Bed and build a synthetic Remington stocked ML
Sept 26, 2014 19:55:34 GMT -5
Post by Richard on Sept 26, 2014 19:55:34 GMT -5
How to bed and build a Remington factory synthetic stock.
This was going to go in the build section but seeing as how Hank put is description of building a breech plug on the main forum, I felt this should also go there as not everyone looks in that section. If the moderators wish to move it, so be it.
From time to time people have inquired as to whether a synthetic s\tock could be bedded? And in my opinion, yes……..but, it take a bit of work and knowledge of the materials used and the preparation needed. The material that is used to make these synthetic stocks…….NOT fiber or graphite stocks but the ones that are b low molded, does not allow for the bedding materials we use to properly adhere. So what has to be done is the areas of bedding need to be heavily gouged out so the bedding material can get into these gouges and “mechanically” lock themselves in.
If I can get the photos to properly follow along, you will see how the original Remington is transformed into a solid shooter. I start by taping off the exterior and then, with the use of a die grinder, drill and dremel tool proceed to gouge and drill holes for the various material to get into and form that lock. I always drill into the sides of the stock at an angle so the material cannot pull out. First a wood block is epoxied into the mag. well. I use a piece of barrel with release agent on it to keep the shape.
Next you will see the aluminum arrow shaft I have embedded into the forend to stiffen it up. I have laid the barrel on the filler to now form the barrel channel. The aluminum pillars are now glued in. Again, those holes have been gouged so the epoxy bonds and locks them in place. The barrel channel is sanded out with various size dowels to form the proper clearance. Next the action and barrel are pre-bedded with Marine Tex epoxy.
Turning the stock over, I added (to this gun) a little “glitz” with a 5/8” wide piece of ¼” thick aluminum which is mated to the trigger guard.
For this build I added a teardrop handle to the bolt. The old knob is ground round and threaded. The teardrop is being made in the lathe.
Since these stocks are completely hollow I fitted a piece of ¼” thick wood all the way from the butt to where the pistol grip starts. This is just contact cemented in. On either side I stuff Styrofoam peanuts as filler. Then a ¼” thick piece of wood is fitted to the but and nailed to the long re-enforcing piece and glued in. I keep the existing holes which go into the molded plastic for attachment of the New Kick-Eze recoil pad.
On this particular build (which might be for sale) I decided to put one of Harrell’s radial muzzle brakes on AND include a thread protector that matches up precisely to the barrel so that when viewed, no one (yes, very close inspection might…) would know the barrel was threaded.
Next you will see all the yellow masking tape on the action and Picatinny rail being bedded to the action. Some where in the photos is the finished bedding job with the forend filler sanded and painted. Bedding is from the taper on the barrel to the rear tang.
I use a acid etching kit to put whatever information I want on the barrel.
The rest of the pictures are just the “customary” glamour shots. BTW, all the bedding and forend re-enforcing only added 11 oz. to the weight of the stock. The rifle, complete with the Burris 4 – 14.5 scope is 10 lbs. 4 oz. with 25” Pac-Nor barrel.
After three shots to get on paper, the next five saboted .40 Nosler 200 gr. bullets formed a round 1.2” group.
This was going to go in the build section but seeing as how Hank put is description of building a breech plug on the main forum, I felt this should also go there as not everyone looks in that section. If the moderators wish to move it, so be it.
From time to time people have inquired as to whether a synthetic s\tock could be bedded? And in my opinion, yes……..but, it take a bit of work and knowledge of the materials used and the preparation needed. The material that is used to make these synthetic stocks…….NOT fiber or graphite stocks but the ones that are b low molded, does not allow for the bedding materials we use to properly adhere. So what has to be done is the areas of bedding need to be heavily gouged out so the bedding material can get into these gouges and “mechanically” lock themselves in.
If I can get the photos to properly follow along, you will see how the original Remington is transformed into a solid shooter. I start by taping off the exterior and then, with the use of a die grinder, drill and dremel tool proceed to gouge and drill holes for the various material to get into and form that lock. I always drill into the sides of the stock at an angle so the material cannot pull out. First a wood block is epoxied into the mag. well. I use a piece of barrel with release agent on it to keep the shape.
Next you will see the aluminum arrow shaft I have embedded into the forend to stiffen it up. I have laid the barrel on the filler to now form the barrel channel. The aluminum pillars are now glued in. Again, those holes have been gouged so the epoxy bonds and locks them in place. The barrel channel is sanded out with various size dowels to form the proper clearance. Next the action and barrel are pre-bedded with Marine Tex epoxy.
Turning the stock over, I added (to this gun) a little “glitz” with a 5/8” wide piece of ¼” thick aluminum which is mated to the trigger guard.
For this build I added a teardrop handle to the bolt. The old knob is ground round and threaded. The teardrop is being made in the lathe.
Since these stocks are completely hollow I fitted a piece of ¼” thick wood all the way from the butt to where the pistol grip starts. This is just contact cemented in. On either side I stuff Styrofoam peanuts as filler. Then a ¼” thick piece of wood is fitted to the but and nailed to the long re-enforcing piece and glued in. I keep the existing holes which go into the molded plastic for attachment of the New Kick-Eze recoil pad.
On this particular build (which might be for sale) I decided to put one of Harrell’s radial muzzle brakes on AND include a thread protector that matches up precisely to the barrel so that when viewed, no one (yes, very close inspection might…) would know the barrel was threaded.
Next you will see all the yellow masking tape on the action and Picatinny rail being bedded to the action. Some where in the photos is the finished bedding job with the forend filler sanded and painted. Bedding is from the taper on the barrel to the rear tang.
I use a acid etching kit to put whatever information I want on the barrel.
The rest of the pictures are just the “customary” glamour shots. BTW, all the bedding and forend re-enforcing only added 11 oz. to the weight of the stock. The rifle, complete with the Burris 4 – 14.5 scope is 10 lbs. 4 oz. with 25” Pac-Nor barrel.
After three shots to get on paper, the next five saboted .40 Nosler 200 gr. bullets formed a round 1.2” group.
