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Post by timgunner on Sept 15, 2015 12:08:11 GMT -5
Just curious what everyone uses for their barrel profile? Are you guys using custom tapers or standard sendero type barrel tapers? What's the best balance of weight versus capability? Do you get larger than normal tang sections?
Thanks for any feedback
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Post by rambler on Sept 15, 2015 12:23:35 GMT -5
From what I've gathered your question requires another question to be answered. Will you be using you gun for hunting or benchrest/target shooting.
It's my understanding that the standard sendaro 1.200@5" and so on is a good choice for hunting. Again this is my understanding and what i've been told and read on this board. Other more experienced builders may chime in for you..
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Post by timgunner on Sept 15, 2015 12:39:46 GMT -5
Yes the rifle would be for hunting. I have no desire to be punished by a rifle producing 5000 to 10,000 foot pounds of muzzle energy while sitting at a bench.
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Post by rangeball on Sept 15, 2015 16:12:59 GMT -5
Some prefer more full blank shank length before tapering to a heftier muzzle for the added security it might provide in the event of a double load.
Personally for appearance I prefer and use the sendero profile on my pacnor .45 rem 700ml conversion. I shoot the 310gr APB sabotless on top of 70gr of H4198 and feel safe.
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Post by kbrezlin on Sept 15, 2015 16:26:26 GMT -5
Both CF custom barrels I ordered were 45 cal. 1.25 for 5 inches then straight taper to 1 inch at the muzzle. One is 26 inches, the other is 28 inches. I also have a 10ML conversion that is 1.12 for 5 inches to 0.9 at the muzzle over 26 inches. I like the heavier barrel.
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oked
8 Pointer
Posts: 206
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Post by oked on Sept 16, 2015 2:39:50 GMT -5
I have used 2 sendero 45 cal. Pacnor barrels and they are a good choice for a hunting gun.both shoot better than I can.
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Post by rossman40 on Sept 16, 2015 12:35:35 GMT -5
IMO a #7 for a Savage is about the same contour as a Savage Varmint profile. But that contour in a Remy is pretty hefty so if your going to carry it the Sendaro is a better choice. I usually do not recommend fluting it.
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Post by timgunner on Sept 19, 2015 9:33:32 GMT -5
What's the reason for recommending against fluting? Is it too light creating more recoil or does it make the barrel too thin and unsafe? I know Shilen will not warranty a barrel that has been fluted because they say it can create added stress in the barrel and potentially hurt accuracy. What's your recomendation?
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Post by 7mmfreak on Sept 19, 2015 15:39:21 GMT -5
May be what you like the look of but has absolutely no real function.
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Post by rambler on Sept 19, 2015 16:47:36 GMT -5
What's the reason for recommending against fluting? Is it too light creating more recoil or does it make the barrel too thin and unsafe? I know Shilen will not warranty a barrel that has been fluted because they say it can create added stress in the barrel and potentially hurt accuracy. What's your recomendation? Fluting is fluff. But if your gonna put a nice walnut stock on it and hang it over the mantle it makes a great conversation piece.....just kidding.....  |
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Post by rossman40 on Sept 24, 2015 23:03:25 GMT -5
Fluting serves to reduce weight, improve cooling, or look cool. The weight savings isn't that great. Yes it can increase surface area when done right for improved cooling. And yes it can look cool, then there are guys doing it going overboard IMO. They do not think about safety factors or barrel harmonics, it has to look cool
A lot of stress is imparted to the barrel when rifled with a button. If not properly stress relived after contouring and then you flute it you could have isssues. Cut rifling does not stress the barrel so if you want to cut on it afterwards go ahead.
I really do not like Pacnor's fluting.. The depth, or should I say base circle of the fluting, remains the same from the muzzle end then back towards the breech, so the flute is extremely deep at the rear. If you measure the depth at the rear it is a bit scary. Then when it is on a Sendaro contour it is real scary. It's right in front of the peak pressure point.
The type of fluting I like is what is on the Blaser R93 Tactical. 1/8" wide and 1/8" deep, big increase in the surface area for cooling. For my dream fluting job, I was going to start with a 1.35" diameter barrel with 24 1/16" wide and 1/16" deep flutes then as the barrel tapers drop to 12 flutes and then drop to 6. The quote I got to have that done on a 5-axis CNC mill cost way more then the barrel.
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Post by edge on Sept 25, 2015 7:36:10 GMT -5
What's the reason for recommending against fluting? SNIP. IMO, fluting is done on a heavier contour for a few reasons...looks cool, reduces weight, and adds cooling. Except for the cool factor, it is the heavier contour that allows it. You can't take a "minimum" contour and flute it or you would be under your safety margin! Don't get me wrong, a minimum contour does not mean if you go a little higher you flirt with disaster, but you eat into your safety margin. A rifle designed for a 65kpsi load doesn't blow up at 66kpsi, but is probably safe to close to 100kpsi but then there is no room for any issues regarding heat treat or non homogeneous metal, or poor surface finish. Cracks almost always start at an imperfection, a stress riser. On the ID of the barrel you have lands and grooves ( sharp edges or stress risers ) now on the outside you reduce the thickness of a marginal barrel by adding more grooves. edge. |
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