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Post by excisac on Jul 19, 2011 22:26:48 GMT -5
Finalizing my notes before calling PacNor and ordering a 45 cal barrel. What is everyone using for a crown on their barrels? My barrel will have 8 grooves to allow for indexing the sabot. How deep is the recess on the recessed crowns? If it is very deep will it be an aid or a hinderance to indexing and loading. This gun will be for hunting rather than as a bench gun but it will get time on the bench as well particularly if it turns into a tack driver.
I looked through a bunch of posts to see pictures but I didn't find any that show the muzzles.
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Post by dave d. on Jul 20, 2011 6:18:01 GMT -5
no recess on any of mine just the standard 11 degree.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 20, 2011 6:19:56 GMT -5
11 degree works very well
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Post by mike.dawson on Jul 20, 2011 9:09:28 GMT -5
+1
Mike
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Post by esshup on Jul 20, 2011 9:44:11 GMT -5
escisac, I just completed the order for mine this morning. Penny said they are running 14-16 weeks now.........
I figure I'll have a couple of weeks to get it dialed in before the season opens.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 20, 2011 9:44:55 GMT -5
If these guys say it,go with it without second thought.
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Post by dannoboone on Jul 20, 2011 17:50:49 GMT -5
They can give you the 11* crown, and then a 45* chamfer at the end of the barrel for easier loading.
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Post by ET on Jul 20, 2011 19:01:03 GMT -5
Excisac Not here to try and contradict what others are saying but I do have a muzzle cut with a 11-degree crown and a recess consisting of a 30-degree chamfer. 090” deep. Also a small pop mark on the edge of the 11-degree crown to show where to align the petal slit on a sabot for indexing. Shoots very accurate and would have it done again in a heartbeat if I get another barrel. The only thing I would try different is only cutting the recess to .060” next time. If you decide to cut a recess the one thing you want to watch for is any burrs left behind at the lands from the cutting of the recess. This can drive you bonkers until the burrs are removed. Ed
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Post by Richard on Jul 20, 2011 19:48:20 GMT -5
Either crown can be considered a "target" crown. I have built my own and other bench rifles with either. They both work equally as well. There was a time when BR shooters felt that the tapered crown somehow allowed the gases to disperse better with less bullet disruption? That has since been debunked and I have seen crowns by the best accuracy gunsmiths with both types. If a persons lathe set up is not the best and the barrel bore is not indicated to with in a couple of ten thousandths? Then the straight/90* crown will be the best bet. even if there is a little wobble? If the crowning tool bit is traveling straight across the bore, even with some wobble, it with cut a 90* crown. On the other hand, if the bore is not indicated (Set up with a precise dial indicator measuring off precision gage pins inserted in the bore) pretty perfectly, than a 11* crown will not be even The idea of a slight bevel on the very edge of the crown (90* or 11*) is a good idea as it keeps the sabot from being cut when seating! I re-did mine after I got it from PN. Richard
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Post by excisac on Jul 20, 2011 20:14:01 GMT -5
Thanks for all the information guys. I didn't really think there would any advantage in terms of accuracy with either style of crown. I was wondering more for ease of loading with sabots. I will go with the 11* crown and get a chamfer bevel on the edge.
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