|
|
Post by lwh723 on Feb 18, 2012 19:50:25 GMT -5
So I pulled a couple (ok 5 or 6  ) 700ML barrels this weekend. Two of them gave me a load of trouble. They broke loose fine, and were unscrewing fairly easily for about 1/2-3/4" and then they decided that was it. I can wiggle them back and forth a little bit, but they're not moving in or out any significant distance. Any thoughts as to what's going on? I'm probably just going to take them down to the neighbor that has a machine shop and get them cut out to get them off. But if it's something I did, I'd like to know so I don't do it again. |
|
|
|
Post by thelongrider on Feb 18, 2012 21:27:03 GMT -5
I had the same thing happen on the last stainless 700 ml I did. I worked on it for hours! I had to inch it back and forth 5 or 6 times just to get a 1/4 turn!! when I did get that common a$$ thing off most of the threads were galded terrible on the bbl and the receiver had the threads damaged about half way in. I believe it was from just dry metal aganst dry. It also could have been the threads being damaged from the 1/4" reciever bolt over tightened and boogered the bbl threads? any how a new remington reciever tap from Brownells cleaned up the action and I screwed on the new bbl I got from you last month and now in bussiness. I know I will never screw a dry bbl off again. I will break-em loose and then hose it down with kroil and keep it wet as I turn it off. Good luck with it!
|
|
|
|
Post by rossman40 on Feb 19, 2012 0:34:57 GMT -5
You have to check the threads on the barrel in the front action screw hole on a Remy. I know of one trick a smith taught me was if the barrel threads were smashed he would put a mill down the hole to cut the damaged threads out before trying to remove the barrel.
I have had Savages brought to me where they left the front mount screw in and screwed the threads up during the removal of the barrel.
|
|
|
|
Post by lwh723 on Feb 19, 2012 0:46:59 GMT -5
That must be what happened. I may just start cutting those out to start with so I don't run into that problem again!
|
|
|
|
Post by fishhawk on Feb 19, 2012 1:05:23 GMT -5
Luke, I tried to call you earlier. I had one last week that was the worst yet. It was a blued with a very rusty barrel. I never got it to move at all. First thing I did was drill through the sides of the lug on both sides and break the lug in two so any pressure from the barrel just being too tight was relieved. It still would not move even with heat from a propane torch. Luckily the barrel was junk from rust, so I cut it off an inch from the shoulder. I soaked it overnight in PB blaster, with the barrel cut off this was much easier. The next day I mig welded a large nut to the cutoff end of the barrel. I put the action into the vice with two aluminum blocks across the loading port and spun the barrel out with an impact. If you think the threads are galling, and you don't mind trashing the barrel, I would cut it off close to the action and drill or better mill lengthwise in a couple places down the inside of the barrel just missing the actions threads to relieve the load. Tricky job without the right tools. You can send it to me if you need to.
|
|
|
|
Post by Al on Feb 19, 2012 3:14:34 GMT -5
must be a bad month for sticking barrels, I had a stainless do the same thing about 1/2 way out.
|
|
|
|
Post by dannoboone on Feb 19, 2012 13:01:16 GMT -5
If only I could have the monetary worth of all the SS bolts and
locknuts destroyed at work from galding before the boss broke down
and started using anti-seize!
My otherwise pristine stainless barrel has/had? the same problem
which Rossman describes. I'm hoping to save it. There is a Dremel
knurled tool which is pointed that I used to attempt to clean up the
barrel threads which the front action screw had really flattened. It's
touchy work to get the thing in there without harming the threads
on the action. Magnified head band lenses really helped in that
procedure.
Luke, things came up last week and I didn't get the barreled action
to you. I'm going to try both Kroil soaking through the mounting
screw holes and anti-seize through the action screw hole after
heating the action up. This will be done in the cooler basement
where the hope is that more rapid cooling will draw more of the
anti-seize around the effected area.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 19, 2012 20:14:38 GMT -5
well guys welcome to the world of the 700 wrench, first thing to check before taking a barrel off is to see if the threads are flattened, it took me over a week to get one off, a round a day after soaking with kroil. the barrel threads were trashed and the reciever threads were a little bunged up but it finally came off.. the next one with flattened threads I took a punch an worked between threads and straightened them out before twisting it off... if you have access to a mill as Ken said you can carefully cut the threads down to the barrel....
|
|
|
|
Post by 10ga on Feb 20, 2012 23:43:06 GMT -5
Searched for a while and just made a deal for a very nice looking "Safe Queen" of a 700ML SS in 45. As I get some more $ together I'm contemplating the "build". Considering this post and potential problems for the smith, what do you reccomend for a good long "pre soak" before I send the barreled action off for new barrel installation. Would be no problem to give it a daily squirt for 6-8 weeks. PBBlaster is my friend. Here in tidewater VA with the saltwater and humidity and boats and outdoor tools and such I use it a LOT. Of course I'll use whatever the "smiths" recommend. Even a rotating regimen, ie: week of PBBlaster, week of Kroil, week of Gunk, repeat, repeat. I have done a couple of Savage 340 and 110 barrels and with the presoak the nut practically falls off. But I aint up to doin a Remington. What you guys say. Thanks, 10 ga
|
|
|
|
Post by fishhawk on Feb 21, 2012 9:25:38 GMT -5
10ga, 90+ percent of these barrels come off fairly easy. Soaking won't hurt a thing though. Main thing is to look at the threads through the front action screw hole as well as the front scope base holes to see if any one has bottomed out screws against the barrel threads. These need dealt with before any attempt to remove the barrel. Some are just stuck from rust, loctite or whatever it is that Remington put on the threads. Last thing you want is to damage the actions threads.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 21, 2012 9:35:40 GMT -5
spray kroil or pb blaster in the bp area while the plug is still in and stand in the corner for a day or so, also shoot some in base holes and action screw hole.. as long as the barrel threads are not flattened on the ss guns they come off pretty easy but be sure and check to see if the threads are still sharp..
|
|
|
|
Post by rossman40 on Feb 21, 2012 12:13:37 GMT -5
SS is the easy ones, blued can be worse. Bill's advise is what I would do, maybe add (more so with a blued action) once you have it out about a 1/4-3/8 inch or so spray down the exposed threads at the front and in the action then tighten back up and then unscrew it.
A buddy of mine during re-assembly is now using Briley choke tube lube on the barrel threads. Just brushes on a thin coat. Not as messy as neversieze.
|
|
|
|
Post by jeremylong on Mar 1, 2012 18:39:30 GMT -5
Just had a ss action that galled up 3/4 of the way off. I soaked it wth sea foam spray and worked it for a.while. finally got it but it left two sections of threads in the receiver. Great. This is the first one to do it that bad on me.
|
|
|
|
Post by lwh723 on Mar 1, 2012 19:12:04 GMT -5
Just had a ss action that galled up 3/4 of the way off. I soaked it wth sea foam spray and worked it for a.while. finally got it but it left two sections of threads in the receiver. Great. This is the first one to do it that bad on me. LOL. I hate to laugh, but I know what you're talking about. I'm still sore from fighting one off on Saturday. The other one we just cut the barrel off and cut in with a lathe to the top of the receiver threads. I then ran a receiver tap in to clear it out. It's a MUCH less labor intensive method. Receiver looked a lot better afterwards too. If anyone needs a receiver cleaned up, feel free to send it in and I can run my tap in it. |
|
|
|
Post by fishhawk on Mar 1, 2012 21:11:56 GMT -5
I took a blued apart the other day after fighting the last one. It came loose so quick and easy I almost did a faceplant on the bench, go figure...
|
|
|
|
Post by lineman on Mar 1, 2012 21:44:54 GMT -5
I just picked up a stainless rem and getting ready for barrel removal and all hopes goes well.NOW just have to get rid of 54 cal barrel in very good shape.
|
|
|
|
Post by rangeball on Mar 2, 2012 9:53:30 GMT -5
I just picked up a stainless rem and getting ready for barrel removal and all hopes goes well.NOW just have to get rid of 54 cal barrel in very good shape. Contact edwardamason. He's posted in the past he's on the lookout for this caliber. |
|
) 700ML barrels this weekend. Two of them gave me a load of trouble. They broke loose fine, and were unscrewing fairly easily for about 1/2-3/4" and then they decided that was it. I can wiggle them back and forth a little bit, but they're not moving in or out any significant distance. 
