contender grip pattern

[tnlwsn272]

Where can you get a pattern for a contender grip with finger grooves to cut out your own by? I would like to make a set instead of buying a set.

[Harley]

I have no idea where you might obtain a Contender grip pattern and don't think you'd be happy if you did find it. You are probably not looking for a one-size-fits-all; rather, you want a grip that fits your own hand. For that you either have to take measurements and send them to a custom grip maker (I have a name for you if you want it) or use your stock grips to cut a block to fit your pistol, then whittle, route and sand until it feels good to you.

I can post a picture of my own Contender G2 custom grips with finger indents to give you an idea how the finger indents are positioned.

Harley

[tnlwsn272]

Hi Harley, I looked around some and I see what you mean. My hands are short and thick and just any grip would not do. Who makes a good grip to fit? I know I am jumping around with questions but have you ever had a recoil problem with a barrel you liked? I have a 30-30 10" octagon barrel like new and the recoil kills me. I want to shoot heavier bullets and normal loads but the recoil is rough. I bought dies,brass,bullets and I would lose too much trading it so what can be done. What do you think of porting or is a muzzle break better? I am sorry to be so much trouble but I really love my contender. I have one of the last made before TC went to a G2.Thanks for any help!

[Harley]

It's midnight, time to call it a day, but I'll post a picture of my G2 30-30 with 14" barrel, tomorrow. You'll see an example of the custom grip work of Dr. Tony Gettle. He also does Contenders to your measurements.

www.tonysforendsandgrips.net/

Coincidentally, I just received this week my newly muzzle-braked (ported) barrel job. Porting and muzzle-braking can be the same thing or something different; i.e., you can add a muzzle brake to the end of a barrel or you can port the last inch of your existing barrel, which makes it a muzzle-braked barrel.

In my case, a year ago I tore my rotator cuff and the pistol subsequently hurt me every time I fired it. The muzzle brake cured that and I'm certain it would do the same for you. The down side is I lost 21% of my muzzle velocity (2145 fps down to 2100 fps) because of the porting. Your 10" barrel already doesn't deliver great muzzle velocities and it would lose, also, if you ported it.

Probably your best bet would be to add a true muzzle brake to the existing end of the barrel. I can give you a source for either option.

BTW, after years of being happy with the 130 grain bullets and a moderate load, last year I switched to 150 grain Nosler Ballistic Tips and a heavier powder charge. This has extended my range to roughly 300 yards; now that I've lost muzzle velocity, though, my maximum range for deer, if I want the Nosler to expand reliably (it needs a minimum of 1700 fps) is 235 yards. Still not shabby.

I shot the pistol after it was ported and my group was .644" at 100 yards.

I'd be happy to help with any other questions.

Harley

[tnlwsn272]

Thanks Harley, I would like to get a muzzle break and use heaver loads. Could you give the source for doing this? I was using 110grain round nose bullets but I feel thats kind of light for deer. In My hunting area I can get around a 100yard max shot. I wonder if I would have the velocity Nosler's at that range. Thanks for any help you can give.

[Harley]

Following are pictures of my G2, emphasizing Tony Gettle's grip and forearm, plus the porting of the barrel.








I'm looking for the link to the muzzle break installer; I'll post it in a follow-up.

Given your relatively short hunting distance and your short 10" barrel (besides less muzzle velocity that barrel exaggerates recoil) I wouldn't recommend the Ballistic Tip Nosler to you.

I've killed a half dozen or so deer with the following load, including a buck at 94 yards; the bullet completely penetrated both shoulders, anchoring him to the spot where he stood. This is a milder load than the Nosler and you should find it comfortable to shoot after muzzle-breaking the pistol.

Hornady bullet #3021 (130 gns)
CCI 200 primer (the CCI BR-2 is an even better choice)
H-335 powder - 36.0 gns (as always, start 10% lower and work up, watching for pressure signs)

I'll run some ballistic possibilities with your 10" barrel

[Harley]

Following is a link to David White's Email; tell him what you want for a muzzle brake or ask his advice by explaining your situation and he'll quote you a price.

dandtcustomgunworks.com/contactus.html


I've run a hypothetical ballistics program for your pistol with the Hornady bullet/load:

My un-braked 14" barrel generated 2250 fps muzzle velocity (MV). If we speculate conservatively that you will generate only 2100 fps (and I think that is too low), you will obtain 980 Ft.Lbs of energy at 100 yards. That would be my own minimum for shooting whitetail deer.

If you zero that 2100 fps load at 100 yards your point of impact (POI) will not vary more than .5" over the course of that 100 yards.

These break-open pistols have enough unique characteristics that you could write a book on them. In my last post I mentioned watching for pressure signs. Unlike bolt action firearms, your first sign of excessive pressure would be increased difficulty in breaking open the barrel after firing.

I don't know your level of expertise in hand loading or your knowledge of the requirements of the Contender; but, proper case preparation is the most important thing you can do, particularly headspacing. Too much headspace results in misfires; negative headspace means either a hard to close barrel or a barrel that won't close. We can talk about all of this any time.

If you contact either Dr. Tony Gettle or David White, I'd like to know what you learn. Thanks.

Harley

[tnlwsn272]

Hi Harley, I was offline yesterday all day with computer problems. Sometimes I would like to shoot old Dell computer! I have been debating on something and I have not decided what to do. I have a encore 223 heavy 26"blued barrel that has had around one box of Remington shells through it. It is scoped with a Bushnell 3x9 and in great shape and I did not even use it last season. I thought about swapping it for something that would be better for deer. I would like a 14inch barrel that would shoot at longer ranges. I really like your setup. I found a guy who does muzzle breaks that says he would do mine for $150. The name is Nawaka breaks and his name is Erric Wallace. I found him at www.brtradingfort.com thanks for all the help! I am going to study a little more on what to do!

[Harley]

Let us know what you decide....and good luck.

Harley

[bigryan]

Howdy yall this is Big Ryan from www.Brtradingfort.com and I can tell you that Eric Wallace is one of the best gun smiths in N. America. His muzzle brakes are just awesome, and you will not find a better brake for the $ anywhere. He used to install Ross Schulers brakes, but he started making his own brakes this yr. He does all kinds of custom work for bolt action rifles and pistols. I stake my name and reputation with Eric, as he is one of the good guys. Cheers, BR