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Post by bowhunter1661 on Jul 7, 2014 12:07:05 GMT -5
Just curious what Input you guys would have on scope bases. I was looking into my options and saw 20 MOA bases. This being my first build I am not sure if this would be necessary to get proper adjustment out of my scope at longer distances, and not have over adjustment issues with it. I can't recall the technical term but I know as you near the end of adjustment the spring tension changes on the turret And can cause lose of zero? I am planning on running a vortex viper 6.5x20. If I am in the 2700 FPS range I should have a max of around 23 MOA of adjustment to shoot out to 800 yds and that scope has 65 MOA of internal adjustment. Sounds to me that I don't need the 20 MOA base but I just wanted a second opinion.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 7, 2014 12:49:11 GMT -5
Generally the scope will be mostly centered in that 65moa so really you only have ~32.5moa for drop. The XHCG tru level 20moa base is intriguing to me but I haven't tried one yet. The leupold mark IV bases are pretty good and allow for a base screw enlargement.
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Post by bowhunter1661 on Jul 9, 2014 1:25:30 GMT -5
Excellent info on the centering. I was Unaware that it's pretty much split in half for the travel up or down from center. I just looked into the tru level base. I really like it, the only problem that i am having now is the fact I am a real stickler for having things match, and no one seems to make a tactical style 20 moa base in SS or silver color. I would like to match my barrelled action. Anyone know of anything? I suppose that I could just rattle can it but don't want it to look like s**t. Or to have it chip off
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Post by 7mmfreak on Jul 9, 2014 4:18:19 GMT -5
Murphy Precision makes 20MOA bases in steel or titanium. I have used his bases for a few years with no complaints. Just like any base make sure you either lap or bed it or it will likely have some twist/bend/stress in it due to your receiver not being "straight". You can see it with your eye if you tighten down the rear bridge; their will often be daylight between the base and the front receiver ring. A pair or cross levels will make it glaringly apparent if you tighten down front and rear without lapping or bedding.
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Post by bowhunter1661 on Jul 9, 2014 11:29:35 GMT -5
Murphy Precision makes 20MOA bases in steel or titanium. I have used his bases for a few years with no complaints. Just like any base make sure you either lap or bed it or it will likely have some twist/bend/stress in it due to your receiver not being "straight". You can see it with your eye if you tighten down the rear bridge; their will often be daylight between the base and the front receiver ring. A pair or cross levels will make it glaringly apparent if you tighten down front and rear without lapping or bedding. What rings do you use? I once again I have been looking and looking for tactical style stainless or silver rings but the only ones I can find are Murphy's and there's no way I am spending that kind of cash in a set of rings.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 9, 2014 13:02:22 GMT -5
Rossman40 can have bases and rings coated to match stainless very well. Possibly cheaper and definitely easier than finding just what you want in a stainless finish.
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Post by 7mmfreak on Jul 9, 2014 16:19:54 GMT -5
bowhunter1661, I shoot Nightforce Ultra-Light rings with bubble-level tops. The rings are anodized black but have Titanium cross lug/screw and jaws so the rings are black and grey. I also use the Murphy Titanium base and leave it unfinished. Black and grey don't both me. I actually like to mix and match some colors.
If you insist on a silver/grey finish buy a stainless/Ti/Al base (I don't like Aluminum for bases) and Aluminum rings and take them to a shop and have them media blasted so they match. It is much cheaper than buying high dollar rings and having them coated. A good product for the money is the TPS Products, LLC. TSR rings. They are Aluminum and would finish up grey if you blasted them. I have used them on guns for a couple of friends and have been happy with them.
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Post by hankinsrfls on Jul 9, 2014 16:56:38 GMT -5
myers129"
You might even consider contacting hankins custom rifles and ask about his die that will do both smooth and full form. It is a little more than swinglocks full form die but it will do both for you. Beyond that I know nothing about it, never seen a picture or report of its use.
The smooth die I make cost $150.00 and to add the full form option I need a barrel drop that is at least .750 long and preferably 1.0 long. I will then make the full form bushing for $35.00. This brings the total cost for both dies to $185.00
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Post by Deleted on Jul 9, 2014 18:20:18 GMT -5
myers129" You might even consider contacting hankins custom rifles and ask about his die that will do both smooth and full form. It is a little more than swinglocks full form die but it will do both for you. Beyond that I know nothing about it, never seen a picture or report of its use. The smooth die I make cost $150.00 and to add the full form option I need a barrel drop that is at least .750 long and preferably 1.0 long. I will then make the full form bushing for $35.00. This brings the total cost for both dies to $185.00 Jeff, what's the lead time on one of your "dual" die set ups once you receive the drop? Thanks in advance, Guy
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Post by lwh723 on Jul 9, 2014 18:37:18 GMT -5
Murphy Precision makes 20MOA bases in steel or titanium. I have used his bases for a few years with no complaints. Just like any base make sure you either lap or bed it or it will likely have some twist/bend/stress in it due to your receiver not being "straight". You can see it with your eye if you tighten down the rear bridge; their will often be daylight between the base and the front receiver ring. A pair or cross levels will make it glaringly apparent if you tighten down front and rear without lapping or bedding. Yeah, it can be shocking sometimes how much a one piece base will have to warp/bend to conform to the receiver. Murphy makes great bases. Actually, I carry both the 0 & 20moa for the 700SA/ML. I've also used some his rings and have a set of the TI rings on my light weight gun. They're nice, but definitely spendy.
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Post by hankinsrfls on Jul 9, 2014 18:48:28 GMT -5
Ohioguy.
I have the smooth form dies in stock for 45 caliber. I can make the full form bushing in about a week once I receive the drop.
Jeff.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 9, 2014 19:13:53 GMT -5
Thank you!
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Post by bowhunter1661 on Jul 9, 2014 19:32:13 GMT -5
Well I said heck with it and just decided to do matte black rings and base. I just placed my order for viper 30 mm rings, weaver picatini rail, and vortex viper 6.5-20x44. Btw midway had the scope on sale now for 299
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Post by Dave W on Jul 9, 2014 20:25:07 GMT -5
Ohioguy. I have the smooth form dies in stock for 45 caliber. I can make the full form bushing in about a week once I receive the drop. Jeff. Have a video of your die operation?
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Post by hankinsrfls on Jul 9, 2014 20:45:51 GMT -5
It's pretty self explanatory. Run bullet through, if still to big, tighten and run bullet through again... Do this until you get the size you want.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 9, 2014 20:49:48 GMT -5
Jeff if you get a chance to post a pic or two, I know it would be greatly appreciated. Guys around here really like to see the product before they commit. I assume you can produce these in about any caliber?
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Post by hankinsrfls on Jul 9, 2014 20:55:51 GMT -5
Myers129
I have plenty of them for the 45 caliber, I have 5 for the 408-416.. And yes I could make one for just about any caliber you needed it for..
I will have a few set up at the shoot so you can use one first hand there....
Jeff.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 9, 2014 21:03:14 GMT -5
Sounds good thanks
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Post by 7mmfreak on Jul 10, 2014 8:50:26 GMT -5
It's pretty self explanatory. Run bullet through, if still to big, tighten and run bullet through again... Do this until you get the size you want. Nobody likes being condescended to. Having the dies at the shoot is awesome for guys going to the shoot but for the untold number of potential customers a video or pictures might be appreciated. Like someone else mentioned, people like to know what they are buying.
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Post by Dave W on Jul 10, 2014 10:03:34 GMT -5
It's pretty self explanatory. Run bullet through, if still to big, tighten and run bullet through again... Do this until you get the size you want. I have a Swinglock FF die, wanted to see how yours compares for quality and operation.
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Post by hankinsrfls on Jul 10, 2014 10:05:32 GMT -5
The die consists of three main parts. The die body, The sizing bushing, and the sizing nut. It is intended to be used in a standard reloading press. It works like any other sizing die except you can change the bushing from smooth forming to full forming in just a minute or two. This saves you from buying two complete dies if you wanted to have the option for both. As you tighten the sizing nut the bullet bushing will get smaller in size therefor squeezing your bullets diameter down to the exact diameter you want. Sorry but I don't have any pictures available yet, I will be adding it to my website very soon.
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Post by hankinsrfls on Jul 10, 2014 10:21:19 GMT -5
It's pretty self explanatory. Run bullet through, if still to big, tighten and run bullet through again... Do this until you get the size you want. I have a Swinglock FF die, wanted to see how yours compares for quality and operation. I have always supplied a smooth die with each rifle I build, however these dies were made to do the Parker BE bullets and would not work on some of the other bullets that people like to shoot. So I decided to make my own version of adjustable dies. This way the end user could choose what bullet they wanted to shoot and weather to full form it or smooth size it. I put a lot of thought into the design because I wanted it to be universal in that the same die could do both operations. If you have more than one 45 caliber rifle that you wanted to size for you only need to buy an extra bushing ($35.00) not a complete die. The body and sizing nut is made from 4140 steel, heat treated and then bead blasted and blued. The sizing bushing is made from 416 stainless same as your rifle barrel. I don't have pictures yet but will try to post some as soon as I can. I know a picture is worth a 1000 words so let me see what I can do.....
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Post by hawghunter on Jul 10, 2014 21:19:35 GMT -5
Jeff. It sounds like you ha
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Post by hawghunter on Jul 10, 2014 21:20:10 GMT -5
Je
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