Savage 10ML-ll?

[cuda]

How many still shoot the 10ML-ll in it stock form? I mean original stock and barrel with upgrades of breach plugs stock trigger. I tested a breach plug for Al and it had a carbide vent before they were available. I gave him the dimensions of my 223 bolt head too. And he sent me a 209 bolthead to test and I still have them too. The 209 breach plug has a recessed 3/8'x3/8' carbide vent that was before they went to 1/4'. I had to get a hold of Al to get a replacement vent he had 2 left and I have both now. And I have 2 new breach plugs from Luke with the 1/4'vents too. I have a 200 Stevens that has a 45cal barrel that Luke put on it. At that time he was about 45min away from me so I went right down to his house He is a great guy to talk to he switch the barrels out. The 45cal Shoots great my granddaughter shot her first deer with it too. I do not shoot the 45 much I love my 50 and can shoot a 3 shot 1' at 100yds. My last deer was about 180yds and it was a heart shot my grandson tracked it 50 feet a nice young 8 pointer great eating too. My 50 is not bedded only 2 screws remove the breach plug with a 1/4' drive a socket without removing the bolt. Once I got the screws set to where it grouped the best I just left them alone. I did the same with the 45 a big thanks to Luke on that one too. I did the 45 for my son and I got the 209 bolthead from Al to test way before you could buy one.

[ET]

My 10ML-II is basically all stock components with upgrade modifications such as recessed BP, bedding and barrel lapping to mention a few. I still use vent liners as I’ve learned to drill my own. Having a SML is only half the equation IMO. In my case a knurled bullet with sabot and a reasonable tight-fitting load also makes a difference. I have no intentions of abandoning my 10ML-II as it does everything I need and expect from it.

[dannoboone]

Hat's off to you guys who got good shooting 10MLII's!! Mine
became a 15-year work in progress prior to being happy with
it. First was bedding...didn't help. Scope change...didn't
help. Only load that was fairly accurate was 42gr N110 with
Hornady 250gr SST, but many reported bad results on deer
with them, so I kept trying other loads. None were good. Rick
Bibby (RBinAR) RIP began posting about his .45 conversions,
and how much more accurate they were. As soon as PacNor came
out with .458 barrels, I got one which was accurate, but I
then switched to .451 for full forming purposes, and it was
even more accurate.

There was a persistent problem throughout which was very
annoying....carbon always being blown back around the primer.
Many attempts to stop it were frustratingly futile. A few
different BP's solved nothing...including PR Bullets CF primer
conversion. Someone posted on here about stopping blowback
with their break actions having PR Bullet's BP by using small
"0" rings in the primer cup. That intrigued me to try them. It
required resetting the head space of the barrel, but by then I
was practically a pro at doing so. Now there is no blow
back. The rings last longer than anticipated, it is accurate,
and I am FINALLY happy with it.

But honestly, Savage, you could have done a much better job.

[jims]

I think Savage could have done better but 20 years or so ago when I got my first one it was about the only game in town. If I was limited to a stock .50 Savage I could live with it but today with mods etc. there are better options. I use .45s more now but in a variety of SMLs. Sav, Ruger, Rem etc.

[cuda]

What I have found over the years is that to start it really did need to be cleaned before shooting it. I used JB Bore Bright with Dremel buffing wheels washers and a screw to fit the ram rod and had to keep adjusting as the felt would wear away on my ram rod. I think it took me about a week of stroking till I thought it was clean as the tool marks were really bad. Once I had it clean I had to fix the back screw to clear when I got it tight. And once the screws were tight I had to start with one load to get my scope set. I started with 69gr of IMR4198 300gr Hornady HP bullet in a BCR sabot and a WIN209 primer. I still shoot it today and have not change the screw tension. When I did I would have to zero my scope again so I do not change them now. Most people I do not think figured out the screws as they would make the gun hit in a shotgun pattern. They did have a gun that would shoot but they had to remove the screws to clean the breach plug. One they got the socket one that could be removed without removing the screws. The POI would not change you could change from one breach plug to another with no POI change. That is why they used the 3ed screw and I do like the recessed vent liners too. And now that I have learned to shoot it and how to keep it shooting right. It can shoot 1' 3 shot groups or less at 100yds. I have seen a few 45cals that could not shoot they good. A lot has to do with the shooter most are afraid of the recoil and that is a big group killer. And I would use a drill bit to clean the breach plug and let the primer pocket a lone to seal any blow back. And I use White pipe tape to seal the breach plug too.

[rjhans53]

an original stock gun, got one don't shoot it anymore. the 2 I hunt with are 110 with pacnor 45's on them, with lukes bushing and breech plug.

[possume22]

I have a M11 from the last batch made. Got in 2012 it shoots 1-1.5 in groups @100 with just about any xtp with mmp short black or harvester BCR sabot and 40-44 gr A5744. I usually carry it the entire TN deer season.

[billc]

For my 10ML II, I got a bushing breech plug and a laminate thumbhole stock from Luke. I had bedded the original tupperware stock to stiffen it up. From day one it shot less than an inch at a hundred yards and still does. The Savage sits in the safe now days as I have a .45 Rem 700 ML that gets the duty. I will build a .40 Rem 700 ML this summer and it will move to the front of the line LOL.

[cuda]

Billc how tight are your screws they need to be tight? The screw that holds the bolt needs to be trimmed down to get it tight and still let the bolt move. And you need to remove the breach plug with the bolt in the gun. Each time you change the screw tension POI will move. And if the screws are not tight enough it will let the action move in the stock each time it is fired. The barrel was probably never fully cleaned the machine marks are bad in them. At one point I mixed JB bore bright with some vale lapping compound. And way back they were using .50 felt Dremal buffing wheels washers on a screw that fit the ram rod. You would get about a 3' screw put a washer on first them a felt then a washer and a felt I used about 5 felt washers that way. Then added a nut to hold them all tight together then screw it onto the ram rod. Tighten it all up just so you can get it into the barrel. Then add the JB or lapping compound or both and sit back and listen to the radio as you stroke the barrel. You might have to tighten it up after a while just keep adding the compound till you can a nice shinny clean barrel. With mine I first got the screws good and tight and never remove them since. I got the barrel cleaned the way I wanted it after a few days. I am disabled my right side is like I had a stroke but it is from a head injury. And part of my neck is fused and I am right handed. But I can still drive fish and hunt! Last years deer was a young 8 pointer at180yds with a heart shot. But you need a really good scope too I have a Redfield they were made by Loupold. They do not make the anymore but are a really good scop they hold up to the recoil. And when I clean the breach plug I open the bolt and remove the breach plug. I use s 3/8' ratchet a long extion a swivel and a socket.

[mrbuck]

cuda ... What are you tightening your action screws to ? 35 lbs , 40 lbs , 45 lbs ? On my 2 un-bedded laminated stocked MLIIs , I torque them to 45 lbs . Back in the day , it was recommended to set them to 26 lbs .

[northny]

I bought my first savage ml2 as my first ml to use deer hunting. At my first range trip I was keeping it under 4” at 100 yards, so on the way home I stopped and bought a second one for my son. With an upgrade to a factory laminate stock, both will hold 2” or better at 100 yards. The following year I bought a third for youngest son, and that one will hold under 2” at 100 yards also. All three are otherwise as factory and shooting with sabots have taken a lot of deer. I use a breech plug removal adapter that uses a ratcheting wrench to remove old style breech plug with four barbs. If anyone has an old style adapter like that they are willing to part with send me a PM. I have a spare old style breech plug for each rifle so I’m good for a bit. These only get limited use before and during deer season. I use my savage as a loaner rifle and I think four people other than me have taken deer with it.

For me the key to not doing a bunch of upgrades to the Savage ML was to accept it for what it was while quickly building up a custom off a Remington 700 ml. I built two of them, both will hold MOA or better out to 300 yards shooting sabot less. If f I ever take then to 300 yard range on a day with no wind I suspect it is much better. My elevation variance at 300 is usually less than an inch but I get 2-3 inch stringing horizontally in direction of wind

[billc]

Cuda,

IIRC 20 inch pounds was action screw spec. Never had an issue with bolt retention screw dragging or not holding or POI wanderings, but I did go with an in stock/bolt installed breech plug removal tool early in my SML life just in case.

As the rifle shot sub moa from day one never considered lapping the bore. I recall in the old days folks lapping the bore as you describe. I was very thankful that I didn't have to fight that fight.

Bushing breech plug upgrade was because vent liner life was short and they crapped out at the worst times.

Stiffening the Tupperware stock and later thumbhole stock replacement were personal comfort choices, maybe not necessary but nice in my opinion.

I agree that a good scope makes a world of difference. My Savage has worn the same Burris Fullfield for about 17 years and has taken deer out to 234 yards. 68 gr H4198, 300 gr 0.458 Remington in a Harvester BCR still works well.

[cuda]

Mcbuck I am not sure the bolt screw was dragging at the range so I took it out and removed a little on a cement bench. I had my allen wrench so I just started tighten it up and shooting and I got my groups smaller as I did. I tighten the front screw to the more I played with the screws the better it got. Then it just stayed where it was I even loosen and retighten each one to see where it was hitting. I know they are really tight maybe too tight but it sure shoots good where they are. I had first torqued them to 40 inch pounds and I had made few trips to the range. Then the bolt started to drag after that it was adjust and fire adjust and fire to get the group back then better. I never really checked after what they were set at. The POI has not changed since both screws are still holding but I might be over 45 maybe more.

[powderfinger]

I installed a sharpshooter trigger and had a 3rd screw installed by my gunsmith. Its SS with the laminated stock. I got it to hunt some inline seasons thereby increasing my time afield. Early Buck season in Va and bear and antlerless deer here in Pa.

[olegburn]

ML-II with 3rd action screw. Aftermarket stock with custom bedded aluminum ramrod bedded in it.
Otherwise, still factory 50
Goes bang every time- deer go FLOP!
Converted 45-70 CVA Hunter couple years back and now splitting time between the two.
Realistically most shots are under 100 yards and need no custom barrels.
I will likely sell .50
Bit heavy, otherwise perfect,
What's the market for these nowadays?