6years looks like road kill in the heat I just pick a spot and shoot. I've done this to my glendale the whole insert is spray foam, and have repaired several mcknzies(pig wood chuck deer ) AND YOU CAN PULL THE ARROWS OUT EASY!!! ;D ;D  I shoot 70lb 27in goldtip carbon with 100gr muzzy 3 blade 274ft per secound |
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Post by sagittarius on Aug 28, 2009 8:10:04 GMT -5
Guys, Go to any pet shop, ask them when their next shipment of fish comes in if you can have the Styrofoam boxes they come in. Most will be glad to give you all you want. (saves the trouble of having to throw them away) Once you get them, cut them into pieces and layer them together until you have the desired thickness you want. Just attach them with packing tape on the ends. They won't last long but they're free and plenty more where they came from. They won't damage or dull your broadheads much either. Beats destroying an expensive target like the block and others.  |
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Post by bloodtrailer on Aug 28, 2009 14:25:44 GMT -5
Heck if you want free, I live at the Jersey Shore,before 3-D targets were around we would wait till after a storm and then collect the "dock foam" that washes up from broken docks, some of the foam is Very large and would last all season.(good use for a bow fishing rig ;D) Messy with all those little white pills, that 's what I use as a back stop in my garage 4x4x18in. Also check with foam insulation makers (foam board) they are glad to get rid of unusable parts,saves them from dumpster $ cost
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Post by huntingmike on Aug 28, 2009 14:59:11 GMT -5
The best target I ever had was made from boat flotation. The kind boat manufactures put in their boats. My Aunt worked at Sea Ray and took an empty box and filled it with the excess. It lasted many years. It was like the spray foam bloodtrailer was talking about. She no longer works there.  |
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Post by parkj5 on Sept 7, 2009 5:13:02 GMT -5
huntingmike i sent you a pm thanks
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Post by smokeeter on Sept 12, 2009 10:39:44 GMT -5
I said this before but it's worth mentioning again.
the bestest and least expensive broadhead target is a pile of clear sand.No repairs necessary just the occasional rerake. It dulls broadheads something fierce but they come out clean and shinny.
Just make a 3 sided enclosure and dump a 1/2 yrd of the sand in a pile , if you cover it it's even better. Beware it's hard on broadheads after freeze up.
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Post by bloodtrailer on Sept 25, 2009 8:47:46 GMT -5
:oAnd cats love the sand !  |
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Post by artjr338wm on Mar 18, 2010 18:45:01 GMT -5
I have one other suggestion that might work.
Use the INTERNET or the phone book or any other source you can think of to see if there is a company near where you live that makes closed cell foam, open cell foam or both. Once you find where they are (usually in a large industrial park) give them a visit and first see if they have any bails or any loose foam in any dumpsters and grab them, if they are not accessible then ask and ask if you can have a bail of their waist foam. There is such a company near where I live and I use to get HUGE 3' high by 5' long by 3'deep bails of foam waist cut offs, which were basically ribbons of foam insulation.
I say "Use to" because they wised up and started selling their waist products to archery target makers among other companies. Last time I visited them I ended up dealing with the plant manager and he would only give me the end of a roll of foam, barely enough to make a 40" long x 3' high x 40" deep target. I offered him $100 for a bail, but he said it would be against Co. rules to do so as how could he categorize the sale? I said use the $$$ to by pizzas for you employees, but it was a no go. He also gave me the distinct impression this was a 1x only deal.
If such a company is near any of you, maybe you can enjoy the luck in getting either a bail or some foam to make a a target, hopefully for free.
Wilms I correct in saying there is no such think as a "self healing" archery target. That term is 1000% advertising BS/hype or AKA a lie. Other wise why will most clubs who host 3-D shoots expel you if they catch you using BH tipped arrows? No target that I have ever seen will last that long if you shoot it with BHs often. You are basically using your BHs to make over lapping cuts and bore your way through the target, it is that simple. It is inevitable that you will bore your way completely through if you shoot it W/BHs on a regular basis.
One of the reasons about 10yrs ago I went to the 1.125" Wasp SST Boss was I had my last free HUGE archery target stolen and was left with making one of my own. I could not bring myself to spend 100s & 100s of $$$ on OTC targets to combine into 1 lrg target, so I made my own. The Wasp SST Boss BH are advertised as impacting to the same POA as your field tips, so I gave them a try. Sure enough after about 500 or so shots they did actually hit to the sane POA as did my field points so I felt confident in practicing with them instead of my BH all the time. Now I shoot FPs about 75% and my Boss SSTs about 25%. My McKenzie target and my HM targets are lasting much longer between repairs.
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Post by artjr338wm on Mar 18, 2010 18:52:55 GMT -5
Doug where can one get one of these 6'x6' targets? and can they be cut in half?
One word of caution about using cans of expanding foam for making a archery target. I tried it and I did a test run by spraying a few cans into a wooden box lined with visqueen as type of release agent and compressed it and allowed it to dry for 2-3 days. I had a small window cut into the plywood covered with card board so I could remove it and stick a damaged arrow into it to see how it worked. The foam was still soggy wet and not dry and got all over my arrow. I never tied again to get it to work, although I should as it would be a rather cheap and easy to fix target.
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as you cut a hole w/board heads take spray in foam insulation (5-6$ a can) and repair the hole, use light brown spray paint after the foam drys, you can trim the foam with a bread knife makes one 3-D core/ midsection ;D last for years!!!!!!!! watch out this foam is very tacky will stick to anything but plastic trash bags(use them as molding liners or drop cloth) use rubber gloves or you will be stuck with it on your hands 
