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Post by 7mmfreak on Jan 9, 2015 18:49:42 GMT -5
I had to post this one for my namesake: Trued Remington 700LA finished in Norrell Moly Lilja No4, 1-9" twist, crowned at a touch under 25" (set back and re-chamber from .280 Improved 40°) Shilen Trigger set at 1.5# (trying trigger out before it goes on another gun that is waiting on a barrel) McMillan ADJ. Game Scout (standard fill) Murphy Precision Ti 10MOA base (bedded to receiver) Bushnell HDMR in Seekins .920" rings Sunshade removed because my brother said the scope looked huge:
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Post by deadeye on Jan 9, 2015 19:12:01 GMT -5
nice & reports when available!
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Post by 7mmfreak on Jan 10, 2015 15:33:53 GMT -5
We already reviewed the HDMR and we know I like 7mm's so I will mostly cover the McMillan Game Scout. For a heavy sporter it is a very good stock. It is essentially a Remington Classic butt-stock and forearm with an A-3 pistol grip. That said, some say that the stock has too much drop from comb to heel. It is also thinner than the A series at the comb. This is the second one ever made with an adjustable comb. I have never had to raise one so high (and that scope is mounted low) so the jury is still out on whether I can comfortably use this optic or if I need a smaller optic. If I go smaller it will be the Bushnell LRHS. I had to raise this one 1.087" to put my eye perfectly in line with the exit pupil: All of the rest of the parts in the cheek-piece are anodized aluminum but the thumb screw is steel. I'm not one of those people with an "orange touch" but this thing did begin to develop light surface rust; I always put new fiberglass stocks in the attic or truck cab for a week or two where it gets really hot to help ensure all resins completely cure. It was during this process I first noticed a light surface rust. I had it coated in the Norrell Moly: As stated, the forearm is a standard Classic and as such will only take up to a typical No5 barrel. One doesn't really need more than that for a long range sporter or walking varminter. This is the No4 Lilja which allows enough material left in the forearm to be rigid without needing a fat stock that makes for a bulky rifle: Same barrel finished up with a good, sharp, flat-recessed crown for the 1-9" twist, 6-groove bore:
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Post by Deleted on Jan 10, 2015 18:21:16 GMT -5
Great lookin' gun!
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Post by 7mmfreak on Jan 10, 2015 19:56:09 GMT -5
I went out and shot the rifle tonight to ensure everything was working properly. I had one box of of Federal 175gn soft points that I took with me to get the gun on paper and to put down the tube to see if things were working ok. I hand load coated bullets so I shoot a box of factory ammo (I like Federal brass for the 7mm RM) through the guns to help with whatever throat "break-in" might occur. In general, I have had talented people chamber my guns and this break-in seems to be a moot point. Everything worked fine, brass came out of the chamber in pristine shape, and the rifle shot about 1 MOA. I still need to bed the gun and get to loading ammo. I measured the cartridge base to datum line on the shoulder for the new factory cartridges: I measured it again after it was fired in the gun: This is something I consistently run into with belted and rimmed cartridges. I just use my sizing dies to create a two-point headspace condition instead of just using the belt.I can't say that it helps or hurts accuracy but I do think it helps prevent over-working your brass. My other gun is about .004" shorter than this gun.
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Post by deadeye on Jan 10, 2015 23:54:45 GMT -5
using that gauge just bump those shoulders back to approx 4.120-4.121 & watch groups tighten. of course you know that!
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Post by airborneike on Jan 11, 2015 0:24:08 GMT -5
Keith,
Turned out nice and will make a fine hunting rifle. Wouldn't be afraid to take it out to 800 or so.
+1 on Deadeyes recommendation...won't take much to get it to sub half. Good barrel, just skinny.
Wouldn't mind keeping that one in my safe
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