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Post by giannid on Oct 3, 2015 11:01:08 GMT -5
Have a 700ml that I want to turn into a smokeless. Unfortunately Luke is too busy to do the barrel swap for me. Good thing is he can at least do the bolt for me to the hunters conversion. I've change my savage barrel recently to a 45 McGowan and it was pretty easy. I've actually changed a few savage centerfire barrels and headspaced them with the go no go gauges. I do have an action wrench for the savage which looks like it will work for the Remington. Looking on the internet it seems like there's a lot of different opinions on getting the barrels off. Some say you need to use heat, some say not, some say soak in Kroil. What are you guys doing to get the barrel off the stainless actions? I don't have a barrel vice but was thinking off possibly buying one if I need it. Was thinking of just putting the old remington barrel in a vice and ruining it since it's really not worth anything. Is a barrel vice needed for the new barrel or can I get buy with wood? Loctite the new barrel on? As far as doing the headspace I guess you headspace the breach plug not the barrel on the remington unlike the savage. Looks like you just thread the remington barrel on tight then headspace it by working the plug. I don't have a drill press like the sticky shows on the building forum. Anyone just grind a little bit at a time until the bolt closes? Also is a new recoil lug needed or can you use the old one? Was possibly thinking of mounting the ramrod on the gun. Thanks
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Post by lwh723 on Oct 3, 2015 17:04:12 GMT -5
The biggest thing is to check and make sure the that the scope and action screws haven't bottomed out on the barrel threads. If the barrel threads are peened, then they need to be cleaned up before taking the barrel off. Sometimes the blued ones are a little stubborn, but I hardly ever have trouble with SS.
A couple of wood blocks in the bench vice will work for attaching the new barrel.
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Post by 7mmfreak on Oct 3, 2015 17:38:24 GMT -5
How do you clean up buggered up threads on the tenon? If they are mashed, and run a chance of galling/tearing, the guys I know usually cut the barrel off at the receiver face and then cut it at the thread root, just under minor diameter what is left comes out like a foil.
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Post by lwh723 on Oct 3, 2015 17:58:09 GMT -5
I've done it that way. There's been some trashed blued barrels that I think that was probably the only way I was ever getting them off.
I've got some bits from a dentist that I used in my Dremel tool. They're small enough to get down in there and clean things up.
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Post by dannoboone on Oct 3, 2015 22:59:03 GMT -5
I've done it that way. There's been some trashed blued barrels that I think that was probably the only way I was ever getting them off. I've got some bits from a dentist that I used in my Dremel tool. They're small enough to get down in there and clean things up. Do you have any anesthetic? I've got a couple bad teeth but no dental insurance. The dentists want too much. There are some very small bits that can be bought for the Dremel tool. I used one on the stainless barrel ya took off for me. Prior to that, you no doubt were wishing I had them when ya took off the blued barrel!  |
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Post by squeeze on Oct 4, 2015 17:31:54 GMT -5
MAN, aint that the truth. Im insured to the hilt, for everything but myself in dentistry. Ive probably seen a dentist 3 times in the last 30 years. I brush regular, etc. Few months back i get a toothache. I go see a dentist.. now about 8k later after seeing the guy like once a week for 8-10 visits Im about 3/4 done. All paid cash, upfront. I had to stop him and say Im tapped... maybe finish in a few seasons at least. I think when I kept paying in cash their eyes started rolling and they figured get the hooks in this guy. Before this, I was readying for a new build, and contemplating swinglock, or custom on a bolt action. Now here I sit, broke again. I got as far as a new scope, and got derailed by the dentist.. Ehh well, guess im paying up now for all the time spent without. wow that medical stuff comes dear. 80% of their fee probably goes to cover their insurance. just too many lawyers the way I see it. and too many sue happy people. The US has awesome medical, but we sure pay dear for it.
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Post by giannid on Oct 4, 2015 22:02:46 GMT -5
Got that barrel off today. Kind of a pain in the ass ass I couldn't grip the barrel tight enough to keep it from spinning in the vice. Finally just welded a piece of flat stock to the barrel so the vice had something to bite to and it came unscrewed. Hopefully I can get the new barrel tight enougn by just putting it in the vice with some blocks of wood.
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Post by BuckDoeHunter on Oct 5, 2015 5:15:34 GMT -5
Use any rosin?
Powdered sugar works great
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Post by timgunner on Oct 5, 2015 10:29:04 GMT -5
Glad you got it off! Your new barrel does not need to be anywhere near as tight at the factory barrel so don't sweat it. I don't know why Remington puts those barrels on so tight; I've used a lot of choice words trying to spin them off.
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Post by 7mmfreak on Oct 5, 2015 11:40:15 GMT -5
Remington barrels also have (I think) Loctite on them from what I've seen. A little heat will usually reduce the breaking torque.
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Post by 12ptdroptine on Oct 5, 2015 15:27:24 GMT -5
I wrap my barrels in construction paper before putting them in the vice. It worked for me...
Drop
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Post by giannid on Oct 5, 2015 16:16:28 GMT -5
I just put the barrel in the vice metal to metal because I didn't care if I thrashed the barrel. Heated it up and it still kept turning in the vice and it's a big old heavy duty vice. At that point, I just welded a piece onto it so it wouldn't turn. So what't the trick on putting the new barrel on and keeping it from turning? I obviously don't want to thrash the new barrel.
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Post by kash913 on Oct 5, 2015 16:43:09 GMT -5
MAN, aint that the truth. Im insured to the hilt, for everything but myself in dentistry. Ive probably seen a dentist 3 times in the last 30 years. I brush regular, etc. Few months back i get a toothache. I go see a dentist.. now about 8k later after seeing the guy like once a week for 8-10 visits Im about 3/4 done. All paid cash, upfront. I had to stop him and say Im tapped... maybe finish in a few seasons at least. I think when I kept paying in cash their eyes started rolling and they figured get the hooks in this guy. Before this, I was readying for a new build, and contemplating swinglock, or custom on a bolt action. Now here I sit, broke again. I got as far as a new scope, and got derailed by the dentist.. Ehh well, guess im paying up now for all the time spent without. wow that medical stuff comes dear. 80% of their fee probably goes to cover their insurance. just too many lawyers the way I see it. and too many sue happy people. The US has awesome medical, but we sure pay dear for it. Off topic but my medical Insurance in 2013 was around $12,500 a year for my family of 7 2014 went up to $15,300 because Obama tax insurance companies not us.(B.S) this year dropping the two 20-year-olds for basically the same coverage premiums went to $22,000 a year for five. I pay everything out of pocket! NOW That's a warm fuzzy feeling. Least all the people that don't have jobs have Insurance |
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Post by 12ptdroptine on Oct 5, 2015 17:16:57 GMT -5
Anti seize...and DONT overtighten.....
Drop
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Post by giannid on Oct 5, 2015 20:33:23 GMT -5
I was thinking loctite on the threads, lol. Guess not.
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Post by rossman40 on Oct 6, 2015 1:16:06 GMT -5
On the blued models it isn't Loctite from the factory, it's a type of thread sealer. They use it so when the barreled action goes into the blueing tank the caustic blueing salts do not go into the threads and start rusting, doesn't always work.
Another trick for those that will not come off and if the old barrel is junk is to go to a truck garage or tire place and ask for messed up outer Budd nut. Drop it bevel side down over the barrel and where it stops weld it, then cut barrel forward of the nut off. Put the action in a big vice with a V block kinda on the bottom side and a stout 1"X2" in the loading port so it will not turn. Then put a 1 1/2" socket on a 3/4" impact gun and hammer the budd nut you welded on the barrel, it will come loose.
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Post by timgunner on Oct 6, 2015 7:54:00 GMT -5
To keep from screwing up the new barrel make some barrel vice jaws. Get a piece of dense hardwood like oak a couple pieces 2x2x3 will be plenty big. Make sure the grain is straight, perpendicular to one edge. Clamp the two pieces together and drill a hole through the centerline where they meet. Use a drill bit smaller than the OD of the barrel. I clamp barrels as close to the action as possible for best leverage. Sandwich your barrel in the wood jaws then clamp it all in your vice. You will want to use a cheater bar on the vice handle to get a good bite on the barrel. Keep tightening until you are crushing wood fibers and there is strong resistance. Then just spin on your action and tighten it. Don't worry about it slipping in the blocks by that time if you have tightened it as I described the barrel will be plenty tight. I also don't bother with rosin when installing barrels because they don't need to be factory tight anyway.
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Post by rossman40 on Oct 6, 2015 18:17:00 GMT -5
I've had guns sent to me where guys have done the barrel swap and then after about 25-50 shots they went to re-install the breechplug after maintenance and when they tightened the breechplug the barrel screwed out. So some torque is necessary, I go for at least 75 ft/lbs on a Remy and would like 100-125 if the barrel is never coming off again. Using a clamp style action wrench can be deceiving, if you over tighten the clamping screws your actually squeezing the action threads into the barrel so you think you have it tight when it is not. CFs are easy, just use a action wrench that goes into the bolt raceways.
Instead of construction paper to protect the finish I use drywall tape, much easier to use.
The real test on getting a barrel off is a Howa or a Weatherby Vanguard. They must use Sumo wrestlers to tighten those. Eat a extra bowl of Wheaties and grab a 6' cheater pipe cause they are torqued about 300ft/lbs. Then you will run into a Howa that you have to put the barrel blocks in a 20 ton press to be able not to have the barrel turn.
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Post by rjhans53 on Oct 6, 2015 18:49:05 GMT -5
ken, the 2 vanguards I took I finally gave up and used a 24" pipe wrench, wasn't a big deal was going to throw em away any way, oh and old 98 mausers can be worse
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