700ML Lessons Learned

[lwh723]

1) Even SS 700ML's rust. No matter how good the guy says it looks, get pictures before you buy. Apparently, "no pitting" is defined differently in other parts of the country than it is in Iowa. If you come across a Robert Wayland from OK selling a SS 700ML with "no pitting," do not buy! If you're ok with the pitting, be ready to remove a snapped off scope mount screw!

2a) When driving the firing pin cross bolt out, drive from the side where the pin is recessed a little bit. If you pick the side that's flush with the cocking piece, you can have a battle on your hands.

2b) If you haven't drilled the hole straight enough for the drill bit to go all the way through, that retention pin isn't going in easily!

3) Take your time when grinding the firing pin down. It doesn't take long to go too far!

4) Jeremy & Jesse's screw in the rear of the bolt trick works really well when pressing on the bolt nose

5) Thoroughly check the screw holes in the receiver before removing the barrel. If the action or scope mount screws have bottomed out on the barrel threads, it can be a very bad deal! If they are flattened, I grind the barrel threads off with a little dremel bit.

6) This problem was first identified by Fishhawk. On some McGowen barrels the recess for the breech plug nose isn't deep enough, and the plug is contacting on the tip instead of back on the primary shoulder. Grind or sand a few thousandeths off until it's contacting on the appropriate shoulder.

[Deleted]

to add a little to what Luke has said

1) most ss actions that have pitting is directly behind the breech plug area and is not visible until you open the bolt, while it dont hurt the function if you want a "perfect" build steer clear.

2) I use a spring loaded starter punch to drive pins with, at least as far as it will push them, with this method all that is needed is hand pressure and its much easier to control placement with less chance of marring something..

2b) I always drill through completely from each side after penetration is made, this way you know the pin will go straight through the cocking piece, care must be taken when drilling or the drill bit will snap off. I drill from each side using cutting fluid and then drill completely through when the holes meet..

3) always bottom the new firing pin out in the cocking piece and then grind to length BEFORE drilling to install the pin. this way if you get it short all you have to do is unscrew it slightly to get some more length

4) I use a copper hammer and a block of oak to install my boltnoses, its easier than a press imo.so dont fret if you dont have access to a press or vice that will open wide enough.. just be careful of where you place the bolt in relation to the handle. they are soldered on and you can break them off. I have installed 30 plus using this method with no mishaps yet..

5) ditto on what Luke said. you can have a super clean reciever and if the barrel threads are mashed you will have <*&$ removing the barrel. to add to this, 95 % of ss recievers just screw right off but not so with the blued ones.. always use penetrating oil in the base holes and action screw hole for a couple days before removal. kroil or pb blaster works well.

[10ga]

I've got a cheap .50 cal 700ML soaking right now, PB Blaster alternating with WD 40. All things considered ($) it might be some time before I can move ahead. The youngest daughter, 24, is gettin hitched in about 4 weeks and the disposeable $ are kinda scarce for the forseeable future. It's nice to know that the SML smiths are so capeable! 10

[Deleted]

Luke is that why you bead blast all of your SS 700 actions? To remove all corrosion?
Do you blast your blued actions, and then re-blue them?

[lwh723]

May 27, 2012 18:00:36 GMT -5 Earnhardt said:

Luke is that why you bead blast all of your SS 700 actions? To remove all corrosion?
Do you blast your blued actions, and then re-blue them?

That's one of the reasons I bead blast some of the SS actions. It also makes them look like new and match the bead blasted barrel.

I don't deal with a lot of blued ones. The ones that I have people have just used them as is or sanded them and used alumahyde or krylon. I think McGowen will blue a complete receiver for $100 or so, but then you might as well track down a SS one.

[lwh723]

Thanks for chiming in Bil. You didn't have to stop at five. I'm going to keep adding to my list.

I slapped my forehead when I read your suggestion for not drilling the firing pin until after it's ground down. Used that tonight. I've gotten pretty good at it, but your way makes it 10 times easier!