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Post by Richard on Apr 8, 2009 15:46:01 GMT -5
Interesting note from a friend that I thought the board members might find useful.
Happy knuckle busting.
Richard Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.
*They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.* **
*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*
None ..................... 516 pounds WD-40 .................. 238 pounds PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds
*The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone.* *Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. * ** *Your experience may vary, etc., etc.*
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Post by 12ptdroptine on Apr 8, 2009 17:35:46 GMT -5
The acetone art mix looks interesting .. We used to mix oil with trichlorothane111 years ago because it was a good vehicle to carry the oil into places and it evaporated very quickly. But your mixture is more readily available. Drop
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Post by Al on Apr 9, 2009 3:10:36 GMT -5
Richard, what all was in that "Ed's Red"?
Wasn't it suppose to work as a bore cleaner and a gun lube?
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Post by Richard on Apr 13, 2009 16:44:59 GMT -5
Al: Don't remember, its been a while since I heard that witches brew mentioned. I think it contained automatic tranny fluid plus who knows what! Richard
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Post by whyohe on Apr 13, 2009 17:48:39 GMT -5
richard , do you need a type of meatal can to use or what do you use to apply your home brew? would it eat plastic?
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Post by Richard on Apr 13, 2009 18:02:07 GMT -5
Please note: This is not MY home brew, it was sent by a friend and tested by the Home Machinist (a magazine for machinists). Acetone will effect certain types of plastics though not all. I guess you would have to test it? probably a metal oil can would be the safest. Richard
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Post by whyohe on Apr 13, 2009 18:09:32 GMT -5
i just wonder if it is in an pump type oil can if it will evaporate? what did you use to apply it and how much compaired to the others. as a auto mech, i have used plain ATF in lock cyl to free them up and lube them.
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Post by Richard on Apr 14, 2009 16:41:58 GMT -5
To be perfectly honest, I have never used it ;D It sounds like it would work, but at this point in time, I have numerous cans of W-D 40 on the shelf along with Liquid Wrench and a host of other penetrating lubricants. And, I don't deal in much rusty stuff like I did years ago when I was actively doing autobody and mechanic work. It just sounded good so I thought I would share the info. Richard
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Post by Harley on Apr 14, 2009 18:18:11 GMT -5
Richard, I just LOVE stuff like this! I'm with whyohe, though, in wondering how to store/dispense it.
Harley
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Post by whyohe on Apr 16, 2009 5:51:39 GMT -5
thanks richard, i do appriciate the information. i had thought you might have used it or even made some. i guess when i get the time i'll have to give it a try.
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Post by surveyor on Apr 18, 2009 18:24:48 GMT -5
Thank You! I've got 20 very rusted bolts and nut on a mower deck I'm changing out the hardware to a new deck. I'll put that ATF-Acetone mix to good use next week.
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Post by surveyor on Apr 20, 2009 19:11:47 GMT -5
I mixed some of the stuff up today, and it does work very well. If there's a head on the bolt left! LOL!
Thanks for the tip!
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