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Post by hoz on Jun 27, 2011 17:50:21 GMT -5
Hey guys, just thinking out load. Anyone think its possible to use Mac's ramrod design to make an alluminum cooling rod. If it was collapsible it would fit into a small cooler with ice and much easier to take to the range. Maybe I am off my rocker, but we have some very smart fellas on here and I just thought I would ask.
Rob
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Post by Richard on Jun 27, 2011 18:58:29 GMT -5
Well, the theory is good but............It could not be hollow or you would loose density needed to absorb or transfer the heat  . If you made it so the pieces screwed together .........by the time you got the pieces together, it would have warmed up . The sides have to be pretty smooth and be as close to the inside diameter of the barrel as would reasonably allow for a "slip fit!". Here again a telescoping rod would be great but then you are back to the hollow thingy and each succeeding piece would be a different diameter and you would loose the "contact" effect also. So.................. It is still worth it not sitting around twiddling your thumbs for fifteen minutes between shots  Richard |
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Billy
8 Pointer
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Post by Billy on Jun 27, 2011 21:08:11 GMT -5
I believe one like Richard mentioned that screws together would be ideal. It probably would warm up a little, but would still be better than nothing, and a lot more convenient that the huge cooler I carry. I have loved the one that Rossman made for me, but would be happy to pay quite a bit more for one that screwed together, two piece or 3 piece. Good idea, IMO, and maybe someone with the expertise will jump in.
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Post by moto357 on Jun 28, 2011 6:30:53 GMT -5
not collapsible, but here's what i did. i turned down a piece of aluminum to the size i wanted, and its only maybe 14" or 15", i then drilled/tapped the end for 10-32 and put a headless screw in. a small piece of PVC fits over it nicely, and i can use a large soda bottle or whatever with ice water in it. i can leave it in the bottle as i attatch it to my range rod.
being its not the full length of my barrel im sure it doesn't work near like the others, but i do get a noticible difference in 30 seconds, and its small enough that its not a hassle at all.
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Post by smokepoler on Jun 28, 2011 12:20:27 GMT -5
I made up a two piece solid copper rod out of a 36 inch x 1/2 inch piece of round stock. Cut it in half, drilled & tapped for a 1/4-20 in one end of each rod. Screwed in a 3/4 inch long stainless steel set screw until it was too tight to easily remove in one rod. Used 120 emery cloth to take it down to .497 then followed up with successively finer grit paper finally ending up with 400 wet or dry for a final size of .496. It fits nicely in my medium size cooler and easily stays ice cold for more than five minutes. Hangs out of the barrel quite a bit but pulls the heat out in short order.
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Post by hoz on Jun 28, 2011 19:52:50 GMT -5
What would work better, Aluminum, brass or copper? I have some ideas I want to try out. Thanks
Rob
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Post by smokepoler on Jun 28, 2011 20:49:01 GMT -5
If you want to be the envy of the range ;D, silver conducts the best, with copper second. Aluminum alloys have about half the ability to pull heat as copper. When ice cold, mine cools the barrel to COLD in less than a minute.
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Post by rossman40 on Jun 28, 2011 23:38:04 GMT -5
You have to watch alloys. While 110 copper will have a thermal conductivity of 388. Red brass, even though it is 85% copper, has a thermal conductivity of only 151. Some alloys of copper even less. Pure aluminum is like 220 but it is so soft it bends looking at it. I use a 6061 alloy with a T6 hardening which has a thermal conductivity of 167. If you have a SS barrel the barrel itself has a thermal conductivity of like 29.
Also watch the rating that you are comparing is calculated, most common is W/m-C but you can also see Btu / (hr-ft-F). Pure copper is like 388 calculated using W/m-C, but only 231 using Btu / (hr-ft-F). It is like a metric-inch thing.
The biggest thing is cost, I get 6061 for $1 a foot while copper is now over $1 an inch.
Copper does do a better job but you only have to suck up 3 to 4 degrees and aluminum does the job cheaply.
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Post by hoz on Jun 29, 2011 8:15:37 GMT -5
Rossman, Is there anything you don't know? Sheeesh, you are a bottomless pit of knowledge and a great asset to a great site. Thanks
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Post by Jon on Jun 29, 2011 12:14:44 GMT -5
Hoz+10
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Post by dennis31 on Jun 29, 2011 14:50:37 GMT -5
FWIW, If you go to amazon you can get a 3/8" x 72" C110 copper rod for 21.77 then type in super jag which you can get for $4-5 and get the free shipping and have 2 cool rods plus a short and a cleaning jag for under $30.
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Post by rossman40 on Jun 29, 2011 15:53:31 GMT -5
.375 makes a good cooling rod for a .40 cal. My .45 rods go around .440 and my .50 rods go .490.
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Post by Richard on Jun 29, 2011 16:14:22 GMT -5
Dennis..........you are going to want a 7/16 rod for that .45. 3/8" wil not do it..............TOO loose of a fit. Herman initially tried a 3/8" in his .50??? It was a wast of time.
Richard
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Post by dennis31 on Jun 29, 2011 17:52:30 GMT -5
Richard, while i agree7/16 would be ideal. You dont see too much 7/16 copper rod. Ive been using the 3/8 without a problem, they go in cold and come out warm. For $20 ive got 2 28" rods but have not needed to use the 2nd one before the next shot.
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Post by Richard on Jun 30, 2011 15:15:02 GMT -5
OK? I would definitely think it is much less efficient. MSC, Grainger and many other Industrial supply houses carry what you want.
Richard
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Post by littlejoe on Jul 1, 2011 8:08:54 GMT -5
Mac and I are working on a prototype. He wants me to see if at least 10 people want them. Cost would be $40. I will post pics when the prototype is completed. Joe
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Post by smokepoler on Jul 1, 2011 8:27:46 GMT -5
ENCO sells 110 alloy copper rods for 34 bucks plus shipping for a 6 foot length. You can get three rods out of it. Get a few guys together & have a top notch cooling rod for around 14 bucks and a little lathe work.
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Post by littlejoe on Jul 1, 2011 8:51:31 GMT -5
I forgot to mention the rods will be solid aluminum , not hollow tubing. They will break down into three sections, shock corded together similar to the collapsible ramrods Mac already makes. Send me a PM if you are interested and I will pass it on to Mac. Joe
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Post by Jon on Jul 1, 2011 10:04:41 GMT -5
Joe. That sounds interesting any more details? Price etc. Say hi to Mac.
Jon
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Post by littlejoe on Jul 1, 2011 11:21:47 GMT -5
Jon, $40 , 30" long , breaks down to 10"+ knob. Mac seems pretty excited about a new challenge. Joe
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Post by Jon on Jul 1, 2011 12:05:38 GMT -5
Are these going to be available for .40 .45 and .50?
Jon
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Post by littlejoe on Jul 1, 2011 14:59:33 GMT -5
Jon, .45 and .50 for sure. I will talk to Mac later and see about .40. I am pretty sure he will , but I want to confirm it before I say yes.
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Post by littlejoe on Jul 12, 2011 11:49:19 GMT -5
So far only two people have showed interest in this project. We will make a few for testing and may make more in the future if the demand is there. Joe
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Post by Jon on Jul 12, 2011 12:22:29 GMT -5
Littlejoe. Just checking back on the 40 cal. It would have to be slightly longer than 30 in. if possible I would like a 40 and a45 cal.
Jon
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jul 12, 2011 15:13:34 GMT -5
Have you thought about making a cooling rod/ ramrod ? In the summer use it to cool,during hunting season use it to load.
Maybe thread the last rod for a spinjag and when in the cooling phase have a bolt or plug to protect the threads. IMO it would be the BOMB and definitetaly a DOUG's product. My only question is "Is the aluminum rod going to be stiff enough to hold up to a 50lb. or more loading/seating force? ROSSMAN what you think? LittleJoe? Hoz, just putting a little BAM into your idea thats what this board is all about ain't it,lol. I hope that it would be strong enough,if not then just go back to the cooling rod only idea,it is a good one.
Greenhorn
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Jul 13, 2011 21:26:46 GMT -5
ttt
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Post by littlejoe on Jul 14, 2011 9:59:56 GMT -5
I am trying to find the ideal clearance for the cooling rods. If I use .500 material for the .50 cal I have to skim cut the dia. If I use 7/16= .437 for the .45 cal the difference .450 - .437= .013, for the .40 cal if I use 10mm stock= .393 then the difference to the bore is .007. What I would like to have is a clearance that is the same regardless of caliber. The use of these standard sizes helps me cut down on operations, but might not be the best for you guys. Maybe i am nit picking but the difference between .013 and .007 in clearance is alot to me. Joe
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Post by Jon on Jul 14, 2011 12:46:20 GMT -5
Joe you're right the differance betwwn .007 and .013 is a big differance to a machinest but in the case of a 40cal you have .392/.40 and .400/.408. I don't think it is really that cridical as long as you are close to bore size.
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Post by Richard on Jul 14, 2011 14:12:23 GMT -5
Littlejoe...............I need you to show me one at the club. When are the lights going in? The gate guy tried to lay the blame on a burnt circuit board on his fence motor................I suggested it was a lightening strike!
Richard
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Post by littlejoe on Jul 14, 2011 18:34:01 GMT -5
Richard, Wheres the club? I could take a trip down to NC
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. If you made it so the pieces screwed together .........by the time you got the pieces together, it would have warmed up 
