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Post by slugger on Jan 14, 2015 21:01:05 GMT -5
I've been working on a project rifle for a long time. I got it together now and shootable. It is a Herders Mauser intermediate action and a 6mm rem 26" barrel 1 in 12 twist. A nice Timney trigger and composite stalk. The problem: The scope doesn't line up to the bore. I have tried three different scopes too. I tried Burris Signature rings with 20" off set inserts, Not enough. Then Weaver grand slam ring with windage , still not enough. If a person moved the front base back about a screw thickness can a person have new base holes drilled and tapped ? Any guess on a price for some thing like this? It is only a guess that the front holes are wrong . What would you do ?
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Post by airborneike on Jan 14, 2015 22:25:21 GMT -5
Slugger,
Be careful drilling the front sight base holes in a Mauser because there is a very small area to work with. The front screw must be into the barrel thread section and clear the primary torque shoulder and the second screw must be located in the bolt lug race. There is not a lot of movement forward and reverse for the front sight base.
You might try a Leupold base, they have quite a bit of lateral movement.
Hope this helps, Mauser actions are nice in my opinion.
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Post by jims on Jan 14, 2015 22:45:49 GMT -5
In its time the Herter's book was the Brownell's of its day. Good luck with your project.
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Post by hankinsrfls on Jan 15, 2015 15:39:26 GMT -5
Depending on how much you need to move and how big the screw holes are already you could do this..
Using a milling machine, vise up your action and get it positioned straight up. Using an end mill of the correct size you can bore off center of the existing holes. So lets say your screws are a #6 you could open them up to a #8 and move the hole one way or the other. To move it left cut all your metal off the left side and don't remove ant metal from the right side of the hole. If a #8 won't get you enough then do a #10. Always choose the finest thread screws you can.. I hope I explained this good enough for you to understand what I mean by moving the hole.
One more caution to remember.. Mauser actions will harden while you are drilling if you get the metal to hot. I've seen this before on a Mauser that a friend of mine tried drilling in a drill press, he ran the drill bit so fast it turned red and the action hardened. He had to bring it to me and I used a solid carbide end mill to finish drilling the holes... Use plenty of coolant on the cutting tool and run it slow and steady.. Unless you're using carbide, then you want to speed it up quite a bit.. Jeff...
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Post by 7mmfreak on Jan 15, 2015 21:54:47 GMT -5
Jeff, what do you charge for that operation? I recently had this issue pop up on the last two Rem 700 I picked for a TAC match rifle. Chad at Long Rifles, Inc. wants $25 per hole which honestly, I find reasonable.
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Post by hankinsrfls on Jan 16, 2015 0:47:39 GMT -5
$100.00 is a fare price to fix something like that.. I surely hope that Remington can keep their holes in-line and centered being that they are using CNC equipment but I guess you'll get a bad one every once in a while..
What ever happened to high quality.,, I guess that went out the window when cheap came in it...
Jeff...
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Post by 7mmfreak on Jan 16, 2015 9:16:59 GMT -5
I found it on one gun, just back from getting barreled, when I was gaining .2mil of windage over the course of 300yds on a no wind day. The gun and scope were leveled so I knew it wasn't a cant issue. I pulled the scope and using a cross test level could tell the mount was torqued. I pulled the base and could see it with my eyes; the holes on the rear bridge were off. Bedding the base with the rear floating pretty much eliminated the issue but isn't a real fix. The issue with that action is I got it from my brother on a trade and he had already had the holes opened up to 8x40 so I don't know if a 10x32 would be a good option or if TIG welding over and re-boring holes is the better solution.
The second was a short action I picked up on the Black Friday deal. First thing I did was look at the holes and I am fairly certain the rear bridge is off again. I nearly slammed it through the dry wall but after selling the barrel and stock on it I have under $200 in the action so putting some money into it to make it right is not a big deal.
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Post by DHinMN on Jan 16, 2015 16:24:15 GMT -5
I had that problem about 50 yrs ago. I don't think the action threads are quite straight and the barrel is just off slightly from the action. Williams Gunsight made a base and rings that had some built in adjustment in it for windage. That worked for me. I don't know if they still make that or not.
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