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Post by miketodd58 on Jan 18, 2015 22:29:19 GMT -5
i bought a VXR 3x9 Firedot with the .30mm tube.
I did not have time to totally play with the system as hunting season was rapidly approaching . So I sighted it dead nuts at 100 yards . Luckily all,of my shots were close this season as I was set up mainly for bow hunting.
Fast forward to today. Shot it at 100 yards and decide to play with the dial. 3min is equal to 12 clicks. It only brought it up 2 inches at 100 yards with a 100 yard zero.
pronlem I am facing is I can only go up to 6min on the dial which is 22 clicks and then I top out. Dial,will not move past there.
i wanted to get a CDS custom dial for my load but if all I have is 22 clicks available to me what's the point? 22clicks or 6min is only going to get me about 5.5 inches of elevation change. Give or take.
so am I wasting my time and money with this scope? I really did not want a 2inch holdover at 100 yards but could do it if neccesary.
BTW my load is .50 cal MMP Orange with 300 Gr Sierra .458 bullets. 100 GR BH209 by volume.
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Post by bestill on Jan 18, 2015 22:40:48 GMT -5
What gun is this on? Can you install a 20moa base to gain elevation adj.
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Post by miketodd58 on Jan 18, 2015 22:50:52 GMT -5
What gun is this on? Can you install a 20moa base to gain elevation adj. No. It's on a CVA Optima V2 with Medium 30MM DNZ ring/base. |
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Post by miketodd58 on Jan 18, 2015 23:05:18 GMT -5
I'm tried several loads out on this gun and they all shoot as good as I can shoot them . Very marginal shifts in POI. I feel like I could drop any load down its barrel and go hunting with it.
I would like to wring out this CDS system and get dead nuts with it up to 200 yards which is my self imposed upper limits.
Before I installed the CDS scope I had a VX1 on it. Sighted it in 3 inches above zero at 100 yards. I was pretty much dead nuts at 150 and about 5 inches low at 200.
I could go back to that but would really like to have a dead on zero at 100 yards. I'm thinking the dead on zero at 100 yards would be better for dispatching smaller game such as Beaver or bobcats.
I also want to hunt wild boar and would rather head shoot them than connect for a heart lung shot. The thought of tracking a wounded hog at night does not do it for me, I would rather pop and drop the piggie right there.
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Post by ratsnakeboogy on Jan 18, 2015 23:16:30 GMT -5
I believe Ron Laughlin runs some CDS dials on his stuff. He mostly posts on the modern section below this one. See if you can give him a shout.
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Post by dirtboy on Jan 19, 2015 11:37:48 GMT -5
I have a vx-3 3x9 mounted on a 45 cal rem pac. Im shooting 40 cal sst with hlb sabot and 61 grains 4198. I zeroed at 100 yards and I have adjustments up to 400 yards with my custom dial. I have shot one shot at 200 yards and one shot at 270 yards at paper and they were a 1/2 inch low. I hope to have more time to play with it at long distances.
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Post by 7mmfreak on Jan 19, 2015 18:48:12 GMT -5
I'll preface with the fact I have no experience with the CDS. I do have a lot of experience with dials though. Depending on design, you can remove your dial cap and add more adjustment then replace your dial cap. If that does not work, since you have a uni-mount, you are going to have to shim and bed your base or have it re-machined to become an offset base (10, 20, 30 MOA or whatever you need) to get back to center of adjustment.
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Post by miketodd58 on Jan 20, 2015 16:24:07 GMT -5
Finally was able to get in touch with Leupold. After being number 29th in the cue. God the people at Leupold are the best at customer service. I will never buy any other scope ever.
The first person I talked to knew exactly how to address my problem. Knew what I was saying and knew the solution.
His solution was pretty much what 7mm freak and Ron suggested. Shim the base up at the rear the thickness of a beer can. He said that should get me another 20 MOA.
Then he asked if I was ready for my FREE CDS dial. All he needed was the serial number and my load data and environment conditions and he would get my free one out.
I paid $425 NIB for this scope last year. They have gone up to about $499. VERY MUCH WORTH the price I paid.
Im thinking about getting another one. PErhaps the HOG scope?
The Firedot was fun to play with this season. I think for most deer hunting situations its not going to be a must need as even on its lowest setting its still pretty bright right at legal shooting hours. I think it will really shine on dark coloured game such as Hog and Black Bear.
I did experiment around with a Green Flash light and found that it makes a really cool poor mans night vision scope.
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Post by rickster on Jan 21, 2015 17:40:22 GMT -5
You are on the right track with the shim. I shoot competitively with .22 rim fire out to 200 meters which requires a lot of vertical moa adjustment. Most all of use either use the shim method if running a rail or another common method is using the Burris Z rings with a combination of the offset inserts. I am just now putting together a Savage model 93 target rifle that came with a straight rail. I fabricated an .020 shim out of brass that has worked out very well. Being a .22 receiver it is small so the curve of the action is severe and the surface area under the rail is fairly small as well. That said the shim had to have a pretty significant "roll" to it and working with brass made that easier to deal with. One thing you might want to keep in mind is that although the more you "tip" the scope the more vertical travel you will have, the down side is that if you end up looking through the extreme out edge of the scope it will somewhat diminish the quality of the optic you are using. The fact that you are using a Leupold helps but can hurt to as Leupolds are know for having a tendency to be darker or diminished on the outer edge. Supposedly this is by design in the way they grind their glass to provide optimum clarity in the middle of the glass, where you are using it and giving up some on the edge. At 200 meters for us it is a non-factor, but it might be for you. I am not saying don't do it, I am saying perhaps don't OVER do it and build just enough shim to get you where you want to be. In our case we zero at 50 meters and shoot out to 200 meters (200 yds) and with low velocity (1080fps loads) we need a lot of room to dial.
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Post by miketodd58 on Jan 21, 2015 21:54:38 GMT -5
I've given a lot of thought to this.
I can dial up 3min which is about 2.5 inches over my zero at 100 yards.
With that zero I can hold just a tad high at 150 and about at the spine for a 200 yard shot.
gonna have to prove that theory on the bench but it seems like that is about right. As well as its shooing and the fact I have a good solid zero plus what you said about the looking through the center of the scope. I just don't think I am going to mess with something that is not broke.
i have a savage MLII that I am thinking about buying the same scope and putting a .20 base on and using that for a true dial in long range set up.
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Post by 7mmfreak on Jan 22, 2015 5:04:07 GMT -5
I don't think that shimming your base is going to give you issues with your optic. If you have it mounted low enough to maintain a good cheek-weld then shimming up .020-.030" is not going to cause you any issues; there are a lot of 20-30MOA bases on long range guns. I would be far more concerned with dialing on any elevation when I am already at the extreme end of my useable range of adjustment. I would want to get back as close to center as possible and have my optic working the way it is supposed to.
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