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Post by jims on Mar 13, 2009 15:28:32 GMT -5
My Savage MLs have the third pillar added, so I have three screws to tighten. I thought from memory it was suggested that the added third pillar screw be tightened first. I was reading an old Outdoor Life article and Jim Carmichel said this, "If you shoot a bolt-action rifle, right here is some of the best advice you're going to get. Loosen all guard screws. Next, hold the rifle vertical with the butt on a solid support and pull downward on the barrel so the recoil lug will be in tight contact with the mortice. While maintaining this pressure, fully tighten the Front guard screw. Do not alternte tightening pressure between the guard screws as though you were torquing down an engine head. Tighten the front guard screw as tight as it will go; then tighten the others. If your rifle has three (3) guard screws, tighten the front one, then the rear screw and then the middle screw. Some rifles, by the way, are more agreeable if the center screw is only snug but not tight." This was in the May 1983 magazine.
If it is advised we do it differently with the Savage is there a reason. Also has anyone tightened the front versus the rear and vice versa and noticed a difference and what worked better. Thanks
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Post by Harley on Mar 13, 2009 15:44:41 GMT -5
Somebody with three pillars will have to answer that question, exactly, but with two action screws Mr. Carmichel's advice is right on, with the exception that we don't "tighten the front .... screw as tight as it will go". 25 in. lbs. is generally accepted as ideal for the Savage ML. I have one more refinement for myself; after loosening the bolt screw I always loosen, then re-tension the forward action screw before re-torquing the bolt screw.
Harley
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Post by ozark on Mar 13, 2009 16:03:46 GMT -5
I would think that it depends on whether the action has been bedded or hasn't. IMO if it has been bedded in epoxy then the inch Lb. torquing should be amended to read chinched down tight. I personally would stand the rifle with muzzle up and with all screws loose bounce it a time or two on a solid floor or concrete to seat the action to the rear. I would then tignten the action screw closest to the muzzle and then work toward the the butt plate. This IMO would tend to cause any receiver warp to flow out. I will get disagreement because of the inch Lb. advice used with unbedded rifles. My theory is to use the screws to prevent any movement between the action and bedding. The tightening sequence of an engine head is sound and is designed to cause flow to the outside. Now, why not try it both ways and reach your own conclusions based on holding zero from one session to the next?
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Post by edge on Mar 13, 2009 16:16:10 GMT -5
IMO, and I am not an expert by any means  If I tighten the front screw fully tight before bringing the others screws snug then there is a good chance to torque the action because the recoil lug is not square! If I take this to the ridiculus, I intentionally have the tang in the air by 1/4 of an inch. The front action screw will try to square up the action, but the lug will hit at its base, and the action screw will be diagonally across the pillar by as much as is allowable. Tighten any rear screw and the action will be torqued! IMO, if I have three action screws I would tighten the middle screw finger tight, THEN, I would finger tighten the other two. Then I would back off all screws by a very small fraction. Then and only then would I set the recoil lug with the muzzle at 90 degrees to the ground and a bang to the recoil pad. Finger tighten, then start at the front or middle and alternate tightening. edge. |
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Post by ozark on Mar 13, 2009 16:34:28 GMT -5
I have learned to respect the opinions of edge because he is a machinist, understands metal and is also a skilled perfectionist. His ideas makes sense to me but I did it my way so long with success that it has become my way. Between my system and that described by edge it is probably six of one and a half dozen the other. I like the way edge reaches a understanding of principals. He takes a step to its extreme to visualize what happens. Good way to get a good image of what is occuring. When I first became a member edge was there for me to help in anyway he could and I will not forget that kindness. I think it is appropriate to mention that however it is done it may take a few shots and recoil to settle everything in. Ozark
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Post by Richard on Mar 13, 2009 19:13:27 GMT -5
I think Edge is right on the money! But I also think that a proper bedding job with three pillars should have your action sitting pretty much stress free. Hence, no matter which order you tighten them, I doubt you will see a difference in POI. By that I mean..........Dont just crank one up real tight and then the others. Like Edge said ....first hand tighten them, then snug them all and then torque if so desired. Middle first, then front and then rear.
Richard
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