|
|
Post by Tarheel on Apr 1, 2009 15:13:23 GMT -5
Back again. How often do you clean the barrel with solvent? On average how many shots do you get before accuracy diminishes and the barrel needs cleaning. What solvent do you all use? And is the gunslick bore foam OK for the job? thanks for the help. Also, how much does vent liner condition affect accuracy?
|
|
|
|
Post by bowbender6 on Apr 1, 2009 15:20:30 GMT -5
My gun shoots best not cleaned - I have gone 100-200 shot with no cleaning, just keep checking the ventliner hole.
|
|
|
|
Post by whyohe on Apr 1, 2009 16:27:16 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by Chris Champion on Apr 1, 2009 17:10:42 GMT -5
Ditto to what bowbender said. My 50 cal barrel took about 10 shots to get dialed in on a clean bore. Then I would clean the barrel every 50 shots and drill the breech plug and change the vent every 100.
|
|
cgg
Spike
Posts: 48 
|
Post by cgg on Apr 1, 2009 17:13:47 GMT -5
I clean my bore every 20 to 30 shots and check the vent liner then too. Vent liner condition plays a big role in the Savage's accuracy. I shoot factory Savage vent liners and replace them when the flash hole erodes enough to allow a .035" wire through--that is usually after about 60 to 80 shots.
Lots of people with more experience than me have all kinds of opinions and advice about breech plugs and vent liners. Search around the board and experiment to see what works for you. Have fun.
|
|
|
|
Post by screwbolts on Apr 1, 2009 17:53:22 GMT -5
Ditto to what bowbender said. I clean when the whim is right, I haven't noticed any degrade of accuracy regardless of shots. I do check the vent every 50 shots or so. I have never used a brush in my bore.
Ken
|
|
|
|
Post by whyohe on Apr 1, 2009 21:35:33 GMT -5
i should have pointed out that its really not for accuracy that i brush every third, but that it gets so hard to load after 3 shots.
|
|
|
|
Post by Tarheel on Apr 1, 2009 21:42:48 GMT -5
speaking of which, the ramrods are too flexible, Any suggestions? I thought of having a machinist put a piece of brass round stock to the existing ends
|
|
|
|
Post by jims on Apr 1, 2009 22:19:14 GMT -5
Some of the guys have bought I believe a Thompson Center power rod or its clone or built one themselves. They may chime in as some had photos etc. The stiffer rod works much better than the "noodle" that Savage supplied.
I think Sportsmans Guide also sells the Power Rod that works well for many.
|
|
|
|
Post by wilmsmeyer on Apr 2, 2009 4:41:50 GMT -5
A stiff rod will be your best bet. You don't want a lot of bending going on when pushing something tight fitting down the bore. Solid aluminum works good.
|
|
|
|
Post by screwbolts on Apr 2, 2009 6:05:46 GMT -5
speaking of which, the ramrods are too flexible, Any suggestions? I thought of having a machinist put a piece of brass round stock to the existing ends IMHO, It makes no sense to have your favorite Machinest spend a lot of time attaching the current brass ends to a solid brass rod, at least to me it is not a very well thought out path to take  Why would you not ask your machinist to simply drill and tap both ends of a solid brass rod for 10x32 thread. That is if your only going to consider brass. I do have to admit that your idea would help stimulate the economy. It would allow the machinist to charge you more! ;D Ken |
|
|
|
Post by Tarheel on Apr 2, 2009 6:13:58 GMT -5
#1 the machinist is a friend and wouldn't charge me. and #2 I thought it would be easier brazing the existing ends to a piece of round stock than mill a jag on one end and tapping the other. I said machinist, I should have said welder. My buddy doesn't have a lathe. A few years ago he made some brass rods for the the old renegade muskets and they worked great. Thanks for the Info.
|
|
|
|
Post by screwbolts on Apr 2, 2009 6:20:41 GMT -5
Why not get a larger diamater brass rod if your going to take this path and have you friend knurl a Jag on one end your 1/2" rod then turn the remainder of the rod to a diamater that fits your thimble, then let him cut some sort of rings to the small end to afford you a better grip, possible knurl both ends. you could even have him install the the knurled jag on a tight press fit miniture bearing and have the jag free spinning. similar to a spinjag.
Ken
Ken
|
|
|
|
Post by Tarheel on Apr 2, 2009 6:22:03 GMT -5
good idea, the reason I like brass is the weight make it easier loading. Thanks for the tips screwbolts, my buddy doesn't have a milling machine or lathe to turn the round stock. I believe the factory ramrod is 3/8".
|
|
|
|
Post by screwbolts on Apr 2, 2009 6:30:25 GMT -5
Ok I have made several Ram rods out of wooden dowls for different guns, I have capped the rods with variouse size brass cartridges, a small pistol or SR primer pocket is the perfect size to drill threw and thread to 10x32.
IMHO, for a good ram rod, Take a look at the Brutus Denali ram rod that is available at Gun Parts Corp. for less than $8 it is a aluminum tube with Brass inserts. you can remove one end cut to length and JB weld the insert back in the rod for a light, stiff, rod. The inserts were installed by being very tight and then they Staked them in a groove machined into the insert. This rod is 23.5 inches long as it is, and is very similar to the Knight stock ram rods.
Ken
|
|
|
|
Post by Tarheel on Apr 2, 2009 6:33:11 GMT -5
OK Will do
|
|
