WCE Can't get zeroed

[DHinMN]

I've been chasing the bullseye for a week or better. I have a Weaver Classic Extreme mounted on the Savage ML II using Warne one piece rail base and Warne mounts. It isn't touching the lug and the screws aren't too long. I just get wild swings every time I try to adjust it. When I first got it I thought it worked great. It seems to group but I can't get the group where I want it. For instance, my last adjustment I wanted to move it down 2 inches. So I tried this trick of over doing and then coming back. I went down 16 clicks and back eight. It should have dropped two inches but it dropped six. There are other loads I should or could try but I'm asking; Has anybody else had trouble with their Weaver Classic Extreme. I thought this scope would be beyond this kind of trouble. DH

[dannoboone]

Richard is the pro at this, but it seems that he said when you
turn either adjustment clockwise, no over compensation is
necessary. It is when you are turning counter-clockwise that
over compensation needs to be done because that is relying on
the spring to push back and sometimes it will not get there.

So, if memory is serving me correctly, you needed to stop at eight
clicks. Had you been going the other direction (up), or to the
right, that's when you would need to use the over correction.

[mike3132]

Oct 22, 2010 16:58:25 GMT -5 DHinMN said:

I've been chasing the bullseye for a week or better. I have a Weaver Classic Extreme mounted on the Savage ML II using Warne one piece rail base and Warne mounts. It isn't touching the lug and the screws aren't too long. I just get wild swings every time I try to adjust it. When I first got it I thought it worked great. It seems to group but I can't get the group where I want it. For instance, my last adjustment I wanted to move it down 2 inches. So I tried this trick of over doing and then coming back. I went down 16 clicks and back eight. It should have dropped two inches but it dropped six. There are other loads I should or could try but I'm asking; Has anybody else had trouble with their Weaver Classic Extreme. I thought this scope would be beyond this kind of trouble. DH

When Im setting a scope I shoot in groups of three and adjust the scope for the center of each group until I get my zero.

When Im adjusting a cheaper scope I always make the final adjustments going clock-wise and only go about 1/2 the amount of change Im wanting. Other words if I want to move the scope down 4" I only go 2". For some reason this seems to work with cheaper scopes. Mike

[sw]

Oct 22, 2010 20:10:23 GMT -5 mike3132 said:

Oct 22, 2010 16:58:25 GMT -5 DHinMN said:

I've been chasing the bullseye for a week or

When Im adjusting a cheaper scope I always make the final adjustments going clock-wise and only go about 1/2 Mike

MIKE,
SURELY you're not suggestion that the WCE is a "cheaper" scope. That's sacrilege.
Steve

I doubt that the problem is the scope. Maybe Rossman will respond.

[mike3132]

SW,

Oops, I was thinking the Weaver Classic. Mike

[Richard]

Think about it this way................If you turn the adjustment knob clockwise, you are putting pressure on the spring. If the opposite direction, you are loosening it.......Right? To get to your final destination (if you have a finicky scope) you should be tightening it until you come to the desired mark. If you are loosening it to get to the desired mark, the spring may not have the proper tension to push the erector tube (that which contains the cross hairs) where you want it to go. By turning clockwise, you are always putting positive pressure against the tube.
To put it another way, IF you want to move the cross hair in a direction that requires the knob to be turned counter clock wise, then go past it a few clicks................then turn the knob clockwise until you hit your mark. If you have to turn the know clockwise to hit your mark.................then no problem. Just stop when you reach it. With a good scope in proper working order, you should not have to do this.
Richard

[deadeye]

if this scope is properly set-up,lapped in etc,sounds like it needs to go back to the factory. after shooting a shot say is 3'' left,you should be able to put crosshairs on the center of target(poa) while holding it very steady in the riflerest & adjust crosshairs to the bullet hole.it should be very close. also before you dismantle it try lapping the target adjustment knobs by simply turning back & forth say for approx 10min,do the elevation & windage. i even had a nightforce($1,700) which would not proof but did when i got it back. i recommend the final dialing to be clockwise regardless of cost of scope.

[dans]

I would make sure everything is tight. Scope base and ring screws. If you shoot a group will a second string of shots stay in the same group?

[sw]

Will the scope do a square? ie so many clicks right,down,left up and back on? A bad scope often shoots at 2 different places.

[mike3132]

Threads have a neutral in the middle. If you turning the screw clockwise and then counter-clockwise there is a neutral spot before the threads make contact and start the other way.

That is why sometimes when making an adjusting you are moving one direction and decide to go back the other way and the scope doesn't move, then you make another adjustment and it moves more than you adjusted. Some scopes like Leupold use a friction clutch instead of threads for this reason. Mike

[rossman40]

I'm sorry for coming in late. Good advice so far. My question is, does it keep POI when adjusted? How much did you have to adjust to start with? I had no problems with my WCE. Maybe a call to Weaver Customer Service and talk with them. If you call let us know how they are.

[DHinMN]

Thanks for the tips on scope adjustment. I think I under stand the concept now a little better than I did. I got the scope last year like most on the forum did. Used it during ML deer season and than mounted on a varmit rifle. There is about 70 vertical clicks difference between the two rifles. I put back on the Savage ML and it dialed in pretty good with my last years deer load. I was running out of those bullets and I found I can't get any more till January. Bummer. So I had a box of 50 Hornady 300 gr HP .458 dia Bullets and a 50 Pack of Harvester Black crush rib sabots, plus H4198 at 66 grains. This is what I'll shoot this year. Groups were 1 1/4 to 2 inches. Thats acceptable for my hunting area. So all I need to do is get it grouping an inch or two high at 100 yds. Thats when it started bouncing all over, but still seemed to group. If it don't settle in pretty soon I'm not going to have enough of those bullets left for the season. (yeah i know it should only take one.) I really hate to think that it would be the scope, but this is probably the heaviest load this scope has seen. I have some FTX bullets and Reloader 7 and in the middle of this I tried those for the first time and the first three shots grouped 1 1/8". If I can't get the 300 gr HP .458 zeroed on the next session I''ll switch to the FTX bullets and try them before I decide that it is a scope problem. Thanks again for the replys. DH

[mike3132]

Did you drill out the carbon in the breech plug? Hows the ventliner?

I hate to say this but bouncing all over the place is a classic example of a loose base or mounts. Id check them again. Mike

[DHinMN]

Before the last adjustment I tore it down, cleaned the barrel and breech plug, checked the vent liner. I took the scope off the rail, it has quick detach rings, checked things with a fat wrench. Vent liner is good. Every thing seems OK. I don't have experience with these bullets and it could be them. I really don't like the looks of them, they have a rather long point compared to the shank or the part that sets in the sabot. I like a bullet that would have more bareing surface and a shorter point. It has a lot of exposed lead and I don't how much it gets deformed getting pushed down the barrel. It's raining now.
When I get shooting again I'll try some of these new tricks. I could be chasing the bulls eye too much. What I have learned is get your supply of bullets, sabots, powder and stuff real early. I was happy with the load I was using.

[cuda]

I shoot the 300 grns Remingtons with a BCR sabot and 68grns of IMR 4198 and a Winchester 209 primer. It shoots great and it is a hard hitter too. Are you close to a Cabela's they have all of the things you need. What primer are you using? The primer can make a difference in a group size.

[rjhans53]

I've got 4 4 1/2 power weaver classics that won't hold for nothing. I've got one that's a 4 x 32 on a 45 that's held for quite awhile now but IMHO I sure won't call them a top quality scope

[DHinMN]

Saturday I managed to get the group moved to where I want it. I took another shot today and I'm on. Of the last four shots, three shots for an inch group and one opening it up to two. With the season two weeks away I'm good to go. I'll take a shot a day for a while just to keep checking. My hunting area is pretty much limited to 100 yd shots and usually a lot less. I'm going to copy Richards instructions for scope adjustment and put it on the gun cabinet door. Thanks again. I may try shooting "The Box" but after deer season. My load is 65 gr Reloader 7 with the Hornady .458 diameter 300 gr HP. with a Harvester black crush rib sabot and Federal 209A primer. The scope is a Weaver Classic Extreme 2.5 to 10 X 50 . DH

[dans]

Hey that's more like it. Now you will like that 300 grain Hornady on deer.