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Post by rangeball on Jan 23, 2012 17:20:04 GMT -5
Since our seasons are over, buddy brought his tupperware stocked 10ML2 in so we could check the fit in a boyds thumbhole he picked up. Surprisingly, it seemed to drop right in, action worked fine, and the stock screws seemed to fit well as well, although the forward (towards the muzzle) screw seemed to only get a couple rotations before tightening up, is that enough to hold?
Barrel isn't quite free floated. Is it common to have to open up the channel in these stocks for the 10ml2? Or is free floating a big concern? It may shoot just fine as is, but we don't want to handle the stock too much before finishing it, so shooting ahead of time is out of the question, but if we need to open the channel, I'd prefer to do it before we apply the finish.
Suggestions?
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Post by dannoboone on Jan 23, 2012 18:28:50 GMT -5
If the barrel isn't quite free floated, that could account for only two threads holding (which would make me a little nervous).
I'm in the process of doing my sixth stock, so that doesn't make me a "pro" by any means, but I do the barrel channel work as well as the bedding job just prior to doing the final coat of finish. That way, any marks made during these processes can be sanded down when doing the final sanding. Any open grain after the final coat just drives me nuts, and it can take quite a few coats to get all the grain in laminates filled. Present stock will have taken six coats, with heavy to moderate to light sandings between coats.
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Post by davidfoor on Jan 23, 2012 19:46:09 GMT -5
If you go from a syn to wood you will need longer screws, both front and back. Call Savage they have these, might as well change the trigger guard to metal while your at it. The barrel channel may need to be opened up a little. You can do this by wrapping sandpaper around an appropriate size dowel rod or socket.
I would get the correct length screws before putting a lot of torque on the ones you have now as you could strip a few threads in your receiver.
Here is a statement from Boyd's web site,
For Savage 10 and 110 and Stevens 200 Models: Action screws used to manufacture Boyds' stocks are for wood stocked firearms. These screws are longer than the screws used on synthetic stocked firearms. New screws can be ordered directly from Savage.
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Post by fishhawk on Jan 23, 2012 20:41:44 GMT -5
You need to get the barrel floated to be sure the action is seated against the bottom. Then see how many threads engagement you have. I prefer to find out how many turns a screw can go in and slowly cut a longer screw down until it takes about 1/2 turn less than bottomed out. If you can't find longer screws, Rossman40 has some.
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Post by rossman40 on Jan 24, 2012 0:52:43 GMT -5
Did you get a Featherweight thumbhole or the Varminter thumbhole? Different barrel channels.
With the 4.25" action spacing you can take the bolt out and the only thing you will hit is the top of the action. For the laminate stock your rear screw will be about 1.75" (counting the nub), IIRC the front screw is like 1.083" but you can go 1.125" as long as you do not hit the bolt.
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Post by rangeball on Jan 24, 2012 10:04:09 GMT -5
Did you get a Featherweight thumbhole or the Varminter thumbhole? Different barrel channels. With the 4.25" action spacing you can take the bolt out and the only thing you will hit is the top of the action. For the laminate stock your rear screw will be about 1.75" (counting the nub), IIRC the front screw is like 1.083" but you can go 1.125" as long as you do not hit the bolt. Varminter thumbhole, not the featherweight. I was surprised that the screws fit at all but sounds like we need the longer screws to be safe. When you are grinding screws down, I assume you have a nut on them to correct any damage you do to the threads?
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Post by fishhawk on Jan 24, 2012 10:36:27 GMT -5
A fine grinding wheel can straighten out the ends of the screw. The end needs a slight bevel put on it just like a new screw. A die is a better idea than a nut, if your going to run something on the screw before grinding.
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Post by muzzleman 54 on Jan 24, 2012 13:49:57 GMT -5
hi rangeball. make sure before you bed the action that your ramrod fits ok. rap the front of the barrel with black tape untill you get the right fit. leave it on there when you do your bedding. it will give you the right clearance and float the barrel. lou.
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Post by muzzleman 54 on Jan 24, 2012 13:53:35 GMT -5
rangeball. you need to put the tape at the end of the forend around the barrel. lou.
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Post by rangeball on Jan 24, 2012 14:36:15 GMT -5
Thanks Lou. The ramrod fit perfect as is. Stock looks really good with the action in it. I talked to him about bedding and he wants to see how it shoots first before going through the expense. I've never bedded one, so I can't do it for him.
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Post by muzzleman 54 on Jan 24, 2012 14:43:02 GMT -5
let me know how it works out. if you need any help at all, let me know. lou.
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Post by rangeball on Jan 24, 2012 15:17:04 GMT -5
Will do.
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Post by tucker05 on Jan 30, 2012 18:51:09 GMT -5
This may sound like a dumb question but I have a Savage 10ML (not to be confused with the MLII). It is currently wearing the factory tupperware and I would like to replace it with a Boyds thumbhole as above. My question is do you need to inlet the ramrod in these stocks and if so can anyone explain how it is done Thanks in advance
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Post by fishhawk on Jan 30, 2012 19:47:04 GMT -5
Most but not all carry a breakdown ramrod that they carry in their essentials bag. The nicest way to do it is with a mill. But it could be done with a guide setup with a router or drill press.
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Post by rangeball on Jan 31, 2012 9:41:43 GMT -5
Ask muzzleman1954 how he did the one on the boyds thumbhole I was asking about. It's perfect.
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