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Post by cumminscowboy on Mar 25, 2009 17:59:27 GMT -5
you guys that order these pacnor 45 barrels are these already threaded at the rear for a breach plug??? are they a drop in fit with barrel contour etc??
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Post by Dave W on Mar 25, 2009 18:14:00 GMT -5
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Post by chuck41 on Mar 25, 2009 19:49:24 GMT -5
you guys that order these pacnor 45 barrels are these already threaded at the rear for a breach plug??? are they a drop in fit with barrel contour etc?? Yep, pretty much. All I had to do was remove breech plug and stock, unscrew the barrel nut, unscrew barrel remove old barrel and replace with new, screw on barrel nut, replace breech plug and fine tune a bit to get "headspace" right, tighten barrel nut down replace stock and head for the range. A real quality product! |
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Post by rexxer on Mar 25, 2009 19:59:11 GMT -5
Chucks right on!!!
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Post by Deleted on Mar 25, 2009 20:17:04 GMT -5
not fired mine yet but its a quality piece without a doubt, they are fairly easy to install as well...Bill
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Post by Harley on Mar 25, 2009 22:09:57 GMT -5
The only thing Chuck left out is having to hit mine with a 3# hammer to loosen the nut; more than once. And that means some sort of jig to hold the action steady.
Harley
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Post by chuck41 on Mar 25, 2009 23:55:40 GMT -5
The only thing Chuck left out is having to hit mine with a 3# hammer to loosen the nut; more than once. And that means some sort of jig to hold the action steady. Harley Right on Harley. Big emphasis on "jig to hold the ACTION steady". A "barrel vice" is not the answer at all, at least not for me!! Anything that won't permanently damage the barrel will also not hold it tight enough to loosen that barrel nut. A couple blocks of wood to protect the action while fastened in a vice worked great and was a lot easier than the more complex "barrel vice" I built. |
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Post by Chris Champion on Mar 26, 2009 8:13:25 GMT -5
I had a little better luck removing mine. I had a 4"x4"x2" white oak block with a 1" hole drilled in the center and then cut the block in half. I wrapped the barrrel with duck tape and put the barrel in the blocks. I tightened a 6" bench vice down on the wooden blocks about 2" in front of the barrel nut. With the nut wrench at a 90* angle I held a short chunk of 2x4 in my left had and layed it on the wrench to pad the wrench. First couple of blows the barrel just spun in the blocks. So I cranked the vice down as tight as I could and then gave it 3 "everything-I-had" swings with a 22 oz framing hammer and broke it loose.
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Post by chuck41 on Mar 26, 2009 9:16:24 GMT -5
I did about the same as chris, but without the duck tape. Perhaps that is the key. I tried everything I could with the "Barrel vice" including a small sledge. Only succeeded in dinging up the barrel wrench. Put the action in the vice protected by a couple pine blocks, hit the barrel wrench once with a plastic mallet and it popped right loose. There is just too much slippage with a barrel vise, at least in the way I implemented it. Secure the action and it is a piece of cake.
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Post by sagittarius on Mar 26, 2009 9:35:30 GMT -5
Chuck, you're right on about the blocks ! I used some blocks of wood with a 3/4" hole ordered the same time as my Farrell base. I used the rosin the blocks came with to coat the inside surfaces holding the barrel, put them in a bench vise, cranked down on the blocks until they were pretty snug, then swung a heavy blow with a plastic dead blow hammer onto the Wheeler Savage barrel wrench. Worked like a charm; the barrel nut popped loose.  |
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Post by Richard on Mar 26, 2009 12:00:21 GMT -5
I think the thing that scares most is the fact you have to really "WACK" that wrench (with a piece of wood on it of course) like you intend to break it! ;D
Richard
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Post by smokeless77 on Mar 26, 2009 12:20:40 GMT -5
Try using the thin rubber jar and bottle openers between the blocks, they seem to grip the barrel good.
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Post by rbinar on Mar 26, 2009 14:43:52 GMT -5
8-)If you guys would get a 3 to 5 foot "cheater" pipe for the wrench you won't have to "whack" anything.
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Post by DBinNY on Mar 26, 2009 21:20:37 GMT -5
RB is right for sure. That's how we get miserably tight, rusted lug nuts off here in the land of snow and salt. A breaker bar and a nice piece of pipe are serious medicine.
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Post by sw on Mar 26, 2009 21:28:18 GMT -5
I have changed barrels on 8 different Savages(6 ML-2s and 2 CF Savages). I put the barrels in the barrel vice with a thin bit of cardboard(shoe box) to protect the finish of the barrel. I got the barrel very tightly held, had the barrel wrench at 9 0'clock and gave it a quick rap with a hammer. The nut loosened 1st time every time. Upon reinstalling a barrel, I used a small amt of "the stick" for a lubricant. Never damaged a barrel.
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Post by Richard on Mar 27, 2009 16:08:55 GMT -5
I think the reason for the "sharp wack" rather than the BIG OLE' cheater bare is this: The cheater bar would want to twist the barrel where as the "wack" would get the nut loose before the barrel starts to spin. Just my humble opinion!
Richard
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Post by sw on Mar 28, 2009 11:37:23 GMT -5
Richard,
I think the sharp, but not hard, wack stresses everything less. I hit it quick, not hard.
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Post by chuck41 on Mar 28, 2009 11:47:43 GMT -5
If you do it right, with both the action and barrel clamped in an appropriate vice the cheater is probably the better way to go. Slow and more controlled. Since I don't have the luxury of such a gunsmith's dream workplace I had an "either or" situation. I found the action vice plus a good whack worked for me.
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