Bow basics
Feb 18, 2011 16:50:45 GMT -5
Post by dougedwards on Feb 18, 2011 16:50:45 GMT -5
Had some fundamental questions asked of me this week concerning how a older guy might get into archery so I thought that I would share some of the prerequisites to know before deciding to make the plunge.
First, you need to know that the contemporary compound bows are easier to draw and much faster than the old Pearson Flame that I used to shoot back in the 80s. Things have changed alot, so if you feel that maybe you are unable to draw your old draw weight then you could be mistaken. Another thing is that it is very common for bows of 60 lbs and less draw weights to be capable of throwing arrows in excess of 300 fps with the lighter carbon arrows.
A key ingredient in choosing the proper compound bow is it's draw length setting consideration. Some bows have draw length specific cams and can't be changed without changing the cams altogether. Others have modules that screw into the cams that are capable of changing the length. It is of the utmost importance that an archer choose a bow of proper draw length. Here is a simple formula to get you into a ballpark range.
Stand face first against a wall. Extend your hands directly away from you on the wall in both directions. Have someone measure your wing span from the tip of the middle finger on the left hand to middle finger on the right hand. Then divide that measurement by 2.5
Ex. 69" wingspan divided by 2.5 = 27.6"
This individual with a 69" wingspan will usually have a draw length between 27.5" and 28". It is very important to choose a bow that is your exact draw length for maximum accuracy potential. You can only do that by shooting bows.
Don't make the mistake of shooting more weight than you can comfortably pull. There is a guy on the internet who does evaluations of various bows who won't choose a bow for himself that he cannot comfortably draw and shoot while lying on his back. Ted Nugent, an old rock roller and hunting enthusiast, hunts with a 50 lb bow and professes that it is all you need for hunting. I practice a 4 second draw, 30 second hold and 2 second let down. If I am unable to do that I then back off the poundage by making counterclockwise turns on the limb pocket screws. Usually there is a 3 pound difference for each full turn.
Another thing is that new bows are tremendously expensive and depreciate at an alarming rate. It is not uncommon for a new 2011 bare bow that cost in excess of $800 to lose $200-300+ in value in less than a year. Many times you can buy a good used bow set up with accessories for less than the cost of a bare new bow.
Accessories including a sight, an arrow rest and stabilizer are considered common and come in all sorts of shapes, varieties and costs. The sight can consist of a 3,4,5,6, or 7 fiber optic pins variety or even a single pin that adjusts on a slider to adjust for distances. They attach to the side of the riser with screws. The arrow rest can be stationary or fall-away. The fall-away rests pop up to the proper height at full draw then drop out of the way of the arrow vanes before contact is made. There are advantages to both types of rests. Stabilizers are not a necessity for modern compound bow hunters as today's bows have little vibration at release and are relatively quiet especially compared to bows of the past or to crossbows. However you will be hard pressed to find a bow without one because they add to the pleasing asthetics of the bow. Hunting stabilizers are usually 12" or less in length where target bow stabs can be in excess of four feet long.
There are many other aspects to discuss but maybe others can add some tidbits of helpful information for those who have never ventured into the world of archery.
Doug
First, you need to know that the contemporary compound bows are easier to draw and much faster than the old Pearson Flame that I used to shoot back in the 80s. Things have changed alot, so if you feel that maybe you are unable to draw your old draw weight then you could be mistaken. Another thing is that it is very common for bows of 60 lbs and less draw weights to be capable of throwing arrows in excess of 300 fps with the lighter carbon arrows.
A key ingredient in choosing the proper compound bow is it's draw length setting consideration. Some bows have draw length specific cams and can't be changed without changing the cams altogether. Others have modules that screw into the cams that are capable of changing the length. It is of the utmost importance that an archer choose a bow of proper draw length. Here is a simple formula to get you into a ballpark range.
Stand face first against a wall. Extend your hands directly away from you on the wall in both directions. Have someone measure your wing span from the tip of the middle finger on the left hand to middle finger on the right hand. Then divide that measurement by 2.5
Ex. 69" wingspan divided by 2.5 = 27.6"
This individual with a 69" wingspan will usually have a draw length between 27.5" and 28". It is very important to choose a bow that is your exact draw length for maximum accuracy potential. You can only do that by shooting bows.
Don't make the mistake of shooting more weight than you can comfortably pull. There is a guy on the internet who does evaluations of various bows who won't choose a bow for himself that he cannot comfortably draw and shoot while lying on his back. Ted Nugent, an old rock roller and hunting enthusiast, hunts with a 50 lb bow and professes that it is all you need for hunting. I practice a 4 second draw, 30 second hold and 2 second let down. If I am unable to do that I then back off the poundage by making counterclockwise turns on the limb pocket screws. Usually there is a 3 pound difference for each full turn.
Another thing is that new bows are tremendously expensive and depreciate at an alarming rate. It is not uncommon for a new 2011 bare bow that cost in excess of $800 to lose $200-300+ in value in less than a year. Many times you can buy a good used bow set up with accessories for less than the cost of a bare new bow.
Accessories including a sight, an arrow rest and stabilizer are considered common and come in all sorts of shapes, varieties and costs. The sight can consist of a 3,4,5,6, or 7 fiber optic pins variety or even a single pin that adjusts on a slider to adjust for distances. They attach to the side of the riser with screws. The arrow rest can be stationary or fall-away. The fall-away rests pop up to the proper height at full draw then drop out of the way of the arrow vanes before contact is made. There are advantages to both types of rests. Stabilizers are not a necessity for modern compound bow hunters as today's bows have little vibration at release and are relatively quiet especially compared to bows of the past or to crossbows. However you will be hard pressed to find a bow without one because they add to the pleasing asthetics of the bow. Hunting stabilizers are usually 12" or less in length where target bow stabs can be in excess of four feet long.
There are many other aspects to discuss but maybe others can add some tidbits of helpful information for those who have never ventured into the world of archery.
Doug
Now if you are old, crippled or just weak or all three like me, and still want to bow hunt, there is the crossbow. SW is da man there