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Post by wayles on Dec 6, 2014 15:44:57 GMT -5
I thought I sent this once but can't find it?
Anyway is there a positive way to identify a walker trigger on the rem 700 opposed to one of the custom jobs. Its a real concern and I would like to be sure.
Wayles
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Post by dannoboone on Dec 7, 2014 12:19:47 GMT -5
Can't vouch for the others, but my Timney looks nothing like the Walker.
It's similar in shape only. A lot of the on-line companies that sell
triggers have photos of them, if that's any help.
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Post by wayles on Dec 7, 2014 14:01:06 GMT -5
That's a good idea. I have the rifle basic on one of my Rem 30-06 and a jaeger on a mauser . The only one I am unsure of is my Rem. sendero. It went off once when cycling the bolt. I had just shot a deer and I am not sure weather my left hand hit the trigger or not. I was laying down shooting off a bipod. It was extremely cold in western NE and I had a glove on my left hand. The shot went in a safe direction of the already dead deer.
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Post by sourdough44 on Dec 22, 2014 16:15:32 GMT -5
I would do some testing, especially if you don't know the history since new. I would bet most casual owners and shooters don't go with an aftermarket trigger.
Put the gun on 'safe' then apply trigger pressure, then put it on 'fire'. Do the same as a 'bump test', safe, pressure, then on fire, after that gently bump the rifle butt on the floor. Do a few after cycling the bolt.
I only have two 700 actions, one has a Timney trigger, the other a Shilen.
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Post by wayles on Jan 1, 2015 10:25:45 GMT -5
I have done the testing and could not get it to fire
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Post by airborneike on Jan 11, 2015 0:48:12 GMT -5
Wayles,
I too have had a Remington 700 (walker trigger) go off.
From what I have found, the trigger design has an area where dirt and old lube can sort of pile up and cause the rifle to fire when the safety is pushed off.
The solution as advised by a knowledgeable friend was to clean the trigger thoroughly with lighter fluid and gently blow it out with compressed air. Did this several times and have not had any problems since.
I think it is a good idea to clean triggers on a routine basis and make sure no oil or any other lubricant gets into the trigger mechanism.
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Post by rossman40 on Jan 14, 2015 10:05:45 GMT -5
There is a hole in the case where the detent ball on the safety goes when moved to the fire position. The detent ball can actually touch the trigger. If FOD gets in there it can cause the gun to go off when the safety is moved from safe to fire. It can also cause the trigger not to get full reset with the sear. Then another design weakness is that the safety kinda "cams" under the sear and can actual lift the sear off the trigger/sear engagement. Adjusting the trigger to minimum sear engagement (taking the creep out) and then lighting the pull just makes the chances of a AD (Accidental Discharge) increase astronomically. Part of your function test should also include working the safety 5 or 6 times. I know some of the aftermarket triggers for the Savage will let the sear drop if you work the safety enough times.
It is fairly easy to disassemble the trigger but you do not want to make it a regular thing. You could wear out the fit of the trigger pin. So a good "flush" every now and then works wonders. I have found 700MLs to have some of the filthest triggers due to when you clean the barrel bore, if any solvents get into the bolt area it is easy to get funneled and go right down into the trigger. My favorite lube for triggers is Lockease, basically graphite suspended in Stoddard solvent. The Stoddard solvent carries the graphite into all the places and then evaporates leaving the dry graphite.
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Post by Jon on Jan 14, 2015 11:30:43 GMT -5
Another lube I use is dry slide I started using it many years ago on motor cycle cables back then almost everything was cable now most have gone to hydraulic on clutches etc. But any way it worked like lube that Ken mentioned. It goes on wet then the liquid evaporates and leaves a dry graphite coating.
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Post by jims on Jan 14, 2015 13:14:40 GMT -5
Good point on the lube. I have had two triggers over the years in extreme cold would not engage, think grease/oil/dirt solidified and would not fire. Probably wrong but used cleaner and removed all lube. They may only fire now 5 times a year so I was not too worried about excessive wear.
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Post by wayles on Jan 23, 2015 18:25:35 GMT -5
All good info on the triggers. Weather has a lot to do with the function of mechanical devices. I have a model 98 mouser 30-06 with a jaeger trigger fail to fire on a huge 8 pointer directly under the tree. [Largest 8 I had ever saw} Had been in the tree for 6 hours in barely above "o" weather on the Niobrara river in western NE. When I squeezed nothing happened. I squeezed again and nothing. I looked at the gun action while keeping it pointed in the deer's general direction. Safety was off and the exposed portion was slowly moving forward, then it jumped forward and fired. Racked the bolt and pulled the trigger on his fleeing butt. Deer was gone when gun fired. It had done the same delay fire again. Barely missed the deer on the first delay shot. Went home disgusted and half froze. Took the bolt apart and could not really find much crud, oil, or moisture. Put in a light weight firing pin and a heavier spring. I use oil preseason, alcohol during. I don't figure I shoot enough anymore to wear one out with just hunting.
Still wish I knew for sure what happened on the .300 win mag accidental discharge
Wayles
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Post by jims on Jan 24, 2015 8:38:36 GMT -5
That frigid of weather can have an effect on the trigger puller also.
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Post by wayles on Jan 24, 2015 14:48:15 GMT -5
Jims it sure can, I have laid in wait in a low spot on the open praire till I was unable to take a long distance shot due to oncoming hypothermia. Would have been a chip shot off my bipod during normal weather. Again went home about froze after it got dark enough I could sneak out of there without spookin the deer.
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