Billy
8 Pointer
Posts: 188
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Post by Billy on Jun 4, 2010 7:43:05 GMT -5
I'm not ready to make a conversion yet, but I am interested. Who wouldn't be with the success stories posted here ? What is involved in a conversion to .45? I assume an individual would purchase the barrel from Pacnor and then have a gunsmith do the conversion. Is anyone willing to provide more details, including a ballpark overall cost? I think I would be looking to purchase another 10ML II as well, since I'm reluctant to modify my HB. Do we have a board member that specializes in the conversions? Thanks, Billy
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lundy
8 Pointer
Posts: 182
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Post by lundy on Jun 4, 2010 7:58:43 GMT -5
I purchased the Pac Nor and had Richard perform all of the work for me.
The gun, of the two I own, that I elected to convert first was my HB.
I have not personally shot this gun after Richard has done the work but I saw the results of his work on my gun in one of his recent posts when he test shot it.
Kim
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Billy
8 Pointer
Posts: 188
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Post by Billy on Jun 4, 2010 8:39:10 GMT -5
I saw the post where Richard shot your conversion as well. I'm curious why you chose to convert your HB first? Thanks, Lundy. Billy
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Post by dave d. on Jun 4, 2010 9:17:57 GMT -5
:)billy when I approached pn to make these barrels the whole idea was to make them a drop in barrel because rb was just swamped and waiting times were long. There very simple to install you just need a wrench and vise You could even make blocks for almost nothing and then use your household vise if you have one. Then the only additional cost is a $35 wrench. The standard barrel shipped to your door is around $450. Of course if you don't think you could tackle the job Richard would surely take on your task. Goodluck
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Billy
8 Pointer
Posts: 188
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Post by Billy on Jun 4, 2010 10:16:01 GMT -5
Thanks, Dave D. That helps a lot. I assume the $35 wrench is the barrel nut wrench. Where would I purchase that? Is it Savage specific, or a general gunsmith tool? What are the "blocks" you mentioned? Are there any tolerances that have to be maintained, or is it as simple as screwing in the new barrel and tightening the barrel nut? Does the barrel come with installation instructions? Sorry for all the questions. Thanks, Billy
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Post by dave d. on Jun 4, 2010 11:05:57 GMT -5
:)billy I believe there are a few places to get the wrench, sharp shooter supply, brownells, and probably others. As far as the blocks I took a piece of 4x4 oak and cut it 1" thick then drilled a 1" whole threw it then sliced it right down the middle to get 2 half moon pieces to sandwich the barrel. If you clamp the reciever you will probably need a 1 1/4" whole. Headspacing will be done with the breechplug in the barrel and the barrel nut install then put a 209 in your bolt in your reciever and closed down in your action. Then screw your barrel in so the 209 goes into your plug. Then screw the barrel till it bottoms. Once it bottoms come off a hair because when you tighten the nut she's going to tighten alittle and That's about it. It's easy and it's fun doing it yourself. Goodluck
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Post by boarhog on Jun 4, 2010 12:30:22 GMT -5
I had Richard do my conversion, but he also did bedding and third pillar in a Duramax stock. He does great work!
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Post by Jon on Jun 4, 2010 12:43:04 GMT -5
I would have to back up Boarhog Richard did mine, 3rd. piller bedded and installed the barrel the work and price were top notch. You could not find any better as far as I'm concerned. I'm doing one more and that is who I will go to. Jon
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Billy
8 Pointer
Posts: 188
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Post by Billy on Jun 4, 2010 13:24:13 GMT -5
Thanks, everyone. I appreciate the information. Billy
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Post by 12ptdroptine on Jun 4, 2010 17:33:37 GMT -5
I done mine here at home. If I had it to do over I would have sent it to Richard and asked him to finish it up for me.I am very happy with it But I think Richard would have done a more thorough job for me., When I made my barrel vice I also took a 4x4 oak block and sliced an inch or so off of it drilled a 1'' hole through it then sliced it in half. Then I took a piece of 1/4x2" angle iron. Drilled t 3/8 holes in it. Then took a 1/4 piece of flat stock and matched up the hole's. Then put the block in it and drill those to match also. Put 2 3/8 x 6" grade 5 bolts through it all and there is the barrel vice.. The neat part is that with the 2" angle iron sticking down I can mount it up in my shop work vice and it aint going anywhere. Good luck...P;S...The worst part of the whole thing is the wait for the new barrel to arrive. drop
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Post by rjhans53 on Jun 4, 2010 18:40:57 GMT -5
I did my own. I spent a few years messing with old mausers and came to the conclusion back then that you need to get the tools to do the job, so I bought a savage action vice from browness and my barrel vice from the mauser days worked fine with different shims. Bedded the gun in a duramax stock, it shoots way better than I do. I do agree with 12pt waiting is the hardest part of putting a pac nor on
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lundy
8 Pointer
Posts: 182
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Post by lundy on Jun 4, 2010 19:11:59 GMT -5
Billy, I choose to change the barrel on my HB first versus my stock SS/laminate because it already was bedded, and had a third piller. Less work to be done on that one to get it where I wanted it.
Also my HB shot no better than my stock gun on most days. I grew tired of fighting it.
Richard installed my Pac Nor barrel, worked on the bolt, installed a new butt pad, and performed a couple of other tweaks here and there..
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Billy
8 Pointer
Posts: 188
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Post by Billy on Jun 4, 2010 20:05:07 GMT -5
That makes sense, Lundy. I'll have to think about that. I regrettably sold my first SS MLII when I bought the HB. I have basic shop tools, and have always done most of my own gun work. I was a so-called (meaning no training) armorer in the NG in the late 60's, but at 65 now, I'm leaning toward letting someone with the experience do it. Thanks again to everyone for your advice. PS: Dave D, if you (or anyone else) already have one that is boring you with it's accuracy and you want to move it, please let me know. Billy
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Post by DBinNY on Jun 4, 2010 20:30:06 GMT -5
I did mine myself and used a chunk of 4x4 yellow pine to make the barrel vice. I left it about 3 1/2" long so it formed a cube, drilled the hole and split it down the center of the hole on a table saw. That gave plenty of bite for the bench vice and no bolts required. I did give the barrel nut wrench a whack with a plastic faced hammer and it popped loose with no marring. Check the tips and hints for SW's thread on primer chamber adjustment and headspacing.
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