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Post by deadon on Jan 15, 2010 20:43:13 GMT -5
Could someone please me how to do this. I removed the screw in the forearm, the screw behind the trigger guard and then found and removed the screw in front of the trigger guard, but I can't get the barrel and action loose. There has got to be something I am not seeing.Please help.
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Post by minst7877 on Jan 15, 2010 21:26:32 GMT -5
Did you remove the screw in the front of the mag well?
DC
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Post by deadon on Jan 15, 2010 21:32:40 GMT -5
YES SIR, THAT IS THE FIRST ONE I REMOVED. ONCE I HAVE REMOVED THOSE THREE SCREWS, WHAT DO I DO? THANK YOU IN ADVANCE PLEASE EXCUSE THE CAPS.I THINK THAT MEANS SOMETHING IN THE PUTER WORLD., did it again, sorry
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Post by youp50 on Jan 16, 2010 9:18:58 GMT -5
I just looked in my Numrich book. You got them out. Did you maybe bed the action? Or a previous owner? They call for three screws you have removed. No hidden mechanical connections. Maybe its a glue in?
Caps mean you are shouting. Usually considered bad form. Stuck together gun and uncertain 'puterspeak is a cause for forgiveness.
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Post by deadon on Jan 16, 2010 10:09:16 GMT -5
Yes Sir, It had been steel bedded when I bought it. Think I will leave it alone until I can get it back to the gun smith I purchased it from and let him show me or if its some how stuck, he can get it loose. Thank you all , Rusty
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Post by whelenman on Jan 20, 2010 8:43:04 GMT -5
You might try pulling the stock apart from the rifle at the forend with one hand while smacking the bottom of the stock with the flat of the other. That's the method I use to get stocks unstuck after bedding them. There will be a sharp crack and the bedding will release. Maybe the gunsmith never removed the stock from the barrel after bedding it and this has never been done.
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Post by ozark on Jan 20, 2010 18:21:54 GMT -5
Fold a towel to four thickness and place on the edge of a solid table. Hold the rifle upside down with the left hand holding the forearm and applying pressure on the barrel away from the wood. With the right hand holding the receiver firmly, rap the upside down stock onto the folded towel. Start by using light raps at first and increase force until they seperate.
A word of caution, I have never been a brute of a man but I have enough strength to snap a stock into using this method. In school I seen many stocks sticking out of trash cans that had been broken after the worker failed to apply release componds correctly. Be careful, it should come our long before enough force is used to do damage.
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Post by KerryB on Jan 20, 2010 18:30:41 GMT -5
I have had a few rifles stuck after bedding and before i started banging on them too hard, i would toss them in the deep freeze for an hour or so. Then pull it out and give it a few whacks while it is still really frozen. I have never had to smack one very hard using this method and they all released pretty easily. Give it a try and let us know? I just bedded another rifle a couple of hours ago and the steel epoxy is currently setting up overnight. I fully intend to freeze it before i knock it loose tomorrow afternoon. Good luck! KerryB
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Post by ozark on Jan 20, 2010 20:49:35 GMT -5
KerryB, I was going to commit sucicide later this evening because I thought I had heard everything. I have changed my mind after hearing about freezing bedded rifles to get them to release easier. I think you are proving that tempature alters the fit slightly. LOL
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Post by minst7877 on Jan 20, 2010 22:48:37 GMT -5
Steel shrinks when it gets cold. We used to put the guide pins in die sets by freezing the pin. We kept a supply of various sizes in the freezer all the time so they could be replaced as needed. They would practically drop into the bored holes and when they warmed up it was nearly impossible to drive them out.
DC
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Post by rjhans53 on Jan 21, 2010 18:41:10 GMT -5
I've heard of the freezing method, never had to go that route but it is an option. Here is what I've come up with as the best method for me. If I don't describe it very well, let me know and I'll get some pics. I've taken 3 pieces of hardwood
1 1 x 3
2 1 x 1
attach the 1x1 to the 1x3 just far enough apart to stradle the reciever (I use screws). Saddle the reciever and using a c clamp (inserted into the lug area) start turning. They pop out like a dream, no more banging the barrel to break the epoxy anymore
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Post by whelenman on Jan 22, 2010 9:08:48 GMT -5
I was trying to picture what you said. Is the c clamp inserted through the magazine well and bearing upon the bolt or am I missing something and is it some way bearing upon the bottom of a rod inserted in the forward action screw hole. Sounds like a good deal but I'm just not clear.
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Post by rjhans53 on Jan 22, 2010 13:02:07 GMT -5
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Post by whelenman on Jan 23, 2010 19:59:47 GMT -5
I'm good. A picture is worth a thousand words. I'll have to give that a try. Thanks.
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Post by deadon on Jan 31, 2010 9:47:00 GMT -5
The gunsmith that bedded it for me got it off. He had two screws that fit but were longer. He screwed them in until they bottomed out, hit them with a leather mallet once each and she broke loose. Pretty neat trick.Thanks for all the input.
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Post by swampmen on Feb 8, 2010 19:07:06 GMT -5
Thats slick thanks ,thats in my notes
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rogo
Button Buck
Posts: 17
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Post by rogo on Mar 27, 2011 14:32:56 GMT -5
Seems to me he would/should have done that before giving the rifle back to you.
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Post by Richard on Aug 24, 2011 19:50:35 GMT -5
There are gunsmiths and then there are gunsmiths that are also "shoemakers!"  Richard |
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Post by deadon on Aug 13, 2012 16:45:58 GMT -5
One should know the man they are talking about before they talk. JM2
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Post by archie on May 18, 2013 16:00:36 GMT -5
Fold a towel over several times place it on the floor and smack the muzzle on the towel like you was hoe-ing the garden, stock side down. Provided the release agent applied to the metal surfaces it should bust loose with one or two attempts. If there was no release agent applied.... well, good luck sir.
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