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Post by rexxer on Feb 27, 2009 17:37:14 GMT -5
Thanks for all your guy's help with getting the savage bedded. I learned alot and it was a fun project. I would probably do a few things different next time but I'm satisfied with how it came out. Not coming apart was kinda scary! I used Devcon 10110 for my bedding material.  |
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Post by rexxer on Feb 27, 2009 17:42:28 GMT -5
 Here is another picture! |
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nic58
8 Pointer
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Post by nic58 on Feb 27, 2009 17:42:42 GMT -5
That looks like a nice, clean bedding job! That ought to work well for you.
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Post by jims on Feb 27, 2009 17:44:42 GMT -5
You can see the tool marks on the action in the glass, a nice job.
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Post by rexxer on Feb 27, 2009 17:51:52 GMT -5
The tooling marks are alot more pronouced in real life than picture. My first and hopefully last bedding job. I'm going to bed the trigger guard tonight.
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Post by petev on Feb 27, 2009 18:15:46 GMT -5
It looks very clean. What did you use for a release agent, if you don't mind?
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Post by Harley on Feb 27, 2009 18:23:20 GMT -5
Wow, Rex, it looks like everything you could have hoped for.
Harley
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Post by ET on Feb 27, 2009 18:36:28 GMT -5
Rexxer that is a very nice looking bedding job.
But a question I have to ask is “Why did you bed the Tang Area?”
The reason I am asking is that a bedding article involving the Savage recommends a .010”-.030” clearance in the Tang Area.
Look forward to hearing results when you get to the range again.
Ed
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Post by KerryB on Feb 27, 2009 18:38:14 GMT -5
Very fine job! Let us know how the accuracy is affected?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 27, 2009 19:02:32 GMT -5
That's a top notch job.
Zen
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Post by Harley on Feb 27, 2009 19:32:25 GMT -5
Ed, my own ML is bedded in the tang area. I didn't specify that, it was the "bedder's" choice, but I have no accuracy complaints. Just from a know-nothing point of view, I can't see why you wouldn't bed the entire action, including the tang. I'd think that would contribute to the overall rigidity of the action.
Harley
Harley
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Post by ET on Feb 27, 2009 20:07:17 GMT -5
Harley
Just curious as to why Tang Area was bedded because of past articles I read about not doing this. I am no expert in this area and usually look for info on a subject before proceeding. So seeing rexxers bedding job was kind of something going against the grain from what I read. This got my curiosity somewhat and look forward to range results from doing this. Appears something new for me may be learned here.
Ed
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Post by dave d. on Feb 27, 2009 20:17:26 GMT -5
:)rex very nice bedding job.can't wait to hear about how she shoots now.
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Post by rexxer on Feb 27, 2009 21:04:04 GMT -5
Thanks for all the kind words! There are a few different reasons why I bedded the tang area. One reason is because of the way Harleys shoots. Another reason is I read quite a little before tackling this project. I was checking out Richards custom rifles and looking at his long range muzzle loaders. The group shot by his rifles were quite impressive at very long range and you can view them on his web site.His belief is to bed the tang area and to bed to the backside of recoil lug. I have seen other articles that bed the tang but I have heard it the other way too. It will be interesting to see if it will shoot. Putting the gun in a vise with a dial indicator on barrel, the barrel did not move when I was torquing and loosening the different screws.
I have heard the same as ET in which some people float the tang area. I'm not sure the logic for or against but we will soon find out.
I would like to hear somebody's explanation on why not too ,we are all learning,right. It would be interesting to know how the Bad bull and the swinglocks were bedded.
Right,wrong, the proof will be in the pudding! Sometimes you have to eat a little crow,but I don't see Harley diving in to no black bird pie.
ET- By no means do I take your question as a negative,in fact its a question I would like to know Too! Thanks Rex
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Post by ET on Feb 27, 2009 21:44:53 GMT -5
Rexxer
In an article bedding 101 I have copied why they mentioned not bedding the Tang area.
“2. Savage rifle “tang” check:
Before you remove the action from stock, check the tang area. Unlike other rifles that have a stock bolt into the rear tang, the Savage rifle needs 0.010” to 0.030” clearance all the way around. With wood stocks I try for the closer tolerance. If you get interference before you bed, you may want to relieve a bit now, or at least be prepared to check this area once you apply the epoxy.”
As I continue to work with the 10ML-II muzzle-loader I always seem to keep learning something new. Or periodically find someone disprove what is previously mentioned by another. I am eyes and ears on this one.
Ed
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Post by Richard on Feb 27, 2009 21:50:43 GMT -5
Rex............My compliments on the bedding job! It looks flawless. OK, so here is my take on the "tang" bedding. I have followed along with what others have done since I got involved in this board and the Savage. And that is to free float the tang. I believe the reason is because it is not being drawn into the bedding by a bolt..........such as is a Remington or any of the custom actions. Most all custom Remington/Clones have a bolt under the front receiver ring and one into the tang. Since the Savage does not have this bolt it "may" allow some degree of vibration which in turn "might" cause some unwanted accuracy issues. I believe the proof will be in the pudding.
When I first did my stock and was still very "green", I did actually bed the tang. However I was having all sorts of accuracy problems (probably not at all related to the bedding) I figured I should do what the "experts" recommended I do. So I relieved the tang area and still had problems (beginner problems). I would be inclined to believe that with a stress free bedding job, that the tang would be held tight enough against the bedding so as not to cause a problem.
Richard
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Post by fowlplay on Feb 27, 2009 22:31:03 GMT -5
From the title I thought you were talking about a long lost girlfriend. ;D Nice job on the bedding of the gun. Cost less than a girlfriend also.  Steve |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 27, 2009 22:33:50 GMT -5
Tight is right Rex, thats tight when you see the tool marks in the bedding, good job! looks like it might have made a pass or two under the milling machine too, I bet it will shoot great.......Bill
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Post by sagittarius on Feb 27, 2009 23:40:45 GMT -5
Great bedding job, Rex.
Congratulations !
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esmd
8 Pointer
Bill Drain
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Post by esmd on Feb 28, 2009 1:21:36 GMT -5
Looks great. I really need to get mine bedded, I'm just scared to do it myself, since I know my job won't look half as good as that one.
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Post by rexxer on Feb 28, 2009 8:47:42 GMT -5
From the title I thought you were talking about a long lost girlfriend. ;D Nice job on the bedding of the gun. Cost less than a girlfriend also. Steve The trickery or words my friend! Thanks Stexe,but where is your mind! ;D |
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Post by younghunter86 on Feb 28, 2009 9:34:50 GMT -5
rexxer-
That looks awsome! I had mine done at Scheel's. Won't be taking anything there ever again. Some chipped off when it was removed, extremely thin under the receiver. I'm going to do some grinding/dremeling and re do it sometime this spring. I'm hoping it turns out as good as yours.
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Post by rexxer on Feb 28, 2009 9:37:47 GMT -5
Et- Richard- Yes you both are correct that the rear screw in the Savage is different than most actions. You might have a valid point but I would be very surprised if it wouldn't shoot. Here are a few of my reasons, first the bedding compound has powder steel added so it is stronger than the original wood. I removed 1/4 inch of wood behind the recoil lug area to be filled with the epoxy.The machining grooves on the action are also embedded along the whole entire surface of the bedding job. This is then held down by three pillar screws that should all be stress free. The action can not move from recoil with out shearing the bedding compound or recoil lug area.If the tang area is floated its doing nothing anyways except vibrateing,over time does this degrade your bedding work? I would think if the tang area is contained,but not stressed,it is better. My guess is the Savage tang is floated because they don't want a possible outside force interfering with their two point pillar system.I'm sure the action is moving around some. But,if all else fails I have a foredoom and a dremel tool. This would really chap my hide.  . Richard- I want to say thanks ,he's the one that talk me into doing my own. I do have 1/2 of a 1 pound can of Devcon left I would send to a member if wanting to do their own! Thanks Rex If the gun doesn't shoot its probably me anyways. Might have to send it to Lloyd to find out! |
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Post by chuck41 on Feb 28, 2009 22:28:58 GMT -5
That is one beautiful bedding job! Much prettier than mine in that nice wood stock. I'll bet it makes that gun shoot much better than before.
I did not add the third pillar to my tupperware stock, but did put in an oak block to allow that later if needed. So far it does not seem to be necessary. Since the bedding I have no longer had a problem with a change in zero after I remove and reinstall the bolt.
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Post by Harley on Mar 1, 2009 0:19:06 GMT -5
Chuck, people have lately been saying "the proof is in the pudding". I think you answered any questions by finding that the zero is constant even after removing the bolt. No third pillar called for.
Harley
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Post by rexxer on Mar 1, 2009 14:02:33 GMT -5
Sorry, but the Devcon is gone.
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