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Post by cowhunter on Jan 19, 2015 16:32:24 GMT -5
Long ago I used Teflon tape, but for the last four years I have only used anti-seize grease. I saw no possible need for tape. Now I may have a slight blow-back or loss of pressure issue which I've been told might be cured with tape. In another application on an entirely different muzzleloader (Swing-Lock), I'm required to put two layers of pink tape on the threads of a small primer holding tube. So with the Rempac with a Savage plug, how should I put on Teflon tape to help prevent blow-back or pressure loss? Should I put two layers on? Should I completely cover all the threads on the Savage plug? Is white tape good enough? I do know enough to put the tape on so that it does not unwind while twisting the plug in, but that is about all I know.
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Post by dannoboone on Jan 19, 2015 17:25:34 GMT -5
At first, I used grease, but blow back was getting by on the 10MLII. Then went to the white tape, but that didn't hold after a couple dozen shots. Now I use the yellow, two tight wraps, a very light coating of grease for lube while screwing it in, and have no problems.
I completely cover all threads.
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Post by bestill on Jan 19, 2015 17:34:02 GMT -5
I use pink tape which Thompson Center sells it works great. By itself no lubricant. I wrap plug from front all the way to hex.
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Post by Richard on Jan 19, 2015 17:40:35 GMT -5
Blue, yellow or pink. They are all much tougher (thicker) than the white which is very thin. Richard
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Post by Alabama on Jan 19, 2015 17:43:14 GMT -5
I use the yellow tape as well. The yellow tape (gas line tape) is thicker than the white. I tape entire threads, 2 full wraps. Have 0 blow back.
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Post by kbrezlin on Jan 19, 2015 18:01:51 GMT -5
Switched to the "blue monster" tape, 2 wraps over all the threads this year. I just got tired of cleaning off nickel never seize.
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Post by airborneike on Jan 19, 2015 19:32:35 GMT -5
Cowhunter,
Much depends on the type metal the BP is made of.
Stainless on stainless with a snug fit is asking for trouble with galling if some kind of anti-seize is not used. Carbon steel is not immune either.
Teflon tape does not provide the lubricity needed for stainless on stainless situations although the tape provides some protection but not enough. Teflon tape provides sealing where anti-seize is not as an effective sealant.
A lot depends on how tight the BP threads fit inside the barrel...tight fit, definitely anti-seize... loose fit, teflon tape and maybe as Dannoboone said a little anti-seize too.
Anti-seize is messy but a galled stuck BP is a much bigger headache and I have repaired more than one galled stuck BP.
Don't have all the answers but from experience, one needs to be cautious with tight fitting Stainless parts.
Best,
Mike
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Post by Richard on Jan 19, 2015 20:56:14 GMT -5
You can say that again Mike.
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Post by lwh723 on Jan 19, 2015 21:26:52 GMT -5
I use the yellow tape. I put a couple of wraps on. I like to put a very light coating of antisieze on the plug before I cover it with tape more as a rust preventative than anything else.
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Post by 10ga on Jan 19, 2015 21:28:50 GMT -5
I have gone to yellow or pink tape and 2+ wraps. BUT, Never a problem with ante-seize however the tape is so much nicer to use. Don't have to paint the house so often, LOL! 10
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Post by airborneike on Jan 19, 2015 23:36:52 GMT -5
Yeah, Richard, Just ask me about the time Davis and me nearly bought a $1200.00 Bat action because of galling.
Sweating bullets is an understatement!
I believe there is a "Murphys Law" corollary that says, "Do it long enough and it will happen !!!"
Mike
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Post by cowhunter on Jan 20, 2015 12:11:43 GMT -5
Thanks everyone. Mike, what is galling and what causes it?
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Post by dannoboone on Jan 20, 2015 13:39:48 GMT -5
A lot depends on how tight the BP threads fit inside the barrel...tight fit, definitely anti-seize... loose fit, teflon tape and maybe as Dannoboone said a little anti-seize too. Best, Mike I should have been more specific. I've used high temp bearing grease and Hoppe's gun greese. Anti-seize is a little too messy for that app for me. That stuff goes onto the vent liner threads. Cowhunter, galling usually happens with stainless on stainless threads. Metal gets tightened enough that it starts "rolling", flaking (don't really know the correct term) which mechanically locks the threads together. On the farm we called it "stripping the threads". It also happens when badly fitting undies rub against the inside of your thighs.
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Post by rambler on Jan 20, 2015 13:57:50 GMT -5
A lot depends on how tight the BP threads fit inside the barrel...tight fit, definitely anti-seize... loose fit, teflon tape and maybe as Dannoboone said a little anti-seize too. Best, Mike I should have been more specific. I've used high temp bearing grease and Hoppe's gun greese. Anti-seize is a little too messy for that app for me. That stuff goes onto the vent liner threads. Cowhunter, galling usually happens with stainless on stainless threads. Metal gets tightened enough that it starts "rolling", flaking (don't really know the correct term) which mechanically locks the threads together. On the farm we called it "stripping the threads". It also happens when badly fitting undies rub against the inside of your thighs.
I've heard this referred to as "chapping" as in a "chapped ask" But then I digress
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Post by ronnie on Jan 20, 2015 15:49:57 GMT -5
I use sheet graphite on my breach plug.
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Post by 12ptdroptine on Jan 20, 2015 16:20:03 GMT -5
Bad fitting undies...sweat... We also refer to this condition as "Monkey Butt"... and will flat ruin your outing Drop
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Post by rambler on Jan 20, 2015 16:33:16 GMT -5
Bad fitting undies...sweat... We also refer to this condition as "Monkey Butt"... and will flat ruin your outing Drop Here ya go drop, just a little comic relief lol
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Post by BuckDoeHunter on Jan 20, 2015 17:09:19 GMT -5
LMAO
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Post by deertroy1 on Jan 20, 2015 18:26:18 GMT -5
Cowhunter, Teflon tape does not provide the lubricity needed for stainless on stainless situations although the tape provides some protection but not enough. Teflon tape provides sealing where anti-seize is not as an effective sealant. Best, Mike Apparently there is a gray Teflon tape available that addresses seizing, galling and corrosion of stainless steel? I have no experience with it however.
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Post by Jon on Jan 20, 2015 18:40:01 GMT -5
I got a couple of rolls of the gray SS tape from a friend of mine that works on biotic parts. It works well.
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Post by kash913 on Jan 20, 2015 20:26:15 GMT -5
Here what I was told to using in the swing lock
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Post by Deleted on Jan 20, 2015 20:29:18 GMT -5
Put your switch cover on kash913! You're killing me!
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Post by kash913 on Jan 20, 2015 20:35:01 GMT -5
Put your switch cover on kash913! You're killing me! It's hard to find a good llike Electrician these days. II have to tell my wife to get that done. Lol
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Post by rambler on Jan 20, 2015 20:36:34 GMT -5
Here what I was told to using in the swing lock Good stuff, non metal. It's what Tom told me to use on his dies also
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Post by dans on Jan 20, 2015 21:10:29 GMT -5
I use the pink Teflon tape. I apply it by wrapping counter clockwise from the vent end. I then chase the threads with my thumbnail and apply a light coat of antisieze. I use the silver or gold hitemp stuff from the auto parts store. My tape doesn't ball up and makes a great seal. I have never had a stuck breech plug using this method.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 20, 2015 21:23:42 GMT -5
Put your switch cover on kash913! You're killing me! It's hard to find a good llike Electrician these days. II have to tell my wife to get that done. Lol My guess is the painters took it off with their putty knife, ruined it and then lost it
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Post by giannid on Jan 20, 2015 21:47:40 GMT -5
Is the pink and yellow stuff available at lowes or home depot? If not where do you but it? Only have seen white.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 20, 2015 21:50:41 GMT -5
Yes lowes and Home Depot have it. It is usually in an awkward spot halfway down the plumbing isle.
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Post by airborneike on Jan 21, 2015 0:55:27 GMT -5
Cowhunter,
Metal galling usually occurs when using softer metals that rub against each other without lubrication. As friction and associated heat begins to build, small amounts of the metal begin to rub off one surface and attach themselves to the other surface and begins a chain of events that lead to an actual "cold welding" of the parts. Any small metal flakes or "swarf" as machinists call it, that is left in the thread path will exacerbate the problem.
A tight fit and rapid movement are also risk factors. The preferred lubricant for stainless steel should contain molybdenum disulphide in the mix such as that showed by Kash913 in the above pics.
One thing to remember when installing or removing a BP is if it begins to tighten more than normal in mid stride, stop and carefully work the plug back and forth a tiny bit at a time and you may be able to remove it. If the plug gets extremely tight do not try to gorilla it out, you will only damage the barrel threads to the point of no fixing. The bp can usually be bored out and the barrel threads cleaned up. Not so if you try to force the plug out.
Fortunately this is not a common problem in our MLs but the potential is there. If the BP fit is tight enough to require more than finger pressure to reach seal, then it can happen.
When machining stainless barrels to fit actions and for BPS one has to be diligent to wash all the shavings and metal dust off the parts or great weeping and gnashing of teeth may be the rule of the day...ask me how I know...argh!!!
You probably have done yourself a big favor by using anti-seize over the years.
Best,
Mike
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Post by kbrezlin on Jan 21, 2015 7:03:51 GMT -5
I get the blue monster tape from the plumbing house. The other thing I have been doing is spraying out the thread area where the breech plug threads in with carburetor cleaner to make sure I get the threads as clean as they can be. Muzzle down it runs out the barrel washing out any solvent left after cleaning.
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