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Post by ourway77 on Mar 14, 2018 9:00:22 GMT -5
Would there be any advantage of having an Bergara muzzle loader barrel converted to direct ignition Has anyone done this and how do you like it
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Post by rambler on Mar 14, 2018 11:51:43 GMT -5
I have a DI system installed in a break open. Its a 45cal Douglas barrel that's mated to an H&R recvr. . I think it's far and away the best and most efficient ignition system available. The modules are easy to get in and out of the BP with fingers and last forever without clogging or deforming. I'm shooting a 275 grain bullet with 59gr of I4198 and getting mid 25's for speed. 6" low at 200yd. If you get this system you'll never need anything else. PM me if you need additional details.
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Post by 7mmfreak on Mar 14, 2018 19:59:29 GMT -5
I've had 209, Large Rifle in brass modules, and large rifle in steel (DI). DI is the best but they all work fine. I've currently gone back to all 209 because it works fine and is the easiest.
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so92
Button Buck
Posts: 10 
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Post by so92 on Mar 15, 2018 6:00:41 GMT -5
What is the advantage of doing this? Guess ive never had issues with 209’s so im curious
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Post by rambler on Mar 15, 2018 8:55:44 GMT -5
What is the advantage of doing this? Guess ive never had issues with 209’s so im curious The same advantage as using any LRMP system except it doesn't need a tungsten bushing, the modules last virtually forever and you can use about 7 to 10% less powder while getting the same FPS. It's a very robust system and practically never needs cleaning. Nothing wrong with the 209 set up, both my bolt and break open guns can use either. Plus I have never had a misfire with the ASG 209 set up I have and never had a sticky primer. Luke sent me his BP with instructions and I was good to go. DI system isn't for everyone, it has a niche popularity amongst the smokeless people, but I really like it. |
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Post by edge on Mar 15, 2018 9:45:02 GMT -5
When you load it, I assume you use a regular bolt without the vent hole in it, correct?
If not, and you use the fired DI bolt, how do you ensure that the powder in the vent hole stays in the rifle?
edge.
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Post by rambler on Mar 15, 2018 10:52:56 GMT -5
If your question is directed to my comment above I'm not sure I understand what you are referring to when you mention "regular bolt" or "fired DI bolt"??
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Post by edge on Mar 15, 2018 11:21:44 GMT -5
The DI uses a modified bolt for both the vent hole and the primer holder, correct?
Perhaps a 0.070 diameter hole drilled through as the vent/flash hole, and then bored to accept a LR primer.
It would seem that you have three choices for loading:
1) Load on your spent primer DI bolt;
2) Load on a dummy DI bolt without the vent/flash hole;
3) Load on a fresh primer DI bolt.
Where I live, I can't have a live primer in the gun for transportation purposes, so I would need to either fire of the gun, or replace the DI bolt with a dummy/used primer.
Now, assuming I replace and not shoot out, or load on a used primer it would seem that because the vent/flash hole is so large in diameter, I will probably lose powder during this replacement procedure...unless I have a way to prevent it.
My question is how do you prevent the loss of powder...or do you just shoot it out?
edge.
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Post by rambler on Mar 15, 2018 11:24:32 GMT -5
Personally, when hunting I shoot it at the end of the day if I will be transporting. Cost of doing business.
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Post by edge on Mar 15, 2018 11:27:35 GMT -5
Thanks, edge.
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Post by hemicuda on Mar 22, 2018 8:38:20 GMT -5
Having a blank plug would be easy enough, just don't pull the trigger with it in.
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Post by rambler on Mar 22, 2018 9:01:38 GMT -5
Some have voiced concerns that screwing a module in and out of a MZ that is loaded with powder could create a spark and set off a catastrophic explosion.
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Post by cvadave on Mar 22, 2018 12:29:18 GMT -5
With my DI plugs, I use a paper punch out to cover the end of the bolt, just the right size to be able to screw the bolt in or out and has not come off except when fired. I was told that I could do it that way, but did not need to. I chose to use the paper on the end of the bolt.
As far as hunting. I have 1 fired bolt that I use for transporting that the end is covered with the punch out, point the barrel downward, and switch bolts, no powder in breech plug screw hole. Use my fingers to install it into the BP and use a socket to tighten it down, same thing when removing, socket to break it loose then use my fingers to remove the spent bolt. Have tried different ways, and this seems to work for the Scout.
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Post by rambler on Mar 22, 2018 15:30:24 GMT -5
With my DI plugs, I use a paper punch out to cover the end of the bolt, just the right size to be able to screw the bolt in or out and has not come off except when fired. I was told that I could do it that way, but did not need to. I chose to use the paper on the end of the bolt. As far as hunting. I have 1 fired bolt that I use for transporting that the end is covered with the punch out, point the barrel downward, and switch bolts, no powder in breech plug screw hole. Use my fingers to install it into the BP and use a socket to tighten it down, same thing when removing, socket to break it loose then use my fingers to remove the spent bolt. Have tried different ways, and this seems to work for the Scout. Is this what you're talking about?  |
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Post by cvadave on Mar 22, 2018 15:44:49 GMT -5
Yes. But I like the paper punch better then using a 22 shell to draw the circle and cut them out.
Saw it laying there next to them.
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Post by rambler on Mar 22, 2018 16:13:13 GMT -5
Yes. But I like the paper punch better then using a 22 shell to draw the circle and cut them out. Saw it laying there next to them. That's a random live 22 round lying around waiting to be used on some verminous passer by...lol I use a paper punch too. What kind of paper do you use??  |
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Post by cvadave on Mar 22, 2018 17:28:34 GMT -5
What ever the bill company's use seems to work good for me, so I have plenty of paper each month.
LOL
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Post by edge on Mar 23, 2018 10:22:14 GMT -5
Do you use nitrated paper/ flash paper?
edge.
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Post by Dave W on Mar 23, 2018 13:45:12 GMT -5
Personally, only tried small notepad paper, not sure what everyone else has experimented with.
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Post by rambler on Mar 23, 2018 19:15:36 GMT -5
no
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Post by cvadave on Mar 23, 2018 19:53:48 GMT -5
Also no.
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Post by quillen52 on Mar 30, 2018 7:39:14 GMT -5
I assume the paper is either blown off or burned off when the gun is fired.
CVA Dave
Who did the plug conversion for your scout?
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Post by cvadave on Mar 30, 2018 12:55:30 GMT -5
I assume the paper is either blown off or burned off when the gun is fired. CVA Dave Who did the plug conversion for your scout? I assume the paper is burned off. A friend of Carlos did it for him, then Carlos sent it up for me to try. Maybe Steve will chime in about his set up. |
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Post by rambler on Mar 30, 2018 17:54:29 GMT -5
I assume the paper is either blown off or burned off when the gun is fired. CVA Dave Who did the plug conversion for your scout? I assume the paper is burned off. A friend of Carlos did it for him, then Carlos sent it up for me to try. Maybe Steve will chime in about his set up. If the dude would ask me I would, but he specifically asked for you....  |
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Post by billyboy on Mar 31, 2018 17:06:40 GMT -5
With my DI plugs, I use a paper punch out to cover the end of the bolt, just the right size to be able to screw the bolt in or out and has not come off except when fired. I was told that I could do it that way, but did not need to. I chose to use the paper on the end of the bolt. As far as hunting. I have 1 fired bolt that I use for transporting that the end is covered with the punch out, point the barrel downward, and switch bolts, no powder in breech plug screw hole. Use my fingers to install it into the BP and use a socket to tighten it down, same thing when removing, socket to break it loose then use my fingers to remove the spent bolt. Have tried different ways, and this seems to work for the Scout. Is this what you're talking about? Do you guys use the paper punches glued on the DI Module Screws every time you load the rifle or just when it is going Hunting & may be removed for transportation? I normally just load on a Dummy Screw painted Orange (No Vent Hole) then replace with Live DI Primer Screw. Does that much powder really migrate into the Flash Hole? Has anyone used Standard Large Rifle Primers in these, as powerful as this System is, sure seems like you could? |
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Post by cvadave on Mar 31, 2018 18:34:27 GMT -5
When I received my set up, I was told I could use the paper punch to cover the end, but was not needed, my choice. I chose to use it.
As far as primers for them, the 215 primers came with the setup and I use the same primers in my Module set up for My other sml guns.
You could try the 210 primers in them, but for me, I would rather stay with 1 primer.
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Post by Dave W on Apr 1, 2018 11:36:27 GMT -5
Is this what you're talking about? Do you guys use the paper punches glued on the DI Module Screws every time you load the rifle or just when it is going Hunting & may be removed for transportation? I normally just load on a Dummy Screw painted Orange (No Vent Hole) then replace with Live DI Primer Screw. Does that much powder really migrate into the Flash Hole? Has anyone used Standard Large Rifle Primers in these, as powerful as this System is, sure seems like you could? I have only shot a couple groups with the paper on the modules, they grouped worse than the regular modules for me but all that means is those certain loads worked better without the paper. Others have found better accuracy by using the paper. Depends which powder you use, the modules will hold more of a finer granuled powder. Little over a grain of H322, right at a grain of H4198 in mine. |
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Post by billyboy on Apr 1, 2018 12:25:39 GMT -5
Thanks for all the replies, one member suggested using cigarette rolling papers. Makes perfect sense, designed to burn! I sure like this DI System in the TC Encore. Haven’t got around to using it in the Rem 700 yet.
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Post by edge on Apr 2, 2018 8:15:55 GMT -5
Why not fill the DI screw with powder, then put the paper on top?
To me the great idea of the DI is to eliminate the long void between the primer and powder.
Without the paper, I would be surprised if the screw did not fill with powder during normal loading.
edge.
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