Accuracy on a budget

[superkirby]

Just wondering what things can be done to a stock 10ml II with plastic stock to improve accuracy. The problem is that with a public service job and two kids, budget is a pretty big deal. Any thoughts or ideas would be great. Mine is not bad, definately shoots minute of deer so if nothing can be done right now, it's not a big deal.

[mike3132]

Strengthen the blind mag and bed the action. Epoxy a block of wood in the blind mag will keep the stock from flexing so much. Bedding the action keeps the action from moving and gives the recoil lug a solid place to rest against. Mike

[Richard]

Along with what Mike said, I would also re-enforce the forearm. If you can live without having the ram rod stuck in the stock it makes it simple. Grind out all those spaces in the forend with a dremel tool........And here is the big reason: Most epoxies will not readily "stick" to this polymer material so you need to create a "mechanical lock!" Grind in big groves in the sides so your epoxy gets in and locks the cured material in place.
Next, get yourself a piece of solid aluminum 1/2" rod at the Home Depot. Now grind out a channel in that webbing so the rod runs from the recoil lug to the tip of the forend.
Now for the epoxy and the process: JB Weld, Marine Tex, Devcon F or any of its variants. (NOT Auto body filler) Gel Coat with fiberglass material is another good product. Used for making fiberglass repairs on boats, older corvettes etc. Most auto stores sell it in quart cans. This material is somewhat "runny" so it is necessary to make sure you have your stock clamped in a vise level with the top edge.
Prior to mixing the goop! Take a dowel, pipe, pvc or whatever along with some course (40 or 60 grit) sand paper and hog out some material from that barrel channel so you can easily get your (see below) taped up barrel to fit in with no stress.
Take your barreled action and tape up the barrel nut. Then, using duct tape, run about three or four thicknesses length wise down the underside of the barrel. Get yourself some shoe polish (I use the clear stuff like Kiwi in the little round can) and coat the duct tape. Also, tape off the top and sides of the forend so you don't have to clean it up afterwards. Now mix your goop and lay it in the channel, then insert your rod (you did make sure the taped up barrel doesn't hit it right"). Make sure there is enough material so it at least contacts part of the bottom of the barrel. Now bolt in the barreled action. Basically, you are bedding your entire barrel. Only, when finished, you will remove the tape and have a perfect barrel channel with ample clearance. The rod and epoxy will stiffen that forend right up!
There are way you could use a hollow rod and still keep your ram rod but that might be a more complicated discussion. If you look at the stock work I did on my custom stock in the hints and tips, you will see what I did. Easier to just carry a collapsible rod in your pack. Mack "The Rodman's" rod is ideal!
Richard

[dans]

J&B the barrel.

[rangeball]

Have you tried different loads? My brother-in-laws stock synthetic savage will shoot lights out as is with a fed209A, 42gr of VVN110 and a 250gr sst in an MMP black sabot. You might have to try different sabots to get the best fit with your individual barrel, of course.

[edge]

Consistency!

One problem with the ML is that conditions change with almost every shot.

IMO, paramount is trying to keep track of your first shot and probably load it hours before you actually go to the range. Make sure that the rifle is in hunting condition for the first shot. I fail to see the use of going to the rage and firing a "fouler" if you aren't doing this before you go hunting! ( this presupposes that this is a hunting rifle and not just a paper puncher )

I have rarely found someone hunting with a load that fails to fire at the range yet hear about failures in the field!

Before I came up with using a bushing I would wear out a vent liner in less than 2 range sessions. The bushing lasted many hundreds of shots.

Cleaning or not cleaning between shots, the changing carbon crud in the BP both add to problems or at least changes. Barrel heat contributes too.

Group shooting is fine for having fun, but most only get one or two shots in a morning or evening hunt.....knowing where it will go and being confident in that first shot will add to confidence.

I personally prefer a badly fouled BP, but would suggest a recessed plug and/or a duplex load to compensate for any reduction in flame reaching the powder. I believe that a fouled plug is much more consistent and helps protect the VL from wear.

edge.

[bloodtrailer]

My gun took some time and money to shoot( bedding 3rd pillar vent insert , Thanks RB)BUT my son's gun right out of the box shot as good or better than mine after $. Take your gun out and shoot it with a good vent liner, and some .458 300grn bullets harv bcr sabots & with one of the board favorite powders H4891, R-7 or even H4759 GET A REAL BASE LINE. Try to shoot in cool to cold weather 15min between shots (or w cooling rod) Try w clean barrel VS fouled barrel (my guns both shot best fouled) What I'm trying to say, is some of these guns need very little cash to shoot well but all need range time to find your guns load. My son's gun is ss with savage plastic stock unbeded w a buck masters 3-9 scope

[bigmoose]

I read with great interest Richards plan for your rifle.
I have a better idea.
Call Richard and see if he is available to do the job.
CALL THE GUY in this case RICHARD

[zakjak221]

I'll 2nd what Bigmoose said.
Richard knows his stuff,does great work and is very fair with his pricing.
He'll treat ya right.

Mark

[10ga]

I am still on that same trail. Last year civil service employee, working wife, kid in college, layoff coming. Retired in Nov. instead of layoff and now "underemployed".
(Isn't the BIG-O making everyone feel so confident and satisfied in our current government tax-your-a55 economy)

I started with a blue/tupperware MLII.

1st. lap & polish bore, search same and choose your method.

2nd. Bed action and free float barrel, search same and choose method.

3rd. get some .458 cal 300 gr. wt. bullets and sabots for same

4th. Get one of Macks collapsable loading rods and don't keep rod in rifle, comes with pouch to fit on sling. Macks rod for loading in the field. I use my solid rod for cleaning and at the range but do not keep a rod in the gun.

Cost of these items:
1= $0, used soft scrub from wifes stash.
2= $7 for JB Weld.
3= same as cost of any bullets/sabots of choice, these were recommended as providing best accuracy w/o a load of searching.
4= I think I got one of Macks rods for $45 plus $15 for SpinJag to fit bore. Mack will make rod to fold and fit with SpinJag in place.

Total cost of upgrades= $67

Just stuck with factory rec. and I use 42 gr. of 4759 and gun shoots MOA out to 200 yds. if I do my part. She is reliable and goes bang every time. She also shoots better dirty than clean. Before upgrades best I was getting was 3 MOA with 250 gr. wt. .451 bullets. Go for it, Bob

[superkirby]

Thanks for the advice guys. I'm not going to mess with anything on it right now until after hunting season. Who knows, it may not work out to do anything with it this year, but my intentions are to mess with it this winter. I've never bedded an action or floated a barrel, so I'm not sure if this is the rifle I really want to try it on. But I have a little time to read up on it.
Vince

[mike3132]

Aug 20, 2010 8:16:59 GMT -5 superkirby said:

Thanks for the advice guys. I'm not going to mess with anything on it right now until after hunting season. Who knows, it may not work out to do anything with it this year, but my intentions are to mess with it this winter. I've never bedded an action or floated a barrel, so I'm not sure if this is the rifle I really want to try it on. But I have a little time to read up on it.
Vince

The barrel is already floated on Savage rifles now. Bedding the action is very easy to do. Many articles are available on the net and we have one or two in our tips and hints section. Mike