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Post by rangeball on Apr 4, 2012 15:21:05 GMT -5
When I slapped my action in the remington VLS stock, I was only able to get about 2.25 turns on the front action screw. That seemed pretty light, so I ordered new screws from brownells. Cut the one I needed a bit longer, and it's too long.
Took the action out of the stock, and the original screw only goes in 3 turns before bottoming out on the barrel threads. Does this sound right? I suspected it would be more.
Instead of messing with the new screw to gain another half turn, I just put the original screw back in.
With only this much engagement should I use some loc-tite or something on it?
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Post by Al on Apr 4, 2012 15:38:10 GMT -5
front screw will bottom out on the barrel threads in about 3 turns like you seen. Always been good enough for me.  |
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Post by rangeball on Apr 4, 2012 15:48:22 GMT -5
Good to know. I can cross another thing off my list  |
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Post by fishhawk on Apr 4, 2012 17:58:08 GMT -5
I usually take a screw longer than needed and flatten the thread end as much as possible to get as many turns as possible. Usually I can get 3 1/4-3 1/2 turns. Then I slowly shorten the screw until it will tighten 1/4-1/2 turn less to get as much engagement as possible. This is another reason that I turn my front triggerguard screw into a 1/4-28 pillared action screw.
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Post by Jon on Apr 4, 2012 18:11:18 GMT -5
I liked Richards way he tightens the barrel marks the barrel threads removes the barrel and takes an end mill and clearances that spot so he can get all the threads possible. He had a write up on it maybe he will chime in?
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Post by fishhawk on Apr 4, 2012 18:27:07 GMT -5
I liked Richards way he tightens the barrel marks the barrel threads removes the barrel and takes an end mill and clearances that spot so he can get all the threads possible. He had a write up on it maybe he will chime in? Great idea! I have had to mill flattened barrel threads away to remove old barrels because of too long of screws. |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 4, 2012 19:32:42 GMT -5
here is the way i get the screws "just right"
mark the screw pushed up through the bottom metal with three to four threads showing, cut to length then blacken the end with a sharpie. screw it in until only snug and take it out..it will have little cross marks on it where the screw threads are hitting . file off a little at a time remarking and rechecking until it no longer touches when torqued down......
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Post by DBinNY on Apr 13, 2012 10:06:55 GMT -5
I took the eustachian out and thinned it a little (the top of course) on the lathe to make my screw "longer". This rests tight on the bottom of the pillar.
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