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Post by smokepoler on May 26, 2011 18:15:44 GMT -5
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Post by tar12 on May 26, 2011 18:33:54 GMT -5
Your groups are typical as barrel heat opens up the groups.The synthetic stock does nothing to improve groups. While I have no experience with the stock you referenced it will be a big improvement vs the synthetic. Third pillar and a bedding job will help as well. If you decide to go that route Rossman or Hillbill do excellent stock work. After all is said in done heat is the number one culprit for fliers.
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Post by spaniel on May 26, 2011 20:15:40 GMT -5
I have that stock on mine...it is not an ML-II but a Model 11 short action converted with a PacNor barrel. I love the stock...the gun is heavy...but it is steady and accurate.
But to what tar12 said, if the stock was the problem you would not get 2 shots touching with regularity, you would get large groups from the get-go. You more likely have a heat problem and need to wait longer (much longer) or get a cooling rod. The stock MAY help, especially if bedded, but the heat is more likely the major issue and the stock the minor issue.
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Post by Deleted on May 26, 2011 20:19:23 GMT -5
bedding and pillaring can help and usually does, some guns more than others. One thing for sure, the tupperware is on the bottom rung of the ladder in the stock world. it does what it is designed to do, just not very well.just about any decent quality stock is an improvement over the tupperware.
As tar was saying, you MUST keep things cool if you expect accuracy. the plastic sabot is the weak link. after it gets hot and then gets launched under pressure it is prone to failure..everyone here has seen it over and over again, let her cool down between shots....Bill
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Post by spaniel on May 26, 2011 20:28:00 GMT -5
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Post by smokepoler on May 26, 2011 21:11:16 GMT -5
Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm not one to re-invent the wheel so the general consensus is heat is the enemy. I will take that advice and a new, more sturdy stock and go with it. I have some loads that on the first two shots @100 yds touch which is I guess is enough to cause accuracy destroying heat. How long would one suggest waiting between shots? 10, 15 or more minutes assuming ambient temps in the 70-80s? TIA, SP
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Post by spaniel on May 26, 2011 21:42:37 GMT -5
Without a cooling rod, 15 minutes.
Get a cooling rod!!
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Post by smokepoler on May 27, 2011 7:08:57 GMT -5
spaniel, I'm on it. I have access to a machine shop & aluminum round stock. SP
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Post by Chris Champion on May 27, 2011 20:53:09 GMT -5
When temps are in the 70's to 80's 15 min would be a minimum without some kind of artificial cooling.
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Post by Deleted on May 27, 2011 21:07:46 GMT -5
If its warm to the touch, it too warm
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Post by 12ptdroptine on May 28, 2011 7:38:49 GMT -5
I would replace the stock...I did and never regretted any second of it. It is part of the performance package upgrade..I spent time on my Tupperware stock that just was wasted in my opinion.. It can just be sitting a different place on the bags or rest and change the point if impact. I have mine with an aluminum tube inserted and all cut out ready to bed...Tell you what.send me 15 dollars to cover expenses and I will give it to you..But Even at that I wouldn't recommend it. I have 2 B&C duramax on ours and it is a WORLD of improvement. Better overall all the way around. Think about it...its a well $100 investment..then bed it and you will be happy. And as far as the heat thing...the guy's are 100% right on track..Rossman makes a great cooling rod at an unbeatable price. Drop
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Post by smokepoler on May 28, 2011 13:55:14 GMT -5
12ptdroptine, I checked out the B&C stocks at Stocky's and am confused as to which stock to go with. Did you use the 7110 or 7112 & how much sanding/grinding/fitting did you have to do? Thanks, SP
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Post by 12ptdroptine on May 28, 2011 19:55:01 GMT -5
It has been over a year and a half..I honestly dont remember... I bought it from Cabelas and told them what Savage I had and they sent them. I think it was just for the old Savage Short action. I didnt have to do any sanding or grinding at all..It fit right together, But mine is a .45 pacnor. You do have to watch the fact that they hug the right side of the barrel closer than the left. I think it is from the way they made the mold the recoil lug area is not straight. It would be way worth either bedding it or having one of the helpful people here do it and a 3rd pillar at the same time. I never could get either of the 2 .50 we have to shoot predictably..And spent hundred's of dollars on bullet,powder,and sabot combo's. I truly spent the price of a Pacnor on those item's. But some guy's have no problem's. Either way give it a whirl. You might have to open up the barrel chanel. Let me know if I can be of any help. Drop
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Post by smokepoler on May 28, 2011 20:22:10 GMT -5
Drop & everyone that graciously offered advice, Thanks. I read the threads on the cooling rods & with the help I got on this thread from all with regards to the rod and the stocks , I think I'm on the right track with my "issues". Looks like I'll be on the lathe next week and ordering a new stock come Tuesday. I still think I can get 'er to shoot those cloverleafs with the suggested upgrades. SP
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