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Post by sw on Jan 24, 2009 11:42:49 GMT -5
:)My 40 cal is on a std Tupperware Sav stock. It is 3rd pillared, bedded, and does well. It is SO ugly. It has 2 recoil reducers/Simms pad. I want to paint it camo. What paints and how? Preparation, paint brand(s), etc will be appreciated. The barrel is PacNor bright silver. I also want to either camo it or just paint it flat black. I'm considering flat black for a # of reasons, one of which is that I plan to ask Fred M to install a MB this spring and painting it black will be easy and it'll match. Fred Moreo painted my 22-250AK IMP with hi temp black paint which is very easy to touch up. Preparation suggestions for the barrel are also requested. Thanks.
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Post by Dave W on Jan 24, 2009 11:58:58 GMT -5
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Post by sw on Jan 24, 2009 12:19:12 GMT -5
Dave, this is just what I need. NOW, I remember seeing this but wasn't at the point of doing it yet. Thanks, Steve
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Post by dpoor65 on Jan 24, 2009 14:43:25 GMT -5
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Post by Savage Shooter on Jan 24, 2009 20:31:29 GMT -5
SW, I have been using the same paint and process with the Alumahyde for a couple of years also. This paint is dang near fool proof and TANK tough.
I have done some using the exact same process with branches/leaves. I have done some that I just walk across the road and gather a handful of pine boughs and just "fan" in one hand a spray thru with the other.
I have recently done a couple of guns that I "spider wedded". I use Krylon webbing in silver, gold, white or black depending on base color. When I "web" I finish the entire painting process in 1 application. I will paint the base color, then web and light coat with the Alumahyde Clear to "lock on" the webbing.
If you web and do it in one quick application you can be FINISHED in 30 minutes paint time (not counting metal degreasing, masking, hanging, etc.).
If you want to camo with the branch/leaf process you will need to let the base coat dry/cure for at least 7 days, depending on temps. So you can lay the "stencil" directly on the base coat as you paint.
This type of marine epoxy paint takes a long time to cure when below 75 degrees.
I do all my stock painting in the garage when I can let it hang in the heat for 7 days. Summertime is far best for this paint unless you have means to heat it to about 100 degrees in a paint oven.
You will want to wear a decent dust mask. And I lay newpaper on the floor about a 10 ft diameter or you will have a very sticky floor for a week.
Hope this not to confusing.
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Post by 12ptdroptine on Jan 24, 2009 22:38:15 GMT -5
Sure looks good.. How does it hold up to skin oils from the cheek and also from holding it with your hand..I have a strong acid problem with my skin.. I have to be real careful with my stuff.. Or it has fingerprints rusted to it. Sometime's overnight. Drop
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Post by pposey on Jan 25, 2009 10:59:50 GMT -5
Krylon Fusion works real well on the synthetic stocks,, sand the stock then spray
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Post by Savage Shooter on Jan 25, 2009 11:02:15 GMT -5
Sure looks good.. How does it hold up to skin oils from the cheek and also from holding it with your hand..I have a strong acid problem with my skin.. I have to be real careful with my stuff.. Or it has fingerprints rusted to it. Sometime's overnight. Drop I have not had any copper solvent even soften it. I have wiped it down with lacquer thinner to test toughness and it will not soften it either. Insect repellent will not soften it. Alumnahyde is the toughest finish I know of that you can spray from a can and let dry on its own.
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Post by chuck41 on Jan 25, 2009 18:36:19 GMT -5
Sounds like a good idea, SW. Mine is butt-ugly as well. I have some Plasti-Kote Flex Stone in Hunter Green that I think someone recommended on the old board about a year ago. Anyone tried this stuff?
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Post by dougedwards on Jan 25, 2009 19:29:31 GMT -5
I am sure this is common knowlege but I will say it anyway. The success of the Alumahyde application is the preparation of the surface to which it is applied. I am not sure about exactly how the tupperware surface should be prepared but I bet you that Brownells customer service could help.
For the barrel and action I hang them on coat hanger and place them in an oven. This brings any oils to the surface. Then I spray the surface with a degreaser and wipe down. I dry down with a hair dryer. The application of Alumahyde is best described in this video.
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Post by chuck41 on Jan 25, 2009 19:35:24 GMT -5
I am sure this is common knowlege but I will say it anyway. The success of the Alumahyde application is the preparation of the surface to which it is applied. . . . . . . . . . . . . For the barrel and action I hang them on coat hanger and place them in an oven. This brings any oils to the surface. Then I spray the surface with a degreaser and wipe down. . . . . . . . . Gee Doug, you must have a much larger oven than I have. You're house must be a double-wide or something.
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Post by chapmangleason on Jan 25, 2009 21:21:38 GMT -5
I am sure this is common knowlege but I will say it anyway. The success of the Alumahyde application is the preparation of the surface to which it is applied. . . . . . . . . . . . . For the barrel and action I hang them on coat hanger and place them in an oven. This brings any oils to the surface. Then I spray the surface with a degreaser and wipe down. . . . . . . . . Gee Doug, you must have a much larger oven than I have. You're house must be a double-wide or something. Uncle Jed has that double wide oven in his trailer Mr. Drysdale. :-> Chap
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Post by dougedwards on Jan 25, 2009 21:29:56 GMT -5
I am sure this is common knowlege but I will say it anyway. The success of the Alumahyde application is the preparation of the surface to which it is applied. . . . . . . . . . . . . For the barrel and action I hang them on coat hanger and place them in an oven. This brings any oils to the surface. Then I spray the surface with a degreaser and wipe down. . . . . . . . . Gee Doug, you must have a much larger oven than I have. You're house must be a double-wide or something. LOL....too funny Chuck. I said that I used a coat hanger.....not that I hung them in the oven with the whole coat hanger. Actually the wire of the hanger should also be degreased because oil on the wire from being handled could seep down from the hanger to the metal being painted. This sounds like a lot of trouble but it really isn't. Doing just a little bit extra can mean a big difference in the end result. Doug
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Post by sw on Jan 25, 2009 21:33:01 GMT -5
:)Thanks, I feel like I know what I need to do. You guys are a wealth of information. The members of this board are much like family.
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Post by thelefthand on Jan 26, 2009 19:37:57 GMT -5
I originally used the same process on my synthetic stock before I did the laminate. I rubbed it down with rubbing alcohol, and that was about it. I did NOT wait for my base coats to dry. Once I started painting, I kept going until I was done. If you are using AlumaHyde, and you stop, then I would wait a few weeks before I tried to go any further.
Mark
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