|
|
Post by sawmillgunner on Feb 25, 2011 9:21:15 GMT -5
New to the 10ML 11 game, have shot it about 75 times testing loads. I have been using CCI primers and had a fail to fire. Pulled out the primer and there was no mark, put gack in and this time still nothing however it did lightly mark the primer. Changed to new primer and all was OK?  Went back to range this week and I had no mis fires I did look at the primers and am getting very light strikes. I had some Win. 209 from Wal Mart and tried them and got very good deep firing pin hits. Needless to say I will no longer be using CCI. Anyone else have similar experience with these? I did get less than 1 1/4 Groups with 5749, 43 1/2 grs 250 xtp |
|
|
|
Post by Savage Shooter on Feb 25, 2011 9:47:37 GMT -5
New to the 10ML 11 game, have shot it about 75 times testing loads. I have been using CCI primers and had a fail to fire. Pulled out the primer and there was no mark, put gack in and this time still nothing however it did lightly mark the primer. Changed to new primer and all was OK? Went back to range this week and I had no mis fires I did look at the primers and am getting very light strikes. I had some Win. 209 from Wal Mart and tried them and got very good deep firing pin hits. Needless to say I will no longer be using CCI. Anyone else have similar experience with these? I did get less than 1 1/4 Groups with 5749, 43 1/2 grs 250 xtp The CCI you have been using,,,,is it the CCI M209 (m for magnum). I have found that the CCIm and the Fed209a are very close in size tolereance and the guns I have seen that had "short strikes" on either of these would do same on the other. I like the Fed209A primers but have seen a couple of guns that were "headspaced" just short enough that they would note fire either of the Federal or CCI M Primer dependably but work with the Win209 just fine. Just use the Winchesters but watch what your buying and make sure they are the "Shotgun" primers should be in blue box and NOT "Triple Seven" or the ones that are marked "For Muzzleloading" as they produce much less propellant gas and are prone to misfires in real cold temps using smokeless powers. |
|
|
|
Post by rossman40 on Feb 25, 2011 10:13:05 GMT -5
99% of what I shoot is CCI 209Ms and never had a problem. Winchesters are pretty "soft" compared to CCI 209Ms but it still should not be a problem
The two most common things that can cause your problem,, The Accutrigger, it takes some finger training. Also if your bolt handle is not all the way down the cocking pin hits the ramp on the bolt body first. One thing I do when I check out a 10ML-II I will back out the rear action screw, close the bolt all the way and watch to see if the bolt handle rises as I tighten the rear action screw. If it does I reduce the diameter of the nub on the end of the rear action screw to insure the bolt gets as much closing as possible.
There are other things like junk/gunk in the bolt and even stock interference or FOD messing with the sear that can also give similar problems.
You can also double check your firing pin protrusion and up it a bit to the .075" range to insure a good hit.
|
|
|
|
Post by jeremylong on Feb 25, 2011 11:21:04 GMT -5
"Also if your bolt handle is not all the way down the cocking pin hits the ramp on the bolt body first"
I would say this is probably the most common cause with someone new to the MLII.
|
|
|
|
Post by morgan1109 on Feb 25, 2011 11:32:46 GMT -5
I use CCI-M’s with no problems. I went to them when I was having sticking issues with others. They’ve been great for me anyway.
The number 1 issue I’ve seen with that type of misfire (the only misfire I’ve actually seen up to this point) is people not seating the bolt all the way down. I did it at first. Half the people I let shoot the gun seem to do it. I’m a rifle user so I am used to a nice smooth easy bolt movement. My rifles don’t require any downward force to lock the bolt in place. My muzzle loader is definitely not that way. It takes a good amount of force to make sure the bolt is all the way down. If you are getting a light strike that would be the first thing I would look at. The dimples have always looked well struck when the bolt has been all the way down in my gun.
|
|
|
|
Post by sawmillgunner on Feb 25, 2011 14:14:54 GMT -5
Thanks for the replys, I shoot a lot and a lot of Bolt guns however I will check myself the next time I go to the range. My way of thinking is " what if I was shooting at a big buck when that primer failed" I will do some testing to make sure but I really think there is something else going on.
Thanks again
|
|
|
|
Post by sawmillgunner on Feb 25, 2011 14:19:14 GMT -5
You can also double check your firing pin protrusion and up it a bit to the .075" range to insure a good hit
Rossman, How might I do this with the firing pin? Also I will check my rear bolt like u said.
Thanks
|
|
|
|
Post by rossman40 on Feb 25, 2011 15:06:53 GMT -5
You have to disassemble the bolt and adjust the firing pin. I did a "how to" and it is over in the tips and hints. Firing pin protrusion should be around .050-.060" from the factory which normally does the job with centerfires and the 10ML but a tad more with the 10ML is insurance.
Did you get your 10ML new or used? New I would check the protrusion and look at the other things first before adjusting the firing pin. Used then you may want to disassemble the bolt anyway to check it out. Bolts on Savages never get taken apart and while most gum up from old oil I have seen 20+ year old centerfires with firing pin springs rusted thru. If you see any red dust coming out of the bolt it is a warning sign.
|
|
|
|
Post by sawmillgunner on Feb 25, 2011 16:43:58 GMT -5
Its new, only about 75 shots down the pipe. I will check the FP
Thanks
|
|
|
|
Post by sw on Feb 26, 2011 8:48:25 GMT -5
99% of what I shoot is CCI 209Ms and never had a problem. Winchesters are pretty "soft" compared to CCI 209Ms but it still should not be a problem The two most common things that can cause your problem,, The Accutrigger, it takes some finger training. Also if your bolt handle is not all the way down the cocking pin hits the ramp on the bolt body first. One thing I do when I check out a 10ML-II I will back out the rear action screw, close the bolt all the way and watch to see if the bolt handle rises as I tighten the rear action screw. If it does I reduce the diameter of the nub on the end of the rear action screw to insure the bolt gets as much closing as possible. There are other things like junk/gunk in the bolt and even stock interference or FOD messing with the sear that can also give similar problems. You can also double check your firing pin protrusion and up it a bit to the .075" range to insure a good hit. If you'll write a book, I'll buy it and promote it, you could entitle the book, "Everything about Guns and Optics". |
|
|
|
Post by deadon on Feb 26, 2011 9:02:49 GMT -5
I shot win primers and started bulging and even blowing primers with 62 grs of H4198. At a members suggestion I drilled the BP out with a size "C" drill bit so I could use Fed 209A primers. I want to try the recesed BP Borarhog sent me but the fed 209A is too big. what the diametor is The CCIM? I would like to try them with this BP. Thanks Rusty
|
|
|
|
Post by Jon on Feb 26, 2011 11:52:18 GMT -5
SW. I would for sure buy one. Knowledge is priceless. You ought to write a book also.
Jon
|
|
Went back to range this week and I had no mis fires I did look at the primers and am getting very light strikes. I had some Win. 209 from Wal Mart and tried them and got very good deep firing pin hits. Needless to say I will no longer be using CCI.
