|
Post by jsthntn247 on Oct 20, 2014 9:15:14 GMT -5
Since were not going to be able to get any MH's in the near future, I'm thinking about going with the 300gr BE's instead. Do these seem to shoot better or as good without a wad since they obturate quicker? I know I'll have to try both and see for myself but just wondering what the general consensus has been.
|
|
|
Post by bigwoods on Oct 20, 2014 10:10:15 GMT -5
Im new to sabotless and learning so I will ask the question.....why not use a wad for all sabotless bullets? Is there an advantage to going without a wad? I've been reading a ton but there seems to be a lot of variables. I'm thankfull so many great members have done testing and shared their findings. It saves a lot of time but there is a huge pile of data to sift through. All I need is a load good enough to reach the vitals of a deer at 300 yards so I shouldnt have too much a problem.
|
|
|
Post by jims on Oct 20, 2014 11:53:11 GMT -5
When I shoot sabotless I use a fiber wad. I have gotten better accuracy and slightly higher speeds.
|
|
|
Post by jsthntn247 on Oct 20, 2014 11:59:44 GMT -5
I have a muzzlebrake on my rifle. How would I get the wad down through it and make sure it was oriented like it needed to be. I considered lightly gluing a wad to the bottom of the bullet.
|
|
|
Post by Richard on Oct 20, 2014 14:49:21 GMT -5
If you shoot sabot less with a FULL FORMED bullet it seems that most do not need a wad. The bullet itself being aligned in the rifling provide enough resistance where no wad is needed. If you shoot LAND RIDERS, then you do need a wad otherwise pressure will leak past in the groves (which are not sealed). Its the wad that will conform initially, into the grove to cause a seal. I cannot prove one way or the other whether or not the bullet will FATTEN UP or OBTURATE enough to actually fill the groves. I do know that with the .060" thick veggie wads they seal tight enough for me to obtain single number extreme spreads sometimes. So is it the bullet or the wad?? IDUNNO? But what I do know is if your ES's are low there is sealing taking place. If you accuracy is also good? Then you know the bullet is at least "grabbing" the rifling and it is rotating sufficiently to get that accuracy. If that bullet is slip/sliding down the bore, accuracy will suffer. I believe that if poled, the majority of sabot less shooters here will tell you they use the veggie wads vs. the wool. Richard
|
|
|
Post by Dave W on Oct 20, 2014 18:39:56 GMT -5
I like the veggie wads. Started out with the .442/451 full forming with no wads, accuracy was good but the ES was not what I was used to with the .458. Tried the veggies in it and the ES tightened right up. I also like the seal they give to keep air away from the powder.
JMO Use whatever works best, for me-veggie wads.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 20, 2014 18:53:23 GMT -5
Most of my barrels I use a wool wad for smooth sabotless but one shoots nice tight groups with no wad using 275 BE's. Try it both ways. You might be surprised.
|
|
|
Post by jims on Oct 20, 2014 20:41:10 GMT -5
I had a removable muzzlebrake and would remove it to load to avoid the difficulties with it in loading, indexing etc. I think some of the guys have a special muzzle devise they use when they load with the brake on so there is no powder spillage etc.
|
|
|
Post by gar on Oct 21, 2014 6:15:16 GMT -5
The 300 BE's should work well. I can shoot with or without wads smooth formed, but because of the weather in the fall, I just feel better using a lubed wool wad as an additional moisture barrier.
|
|
|
Post by rangeball on Oct 21, 2014 8:54:08 GMT -5
I had a removable muzzlebrake and would remove it to load to avoid the difficulties with it in loading, indexing etc. I think some of the guys have a special muzzle devise they use when they load with the brake on so there is no powder spillage etc. jims, screw on or clamp on?
|
|
|
Post by jsthntn247 on Oct 21, 2014 8:59:28 GMT -5
My muzzlebrake does not come off. Anybody ever put a dab of crazy glue on the bottom of the bullet. I would think ignition and 2700 fps would make it fall off pretty quickly.
|
|
|
Post by jims on Oct 21, 2014 11:07:20 GMT -5
Rangeball: Mine was a screw on, I think Vais, installed by Krieger when they did my barrel. One could barely see the part line between the two. Some of my other brakes were by Mag na Port and EDMed in. I have a brake on a .45 Douglas I got from bestill, it is removable also. It took two deer recently but I had the brake off, not real wild about brakes. If one crazy glued to the bullet I would have some concerns, if some fell off and some did not or partially came off it could affect accuracy. You could test to try out.
|
|